GenTLe

Once you've seen that the movement performs normally, you can finish it with the rest. Therfore rotate the movement and we'll start with the bits on top! Not a lot of pics here as the process is quite straightforward. Anyway install in this order: "CANNON PINION WITH DRIVING WHEEL 028-A16", then together the "24HOUR WHEEL 103-A16" (103-A09 in the PDF) and the "MINUTE WHEEL AND PINION 072-998", and finally the other smaller gears: "INTERMEDIATE DATE CORRECTING WHEEL(1) 087-A71", "INTERMEDIATE DATE CORRECTING WHEEL(2) 087-A75", "CALENDAR CORRECTOR WHEEL 213-614" and the "INTERMEDIATE DATE CORRECTING WHEEL 087-A72": It's now the time for the 2 springs (named respectively "Date jumper 109-875" - 109-870 in the PDF; and teh "CALENDAR CORRECTOR LEVER SPRING 903-A17"), one acting on the date wheel and one for the "INTERMEDIATE DATE CORRECTING WHEEL 087-A72", plus you put the "Hour wheel 075-A51" with its copper washer and finally also the date wheel/disk: Note: if you don't manage to make the "Date jumper 109-875" - 109-870 in the PDF - to stay in place, you can fix it later: there's a small hole in the top plate to fix it. Finally the top plate "DATE INDICATOR MAINTAINING PLATE / HOUR WHEEL SPRING 176-A04" with its 5 tiny screws: Test that the stem works fine, that you can manually wind the movement, set the time and quick change the date. Test also that the date changes automatically moving the time forward in the time setting position. If all is fine, regulate the movement, and as very lastly put back the autowind rotor and you've done! Here the results after the service (remember it was running with 166° amplitude before...): Face up: Crown at 3: Crown up: Crown at 9: I may say that I'm pretty satisfied of the results, also because I've never seen a 9015 going up to more than 300° of amplitude! I think that the initial problem was simply that the main barrel got opened: it is visible by how the main spring was not plain in the open barrel picture, plus when I disassembled the movement I found it open...

Let's start with the rest. A premise: this is the way the main spring goes into the barrel, as reference (picture taken while disassembling it, quite dry as you can notice...): Once the plate has been rotated, you can install the "Complete barrel 001-992" but, before, install the click and its spring ("Click 060-551" and "Click spring 903-A15") with their screws and the "Breaklever for second hand 269-402" which is the one that hacks the watch when you put it in time-setting mode. Respectively 1, 2 and 3 in the pic below. Another suggestion is to have the click spring slightly lifted so that it doesn't push on the click. You will put it back later once the top plate "BARREL AND TRAIN WHEEL BRIDGE 701-J09" has been installed (there's a hole to fix the click in that), otherwise installing the top plate is a mess... Once done, you can put the "RATCHET WHEEL 059-802" on top of the barrel, the "CENTER WHEEL & PINION 012-A20" and finally the "Reversing wheel 141-251" (that I treated with Lubeta reversing wheels lubricant in advance): Then up it goes the "Center wheel bridge 702-201". Remember to put some Moebius HP1300 in the jewels that will support the other gears on top of the plate, as once the bridge has been installed those jewels in it will face the main plate and will not be reachable: And here we are with those "other gears on top of the plate" that I mentioned at the previous point: the "INTERMEDIATE REDUCTION WHEEL AND PINION(2) 088-252" and the "INTERMEDIATE REDUCTION WHEEL AND PINION(3) 088-253". Also the "Escape wheel and pinion 032-991" has been placed in its jewel: Finally you install the rest of the main train wheels: the "Third wheel and pinion 017-A01" (check that the lower pinion is correctly in its jewel!!!) and the "Fourth wheel and pinion 023-A21". Do NOT install the pallet fork and its bridge ("JEWELED PALLET FORK AND STAFF (9015-26A) 035-701" and "PALLET BRIDGE 708-091") now like in the picture. Leave it for later!: Now put all this on a side as we have to assembly all the parts composing the "BARREL AND TRAIN WHEEL BRIDGE 701-J09". Similar to the ETA 2892 parts of the autowinding system are hidden below of this bridge and require assemblage before to install the bridge on the rest of the movement. I will show a couple of pictures so that you can see how it is composed. The first is when it has been disassembled, the second with all its parts in place. The parts are the "TRAIN WHEEL GUARD(MANUAL- WINDING) 117-361" (117-360 in the pdf assembly schema) which keeps in position with 3 tiny screws the gears named "RATCHET SLIDING WHEEL(2) 087-A74", "RATCHET SLIDING WHEEL(1) 087-B08" (087-B03 in the pdf) and the "CROWN WHEEL 058-501" Plus the "TRAIN WHEEL GUARD(AUTOMATIC) 117-354" that keeps in place the gear named "INTERMEDIATE REDUCTION WHEEL AND PINION(4) 138-251" Now the trickiest part is to place the "BARREL AND TRAIN WHEEL BRIDGE 701-J09" because, as you can see from the previous picture, you will need to align 6 pinions plus the barrel arbor... Not exactly immediate... But anyway with patience you can do it. Do NOT push the plate, it will not go in place in that way and you'll damage the pinions! When it seems in place, put a pair of screws without tighten them and try to rotate the barrel with a finger or something: the wheels should rotate freely without too much pressure. Also now it's time to fix the click spring through the hole at 11 o'clock in the picture Now you can fit "JEWELED PALLET FORK AND STAFF (9015-26A) 035-701" and "PALLET BRIDGE 708-091" (not yet installed in the picture), other than the "INTERMEDIATE REDUCTION WHEEL AND PINION(1) 088-251" with its spring clip (take care: that spring clip tends to fly away landing in "that place where the watch movement bits disappear") You can now finally put the balance and its bridge and test the movement and see if it works fine, before to start the final part (time setting and date wheel mechanics). END OF SECOND PART

