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About spazthecat

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    Starting to like this place...

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  1. I’m interested. Count me in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Tried the printer at work and it definitely gives a better result. Black is denser and more even and text is sharper. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Sort of. I’d like it sharper but I think it’s a limitation of my printer. There’s a small bit of ink “overspray” into the white areas. I’ve cleaned the print head, even removed it and rinsed it with alcohol until the run off was clear. Ran all of the realignment and print test utilities and the result is the same. I have access to an HP DesignJet printer at work, I might give it a try with that if I can get a little private time with the printer. Yep, those pinholes are annoying. Fortunately they aren’t present on each dial on the sheet. And, like you, found you can pretty effectively
  4. Finally got my print driver settings dialed in. My first dial attempt is below (unfinished, freshly slid onto dial plate)It’s got some defects in the paper so, I’ll have to be a little more careful when I do it “for real” but, all in all, I’m pretty happy. Thanks for all the tips in this thread and others. —Andy Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. Well, I figured out what the issue is and though I’d share it as it might be helpful to others. It did turn out to be the printers black and white printer resolution. I ended up making a basic dial in Illustrator. Just a chapter ring and hour markers. Printing a black dial looks like crap but changing the dial color to blue turned out great. So, I guess I’ll try fooling around with the dial color. I think I could go with a really dark navy blue and would be able to get it to look black. Either that or just buy a new printer... Thanks, Andy Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. Hi, After a little break from reps, I thought I’d give dial printing a go and I’m running into a little problem with print quality that I can’t quite figure out and was hoping someone might have a few pointers for troubleshooting. Basically, the dial text is quite blurry and looks kind of too small for the dial. No where near as crisp as what I’ve seen in some of the pictures in this thread. I’m working with the 6610 template that Bart so graciously donated to the forum. What I’m doing to print is as follows: 1. Open dial template is Photoshop 2. Create a new 4x6 document at a resolut
  7. Hi, Basically just doing due diligence here as a know nothing about Breitling watches. My brother-in-law found an old Navitimer II in a drawer and wanted me to take a look and get it running again. Caseback has a model number (6323) that I can’t find any info about and it’s a Miyota quartz. From what I can tell, Breitling never made a quartz based Navitimer from that era. Thanks, Andy Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. I might be in the minority, but I have nothing against the DG2813 movement. The few I've owned were just fine and I'm reasonably comfortable breaking down a movement and cleaning it. So, provided I don't need to buy parts, I should be OK in that regard. I'll have to look for that thread on RWI when they are back up. It sounds interesting and would be helpful. Appreciate the responses. Thanks, Andy
  9. I’m in the market for something relatively cheap and was leaning towards a Regmariner but then I came across a Noob Seadweller on Toro’s site for $138 http://www.tb-2018.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1419 Just wondering if anyone has one and what they think? Seems like it can’t be all that bad and the price is right. Thanks, Andy Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. Hi, I've got a Daytona my brother-in-law picked up in Tailand and one of the pushers is stuck in the "out' position. That is, I can't get the crown of the pusher to screw down and when I do push it down it will stick there. So, I was trying to dissamble the pusher and try to repair it. It's the type of pusher with a tiny c-clamp which I thought was holding it in place. However, with the c-clamp removed, I'm still not able to remove the plunger. Any suggestions? Thanks, Andy
  11. Last two cartel subs I received had the white gasket you are talking about. It’s meant to take up the extra space between the crystal and the retaining ring. Basically, the crystal is too small. I’d measure the ID diameter of the retaining ring and then order a PA crystal that Jackflash mentioned. There are a couple of different sizes to pick from. Worst case is you have to glue the crystal in place. I ended up doing that on mine because the bezel assembly plus crystal kept popping off. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. Hi, I have a Tudor Black Bay Bronze and the stem broke off in the crown. I was able to successfully dissolve the remaining stem by soaking it in an alum solution. The crown seems fine, but won't the alum solution also affect the integrity of the spring causing it to eventually fail? Thanks, Andy
  13. Toaster oven. Lowest "toast" setting for 10 minutes. I was really pretty surprised it turned that quick. Other dials that I've baked took quite a bit more time. I had the hands in for the same amount time and they look brand new still....
  14. Thanks. I just might take you up on that. Just curious, but do you still sell budget Explorer dials? I really don't feel like waiting for another one from Raffles and my effort at printing a decal for a new dial is not moving quickly/smoothly either. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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