r11co

There is no question here. The best Breitling rep will beat the best Daytona rep for one reason and one only - the authenticity of the movement.

This is at least the third thread on this subject, and I will say again what I said in the first two - fugly! Thank goodness they didn't give this treatment to a Planet Ocean....

The latest reps of the power reserve models come with an Asian movement that is a derivative of the 2892. The rotors have an applique that looks awfully like the Panny engraving. You might be able to get one of those to fit?

There is an easier answer - it's called the 'Lo-Fi Version' and it is down there.

It's got the Sub rep pearl. Did you do that swap yourself?? It's not the worst I have seen by a long stick. Substitute that bezel insert for a stainless one with black print and you'd have a passable copy of this...

Hear here!

NO, not at all. Keep everything you've learned and add this little nugget... The reason the crown guards were wrong on many Sub reps is because they used GMT style cases. The fat CG's are correct for these models.

I've got one of Andrew's black ones with a rubber strap on the way. From these pics I think it looks incredible for the money (less than half that's being asked for the ETA ones that still ain't bang-on!) The only thing I have picked up on with the Asia model is the date window being set slightly closer to the dial centre. I'm not in the slightest worried about the He valve placement. I've got one of the 'best' 2824 mvt. blue SMPs and I showed it to a friend who has a gen quartz blue SMP. He handled my watch for several minutes and never once suspected it was anything but genuine. He spotted the smaller date window, but this is positioned differently on genuine quartz and auto mvt. versions, and the deeper case back, but he just put it down to mine being an auto!! PS. I am assuming that the Asia movement used in these is the latest 21J offering. If so then I am delighted as I have two other watches using that movement and they are the first reps I have owned that I have no inclination to regulate as they have been +/-5 seconds accurate a day - something I have never been able to say about my ETA reps.... PS. Have you tried pressing the pearl on Andrew's flush with the bezel? This was a common 'fix' on the blue SMPs.....

Not quite an urban myth. There have been two excellent versions of the SMP in the past - a slightly inferior version of the second is still available. The first 'really excellent' one available 12-18 months ago was the 007 variant with a (replica as it turned out) 2892 movement and correct He valve placement. The use of the 2892 movement meant the caseback could be as shallow as the genuine article (which used a Calibre 1120 movement which is based on the 2892 and is 1mm tinner than the ubiquitous 2824/2836). Its major flaws were the 'Seanaster' print on the dial, incorrect model and serial number engravings on the back and a pearl that was too raised. Substituting a genuine face and bezel insert gives you a 99% visually accurate replica. The second 'excellent' one was the standard SMP available 6-8 months ago. Using the 2824 movement meant the case back was a little too deep, but the dial print and hour markers on this model were 100% accurate. Major flaw was the He valve placement (which was actually correct for a chronograph version of this watch whch presumably they were intending to produce). Minor flaws were a date window that was a fraction too small, and for some reason they all came with a misaligned bezel insert. (A 007 version of this watch was also available, although still calling itself a Seanaster and having the wrong font used in its dial printing). Both are now sought after, especially the former. The currently avialable ETA movement blue SMPs are derivatives of the second one. For some reason they have been 'cheapened' by the use of single piece end links for the bracelet (as opposed to a composite 5-piece end link as per good reps and the real thing) and the substitution of a Rolex Submariner rep pearl which is way too big for the Omega. Also, the dial print has gone oversized. There is also now a GMT version of this one with modified 2836, which actually has a VERY accurate dial and the correct sized date window, although the other flaws are still present. The black version seem to have been more variable, with problems such as crown guards that were too big, misaligned bezel inserts and incorrect fonts used on the dial print. There has however been an excellent Asian movement black SMP with correct He valve placement. Only minor flaw was short hands.

The GMT with the 'Pepsi' bezel recreated in ruby and sapphire is comical. Almost a parody!!

I'll let you away with that HighDef, but only because you have a cute avatar..

Is that it?! Nice machines though. BTW, I've been 'cross platform' for 20 years. Helps in my line of work. You probably picked the best and worst time in Mac history to do the switch though.....

Oh, and I found this picture of you and John from your last 'visit home'. Hmm, now I know why he has an affinity for Duck Bay...

I agree. Fugly. Expect even fuglier reps in the near future.

I thought Bennets was closed (oops...)

Out of all the mods I'd have to say the gen crown/tube and gen clasp (or at least clasp spring) are the most worthwhile as they are the weakest parts of these reps.

Hmmm! Interesting - I just noticed that the date quick-set pusher on this model is actually operated using a part of the spacer ring! Oh, and mine has the '45 hour' power reserve too, but I am living with it. The hand does not go over the area of the power reserve meter (even if it does go over the 40 marker) and 'fixing' it is just going to cause problems at the other end (-5 power reserve!!!)

Super glue is far too runny for this sort of project. Either use the gel applied with a pin or fast setting epoxy.

Gen parts for the PO at affordable prices are still thin on the ground, compared to other Seamasters. It is still too new on the market.

Utterly brilliant. That's made my day!

You've obviously not been paying attention. The Planet Ocean is only one of his watches

Why is everyone suddenly noticing the He valve placement on the chronographs is lower? That new 007 special is fugly too, but re-assuring as it means the movies will be featuring a standard faced model for a little while to come (I mean, what secret agent wears a watch with his ID number on it for all to see???) Repping it should be a doddle (a simple face swap for the current 'best' 2824 model), but I expect several generations of dross to appear first. Cynical?? Moi?

It's really easy. See one you like and then find out its number...

It was inevitable. 7750 based movement (interesting!!), and I'll bet the He valve lines up perfectly with the 10 o'clock marker....