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Everything posted by jerkstore
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I wrote a tutorial that you might find helpful: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/158976-diy-how-to-make-a-frankenjust/ Good luck!
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I'm having a hard time finding dial size information for some reason... Does anybody know if a dial meant for a 15000 midsize case will fit in a ref 1500? Ever try it? Also, the ETA 2824-2 seems to be everybody's go-to for the 1500, but can anybody recommend a slow-beat? Even--heresy, I know--a Chinese movement? I think the original movement in the case beat < 8 times/sec. Thanks!
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I would love a better dial & crystal... But where to find a 29mm non-"Date" dial? I think PolexPete had one custom repainted by Michael Young, so that might be an option.
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I just finished building this 1675: Ingredients: Silix old-style 16750(ish) case, reworked Clark's aftermarket 25-116 crystal, shaved to gen spec height and installed with UV lamp/glue Cartel 1675 "1:1" dial, lightly aged Hands aged and re-lumed with vintage patina Base bezel insert, faded _____________________ Even though it has a wire-type bezel construction, I chose to mod this Silix case because it's got the right thinness compared to my gen 1675. Plus it's a little cheaper than the Josh 1655 and the Cartel "1:1" As my first real vintagizing attempt of a full watch, I thought it would be better to start with something I wouldn't be too [censored] about completely screwing up. The donor watch comes with a really annoying dial. The 1675 did not carry a movement with quickset date function--although the later model 16750 did. To set the date, you had to do it the old-fashioned way: winding the hands around and around and around. So, the 1675 dial simply read "Oyster Perpetual". Even when Rolex intoduced the quickset date feature to the 16750's, along with the "Oyster Perpetual Date" label, they did it on a glossy dial with metal markers. So, a matte dial that reads "Date" kind of doesn't fit anywhere--certainly not in a 1675. Even though it is also flawed, for that reason I chose to put a Cartel dial in the Silix case. The original dial is the standard 29mm width, but the 28mm cartel fits OK. A gen spec 26.5mm dial would fall right through the rehaut opening. As for the cartel dial, for some reason the makers chose to stop the minute markers short, before the edge of the dial. If they had just continued them... Oh well, it's still a rep, right? In any case, I have a gen 1675 (that's badly in need of a service). I used it as a model for the case reshaping and as inspiration, along with all the detailed posts that Rolex Addict has made on the subject. Using lots of sandpaper and my new dremel, I spent probably too much time slimming down the lugs, reshaping the crownguards, and adding a beveled edge to the outside edges of the case. I couldn't get the crownguards perfect because (1) they're too stubby, (2) too thin, and (3) they slope down at the top quite abruptly, unlike the gen. Also, (4) I'm new to this. The crown on the gen is also noticeably smaller than my 6mm rep crown. My goal was to vintagize the dial and hands as close to my gen as possible: aged, but not like they were found around the wrist of a dinosaur skeleton. I aged the dial markers using my patented worcestershire sauce/oven treatment. I also had a couple glasses of a nice Rioja to keep me company. To reduce the sheen of the dial, I mixed some cocoa powder with water and dabbed it on the dial face. The bezel construction on the SIlix case is a very reppy wire framework. However, you can fit the 25-116 cyclops with some heavy sanding. I tried to get it as close as possible to gen height. One tip: bezel fading goes faster than you think it will. In my case, less than one minute sitting in bleach got me to a nice shade of powder blue. I was not happy at first, but it grew on me. After looking at gen pics of pepsi 1675's, I'm actually really pleased with it. After spending all that time putting this thing together, I'm going to give it away as a gift! I have a jubilee bracelet soaking in oil right now, and it will be friends with my build real soon. But for now I just have a NATO strap... Here are some parting shots of my latest creation...
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Awesome effect with the sanding. I'm going to try it out!
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Same build as I did before, but this one uses a DG2813... I couldn't find a gilt minute hand of the right length for this movement, but I was able to find a set with a big ball seconds hand. I think it works well.
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Thanks guys! I wonder where Phong etc get their case plans. Do they actually disassemble a 6538, say? Probably not.
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This is probably a dumb question, but I'll ask it anyway... Is there an online source for gen case dimensions/plans/etc? Can you find this information anywhere else, besides buying a gen and disassembling it? The google machine hasn't been helpful, so I thought maybe somebody here might know.
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Since it's already on the way, get the case and see what version you have. Maybe I got a fluke, and yours will take a standard dial size. After all, I only had an n=1 sample size. If not, it's probably easiest to just sell it and buy a Rafflestime case. Why pay Helenarou extra for a dial that will look too tight once it's cased? Whatever you do, make sure to tell us your tiger case measurements!
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The Rafflestime case is a great option. It takes a 29mm dial, which Ken can sell you. The tiger case on eBay doesn't, and Ken couldn't get me a 28mm dial to fit it.
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You can ask Tiger, but I think his crown takes a 0.9mm stem, which fits a DG2813 movement. The Rafflestime crown does, as well. As to whether a Rafflestime crown will fit a Tiger case tube, that I don't know. You can ask Tiger and Ken (Rafflestime) about their relative case tubes, to see if things match up. If not, you can overcome it if you have the right tube and a good modder. Again, it's hard to find a rep 28mm dial, 6200 or 6538, or whatever. Unless you get it custom printed, you will have to get your hands dirty. Get a 29mm dial from Ken for like $20. Grind 0.1mm from the rim at a time and try to fit it in the Tiger case. There are ways to do this. Be careful and it will work out. You can also try to go halfway and combine the dial work with shaving a bit off the rehaut to see more of the dial.
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I measured the rehaut dianeter on the v2 tiger case at 26.99mm. A Yuki dial would fall right through So, you can grind down a Silix or Helenarou to 28mm, or print a custom dial of that size. Apparent, the old tiger cases took a 29mm dial, but he's out of those and has no plans to make any more, as I understand it.
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Try again. I just emailed Silix today at the address Flyr provided. It worked fine.
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Yes. I want to sign up, too! You have PM.
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A stainless insert, though, would just replace the existing one.
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Sure. No problem! 28mm dial fits: 29 doesn't:
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Yup. I bought mine a month ago. The crystal profile is nicer, but it does only take a 26.5-28.2mm dial. There's enough metal there to machine it and open it up for a 29mm, or just grind down a dial to fit. Alternatively, you could fit a Yuki 6538 in the "v2" tiger without any sanding. Thinking outside the box, this might be a decent candidate for a 6542: no CG's, coin edge bezel, ...
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Make sure to ask for a branded big crown. I like it, too. The Athaya is probably closer to gen. But it's nice and substantial. And you don't have to go through the whole redrilling and tapping like you do with Athaya.
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Yes. Athaya vs Rafflestime vs Silix crowns... Rafflestime vs Silix
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Love the contrast between the silver and black. Striking. Welcome to the DJ club!
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Very glad to hear that!
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Just built this one using a Rafflestime case, HelenRou dial/hands, and an ETA 2846.
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They are cheap. The Clark 25-235 is going for $9.15 right now, shipped.
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DIY Removing an overlayed date wheel without a screwdriver
jerkstore replied to jerkstore's topic in Watch Repair & Upgrade
Also, KBH rightly pointed out that this method can't be applied to the 2824. It's DW sits too low. Apologies for the error.- 3 replies
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- Date wheel
- overlay
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