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Posts posted by DVNE
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On 3/5/2016 at 0:16 AM, jackflash said:
You'll find it here (Ofrei crystal PA 462-66):
http://www.ofrei.com/page419.htmlNo problems fitting this with the retainer? I t ried a crystal swap on my mines and the crystal cracked. Not sure if it was this same one or the 30.48mm. It was from Ofrei too. I gotta go back and pick up another like yours if it fits with no problem
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Congrats on building a keeper!!!!
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If you do decide on a 16610, they are the best out of the box. You can buy it and just wear it without worrying about "tells".
99.99% of the people you will come across will not know it is a replica (nor they will care).
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Just get the TC and wait. Its worth it. Trust me... If you are interested in second best then just get whatever from the td's.
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How can one hollow out a dial? Are you offering this as a piece to sell? I'd definitely be interested in the future
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Athaya 702 tube will screw right into the latest cartel case with no mods. The Athaya 702 clutch spring sucks. It will fail. I bought about 5 of them and they all crapped out. They look nice though.
The good thing is if you ever get a gen 702, the athaya tube is great!
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Then youll need a 2824 with a high cannon pin like TC's
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6 hours ago, zlwelch3 said:
Thanks for your help! I found a nice 2879, will that go in my cartel case okay?
It sure will. They use the same hand size as 2824/2836
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For the 21j's I have always removed the stem in the winding setting and I haven't buggered a keyless yet. Although I may just be lucky.
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Swap the crown for a 702, replace the dial with a yuki at least and enlarge lug holes and engrave caseback. Leave the insert but swap pearl out with a yuki or ofrei pearl. Thats what id do
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You can use a eta 2846, 2879, 2836 or a 2834 (with the day wheel and plastic ring removed).
If you wanna reuse your original dial you'll have to cut the feet and use dial dots.
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Looks damn good to me. I would have had RA relume the hand so the lume isn't as leveled with the hand surface but other than that, she looks great. Looks fresh from a RSC service.
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Like I told you on RWI, you can switch out a 2836 with a 2846. Direct swap... The dial, hands and datewheel transfer over.
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Trim the outer CG's and it is finished
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47 minutes ago, civic4982 said:
Thank you Ronin 007! Will check those out.
Looks like needs to be drilled .Sending to a buddy to help. Just wanna wear it as is for aw hile. upgrade over the next months or year.
https://www.topspecus.com/shop/genuine-replacement-marathon-stainless-steel-spring-bars/
These will fit and look the part until you get it drilled out.
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Yup. You have to cut the feet off and use dial dots to the movement or movement ring. The good thing is you don't have to worry about centering the datewheel and aligning it. It's already done for you. If you don't feel up tot he task, contact mymanmatt or a reputable forum modder that can assemble it for you.
Key thing to remember is make sure the dial is secured to the movement ring/movement AND there is enough clearance for the datewheel to rotate without contact to the back of the dial.
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If the MBW base you are using is a 1680 then it would have a datewheel overlay that would need a Rolex spec date window. It wouldn't be compatible with the Yuki ETA datewindow.
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What a [censored]. Karma is a mofo...
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Get the 1680 dial for the Rolex movement. The one for ETA uses ETA date window location. Not so true to gen...
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Even with the holes in the print it looks great. Can't wait to see it in your modded cases
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asketh and you shall receiveth..
Indices look too far from the chapter ring and seconds tick marks IMO...
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I agree.
I haven't seen a decent one without major flaws. The TC LV is worth the price.
JMB '1016' case vs a genspec dial...
in The Rolex Area
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It replaces the dial spacer. On a no date dial and with a little bit of sanding clearance should suffice. On a date dial, you'd have to make a hole in the center of the dial to clear the datewheel overlay leaving basically a ring with dial feet.