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Posts
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Posts posted by QueTip
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Wow and another stunner. I can't stop looking at your builds, that attention to detail is superior!
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What a stunner!
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1 hour ago, martijnp said:
One of these...
Great shot mate!
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I'm really liking the faded style, that's personal preference though.
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Loving it! Great piece, I have one like this myself!
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50 minutes ago, DaniGago said:
so 1:1 replacement is possible? difficulties? would appriciate your long answer as well
Yup, it's possible. For the long and detailed answer you can click the link @Sogeha has referred to.
Just click it and it will open in a new window.
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8 minutes ago, Dan71 said:
so isn't necessary modded the final connecting link..
Ok, but i can't understand how are connect the endlink on the bracelet..maybe your isn't a 93150 ?
They are all constructed the same way. I am happy it worked out without needing modification in the end.
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Check if you have some half links around, I did that on a two tone bracelet I had a while ago. You can pry the links apart and remove the center of the half mid link and do the same on the connecting piece and exchange them.
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Wow now this looks amazing! Great piece! I'm truly jealous.
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Great shot, a real beauty you have there man!
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Turned out amazing as I've already told you brother! Wear her in good health!
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Just now, irolexu said:
I would have never found MQ with out you my brother! Thanks man! It was a bit of a head ache as this took me 2 rejections to get him to make me what I was looking for!Thanks for the kind words! I'm happy it worked out in the end! I'm loving the outcome, really!
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Now look at that man! Looks amazing @irolexu! Glad it came to this and also I am glad I was able to help you on the way!
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Damn, it's not even really cold round here yet, yet I'm already freezing like hell. Been slightly below 10°C and about 4°C at night / morning but BRRRR how do you survive this?
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Yeah, you're right!
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Great pics and awesome scenery but that last pic has got me lying on the floor.
Oh yeah and of course (!) more than amazing DRSD
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On 10/5/2016 at 10:48 PM, irolexu said:
this would work for a Datejust as they are very common but I don't think this route would apply on a 116613
Correctamundo, +1
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On 10/7/2016 at 5:19 PM, altesporsche said:
Thats what happens when I try to do something with a watch after a half a bottle of Dalmore King Alexander III haha
Lmao
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Huh?
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You can't give info regarding 'gen vs rep's when you don't know whether this was a gen or not yourself in the beginning.
Congrats on the piece though but owning a gen doesn't give you knowledge.
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Wow, looks spectacular. You have to get the insert done though! That v6s insert is a NoGo!
16800, a little info thread
in The Rolex Area
Posted
The 16800
I've been thinking about this for quite a while yet and thought I would do a little tutorial on 16800 builds as the one I did on the Bluesy builds.
Since there are NO reps of that model, you HAVE to build it to have it.
So first things first.. The 16800
Basically it is the model between the 1680 and the 16610 (168000 actually but are we counting this??)
It is a pretty unpopular Rolex in collectors eyes so far but I am totally positive that will change drastically over time with the rarity of the Pallettoni dials and the special spider dials that are popping up in those pieces, there most likely is a great potential in those pieces.
Improvements compared to the 1680:
- Saphire Crystal -> no more acrylic
- Rolex Cal 3035 -> no more 1570/5 (-> added QuickSet function and now high beat)
- Unidirectional rotating bezel
- Waterproof to a depth of 300m -> 200m on the 1680
- New crown - 703 (trip lock) -> 700 on the 1680
- 93150 Bracelet with 593 end links -> 7206 or 9315 on the 1680 with 580 end links
Now let's get to the building.
Of course you will want a decent case as a base for your build. I also have to say this is probably one of the hardest tasks in repdom.
Find a correct case...
There are not many to choose...
Only ones I know about that are usable are:
- 3035 ST case (old and super rare)
- Phong 16800 case ($$$)
Sure you could use a TC case too but that wouldn't have a shallow rehaut and just be incorrect, also you will have to drill lug holes. It's up to you to decide if you can live with that flaw or not. Imho it's not too much of a biggie but I would still hunt for a correct case.
Once you have a case, move on with the sourcing of a crystal, crown and tube.
I personally would go gen on all of those.
- nonAR 295c sapphire crystal
- 703 crown and tube
After that, I would go with the decision of the bezel assembly and the bezel ring.
Your choices are:
- Genuine
- Phong
- ST
- TC (if you go TC case)
Bezel insert HAS to be gen imho so there goes that.
Now we have almost everything except for movement, bracelet, hands and dial eh? Yeah exactly.
Now it is yours to choose if you want to go matte dial (Pallettoni) or gloss dial (with WG surrounds)
Special dials would be the Spider dials (also $$$ if proper one)
Spider dial:
The matte dials are pretty expensive to buy if you can even find them in an acceptable condition. They are really hard to come by.
The gloss ones although are out there like sand on the beach, you can find them literally everywhere and also score pretty good deals on them
To be periodic correct there are several Marks for the dials..
Matte dials:
Mk1:
Mk2:
Rare dial, can usually be found on watches with serial numbers from 6.1 to 8.5 mil ('84-'85)
The hyphen in the wording 'Swiss - T<25' is perfectly centered with the '6 Marker whilst on the Mk1 it was placed more on the right.
Also in the depth indication the tail of the letter 'f' almost touches the tip of the letter V in 'SUPERLATIVE'.
Mk3:
Even rarer dial than mk2
The two hyphens of the '=' in the depth indication are staggered - not aligned to each other
Mk4:
Now the Mk4 is a special dial since it is a dial that was around at the early serials.
It is unique for the font of the 'ft' and the inclination.
Gloss dials:
Mk1:
Mk2:
I think the difference between gloss Mk1 and Mk2 are obvious, so I will not get into them now.
Bicchierini Dial
the Beyeler dials with WG surrounds that came out in '84 and lasted for a year or two. These dials would have the same printed font as the matte dials and were supposedly gloss dials but a lot of them have lost their gloss over time. This is a Beyeler dial- circa 84-85.
(taken from alli, thanks, I forgot it)
If you have found a dial you like, go and buy a hands set, you should use:
- genuine
- TC LN v2
and age them to match the Patina of your dial.
When it comes to the movement, the question is all about your wallet.
You can go:
- genuine cal. 3035
- ETA
Now last but not least, we're having the bracelet..
For that you can choose between those:
- genuine 93150
- PT 93150
- anything else aftermarket
However I would suggest at least getting a genuine clasp for it.
Please also keep the dating of the clasp code in mind so that it mates up with the rest of your build specs.
After you have sourced all of those parts, send them out to the watchmaker of your choice and have him build the 16800.
Happy building!
I hope this can be of use for you guys, I thought why not post it here too since I had it on RWI.
There's another one of the 16613 Bluesy ready if it is wanted.