RWG Technical

Well I hope that you do continue to participate on the forum. There have been and will continue to be many who only come here to take what they can, and once they have it, they go away... You do have a challenge ahead of you with this one, especially as a first project. Can't wait to see the follow up. RG

I honestly don't remember this one, but am glad I fixed it for you. Your welcome. RG

Interesting...my guess is that someone cut and pasted the Wiki section describing how to do this, you got what you wanted without contributing or participating in this forum, and now your gone to where you came from. Certainly the answers you got here don't contain enough info to help you out... If someone did this, then that's not good news for RWG and I think underhanded. RG

The ETA could have this problem, but I have not seen it on any ETA 7750's, it's an assembly quality issue with the Asian model. RG

It may be more economical to simply pay someone to assemble the watch for you. Assembling this watch from scratch, having to grind down pinions, cutting and fitting the stem, crystal install, casing, etc... is a lot for someone to take on who has no knowledge of watchsmithing. If you can't sort out where the dial feet go on the movement, maybe your in over your head. It's great to want to learn to do watch stuff on your own, but I think for a first project, your taking on far too much, and asking members to walk you through each and every process and procedure to get this job done, is a daunting task. It's also nice to have new members support the forum, vs only coming here to get the information they can't get at other forums and then disapearing. As rmcsherry just pointed out, the holes for the dial are there. RG

You can probably find an identical asian movement to replace the one in there, but chances are it will be the same quality as what you have in the watch... Finding one is not easy though, but I see a number of DG movements on various suppliers sites lately, probably one of them is the same??? I don't know for sure. There are few options for replacing this movement, the hands only fit asian models, so your limited. If you didn't want or need the GMT function, the Miyota 8215 may be an option, but you would have to measure your hands to see if they are the same, and actually test fit the Miyota to see if it would work. If the Miyota did fit, you would have a reliable watch and no running issues. RG

What I want you to do, is to test the click on the reversing wheel by handwinding it. Normally when this click is not working, as you wind it, the rotor will start to spin, until the mainspring click engages into a new tooth on the gear. Wind very slowly, and see what happens... Sorry I wasn't clear in the first post. Let me know...

I think your reversing wheel click spring is not working. Many of them are defective, I see it all the time. The reversing wheel isolates the rotor from the mainspring, and the click is what prevents the mainspring from feeding back into the rotor. A simple test is with the watch flat in your palm, wind it slowly, if you feel the rotor spinning, your reversing wheel click is not working. The watch will still run, and will sort of wind automatically, but you will have very low power reverve. The good news is that the click is easy to access and fix. The bad news is that accessing it requires taking the autowinder bridge off the movement, and assembling this part is quite difficult. RG

The keyless works clutch gear has been dislocated from the clutch lever. This happened when the stem was reinstalled and is easy to do, even if your careful. Basically the square boss on the stem doesn't go into the cooresponding square boss on the clutch gear, and as a result the clutch gear gets pushed out of location when you inserted the stem... Turning the stem while inserting it is mandatory (to make sure the squares line up) and going slow is also mandatory. Happens to me all the time, so your not alone. The only fix is to disassemble the keyless works and put the parts and pieces back in their correct locations. If you have never done this, it's not a simple task as the keyless works is quite complex. The ETA datasheets can be had here, they are a big help. https://secure.eta.ch/CSP/DesktopDefault.as...=3&tabid=28 RG

Fantastic reference post, thanks for taking all the time to do this up for us. Great job! RG

I think it's just waiting to be processed. Don't forget, it was just christmas, the bussiest time of the year for packages and shipping...everything is back logged. I think it will show up at your door. RG

Thank you so much, GREAT reference site. RG

Everything goes through customs, that is normal. I wouldn't worry just yet "temporary deposit" means it's sitting waiting to be processed by customs. RG

I'll second what chief said, no reason to have the bezel off to pop the crystal out. But, since it's now removed, there could be a number of issues causing your problems. 1. Some of these bezels get bent when you pop them off - check that it's flat 2. The force of removal can damage the notch in the bezel or the case where the spring sits, check it throughly to make sure it's not damaged, any damage dress it out. 3. Test fit the bezel on the case, make sure it's sitting flush all around with the case 4. After all of this, insert the spring in the bezel, then were the two ends of the bezel spring meet, insert this end over the case first angling this end down and pressing it down, then work your way around pressing on each side and it should pop into place. 5. With the bezel removed, it's worth removing the insert as this can allow you to push the spring past the case and make installation easier. Not sure how clear this is, but this is how I do it, on some you can use the crystal press and they pop right in place, on others you have to work them on slowly. RG

Wow, thanks for the wonderful feedback everyone, it's very much appreciated. It makes the time and effort of doing up the pictures worth it. @swdivad There is a machine sold by RC Tritec for applying lume, it's about $2K and after reading up on it, not really practical for my application. It designed more for continous applications in an industrial setting. @rckh I'll take some lume shots tonight, they don't glow very much, which is correct for Tritium. RG

These 024 dials are a real challenge to lume, especially when the buckets are all removed, and I have to lume the dots and make them round by hand. Both of these are Tritium dials, so here are my results: Close up of the PR And now the challenging 024, with the buckets gone, it's very tedious to get the circles round...I think it turned out fine. Pearl was also lumed to match the rest...and note the Genuine Crowns on both of these watches... PR cased. The owner is traveling so this is for his benefit as well...you'll have them back soon... Thanks for looking. RG

There is a complete and detailed tutorial of this procedure in the Wiki section, but you have to be a supporter to access it. RG

I just checked my Tudor 7750 (reworked ETA 7750) and it changes the minute starting at 59+ seconds and swings the hand to 1 minute more at +02 seconds. It's all due to the location of the small lever on the center seconds gear, the Asian ones all seem to be slightly to far forward and switch it over too soon... RG

They look wonderful. Anyone who offers a service, wants to have customers like yourself, it's always a pleasure. RG

Yes, No. It's a design issue. RG

That is very bizzare... A datewheel is no where near 5.05 or 6.05 mm (if that is the measurement). Sounds like they are mixing up datewheel with hour or cannon pins, which are ordered by height. I double checked the ETA datasheets, ain't nothing about heights for datewheels... I'd be curious as to what they say. RG

There is no variations in height for datewheels...BUT, I did have a 2824 in house, that I couldn't get a datewheel to fit. I can't remember if it was a flat datewheel that it needed, or the one with the raised section, either way, there are two styles of datewheels for the 2824, flat or with a raised section. The same thing was happening with the replacement datewheels for the 2892 series, some were flat others were raised, and I kept getting the wrong versions for the wrong watch... You should take yours apart, check which type you have, and order it. It won't be available in 6 versions, but probably in two versions. I think the difference is from the age of the movement and at some point they changed them. RG

The movement was still running strong when I left the house this morning... RG

Great review and beautiful watch. I have one as well, but it's at home so I am not sure what exact version I've got. I love the Speedy, my all time favorite watch, maybe some day, I'll have a gen. Thanks for the great post. RG

With the subdial hands being of such poor quality on so many watches lately, I chose to use a method that would require the least amount of handling and stress on the hands, and achieve the same results - have the hands stay in place on the movement. While using epoxy may not be the "right" way, it does what is required and doesn't risk the tube breaking away from the hand from handling and compressing the tube, and maybe having to broach it. I have had numerous tubes break away from subdial hands from removal alone...and replacing the 0.17mm tube with a new one, is no fun... RG