Hi Mates, within my researches I've never been able to find a proper step-by-step Miyota 9015 assembly tutorial online, and neither an oiling chart for it. I hope this thread will unveil it for a larger public and will be a kind of reference for those that will have to deal with this movement. It all started when I got this watch, a BP factory 16613 sub. A very nice watch with a Miyota 9015 inside (I chose the "undecorated version" of it, as it's a closed case back watch and I value reliability and ease of access more than a fake plate glued on top) with a blue sun-ray dial (with purplish reflexes that came ONLY in the pictures I take with the phone, and totally plain blue at naked eyes). This one: It worked fine for like 3 days after I regulated it, then I noticed it started to misbehave, loosing even 5 minutes/day... So I put it on the timegrapher discovering something very wrong with it... The amplitude was ridiculous and the power reserve was very bad (normally these movements should be around 270° when fully charged): Since I never put my hands on a 9015, I decided to buy a new movement for a quick swap, as I don't like to have a watch disassembled for too much tim. I got it from here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/142324061467 but at the time I bought it, it was priced at 76US$... So a good price. Now it's too expensive there, better on Cousins UK. The only difficulties I had in the swap were caused by the tiny screws of the "DATE INDICATOR MAINTAINING PLATE / HOUR WHEEL SPRING 176-A04" which were partially hidden below the date wheel overlay added to center the date in the date window and to give it the correct fonts and date disk base colour. With patience it is feasible anyway. After some time I took the bad working movement and started to deal with it. To help my job this document http://www.citizen.co.jp/miyota_mvt/9015/pdf/parts_9015.pdf was very important, as like as the camera pictures that I took disassembling it which I used as references sometimes. Also take a look to this as the terms I'll use will be taken from it: http://miyotamovement.com/parts_search.php?open=9015 So, let's start with the movement in bits, after the cleaning process. Respect to the ETA ones with same functions (2824, 2892 etc) this movement is more complex: it has more parts and the assembly can be a bit tricky, as for instance the "barrel and train wheel bridge" requires to align 6 pinions (vs. 4 for the 2824 and 3 for 2892), so not exactly something immediate, but anyway it is something that can be done. My suggestion is, as always, to divide the parts in functional groups while you're disassembling the movement, marking how you divided them on a paper copy of the assembly chart pdf file I placed upper in this post. Each functional group and its screws goes into a different container (keeping that separation also when washing the bits) in order not to mix them up. There are several similar gears and screws, which by the way are NOT identical, so take care not to mix them. Also you need to take care reassembling the Miyota version of the balance shock absorber. The first time I did it I put the "Spiral spring with jewel 098-090" upside down, leaving the concavity (which I thought was for the oil) to the external side, and having the balance blocked due to the interference between it and the spiral spring jewel itself. THIS is the way to correctly install it, the "Spiral spring with jewel 098-090" is the yellow part indicated with B and has the concave side of the jewel facing the balance: Now let's get back to the movement assembly. I'll not go into the details of the oiling: once you've done it for few ETA ones, you'll understand which oils / greases and where to put them by your experience. This is the main plate, already with the antishock installed but with nothing else on it: As usual I start the assembly from the keyless and stem parts. To do that, you need to rotate the plate in order to ease the insertion of the stem and the "clutch wheel 064-991" and the "winding pinion 063-351": Here a close up of the clutch wheel 064-991" and the "winding pinion 063-351" with a mixture of Moebius HP 1300 and some Molycote DX (lithium and PTFE based white grease): Once the stem is correctly in, then you can rotate again the plate, as the rest of the keyless parts are on the other side. I treated them (all and the stem too) with some Moebius Fixodrop to avoid oil to spread around. Starting the assemblage of the keyless, the first bit is the "Setting lever 067-995": Followed by the "Yoke 071-995" (note that it acts as a spring, so the final part of it presses against the protrusion at the border of the main plate): On top of both there is the "Operating lever 257-152": And finally the "Setting lever spring 077-996". I suggest to put it and start to screw its 2 screws while the spring is not yet engaged with the "Setting lever 067-995". Stop to screw-in when there is a minimum of resistance, make the spring part to fit on the setting lever protuberance and finish to tight the 2 screws. I also installed the "Setting wheel 076-751" (that small gear at the top of the operating level): put some oil on its post so that it doesn't fall whan you rotate the movement to go on with the installation. END OF FIRST PART

Actually I measured the retaining ring on my V3 and V5 Noob and the right size of the die should be 30.5mm (internal). It can't be 29.5 as that is the internal diameter of the gasket, and you need to press a ring which is placed outside the external part of the gasket.

Thanks to botsyboy (RWI) I got the size: 29.5mm, on CousinsUK it's the R30520 THe fact is that the crystal of rolexes are smaller in the hidden part, so even if outside it is a 30.4mm, then below it's a 29.5. See a Milgauss one for example:

You can try to contact him. The mail is wilerwetta AT gmail DOT com

I have a couple of Noob subC, a hulk v3 and a black V5 (and also a BP PRoHunter GMT 2). Measuring the diameter of the crystal, without taking it out, I read around 30.4mm, so I suppose it is a 30.5mm as normal for a Noob one. May someone help me to get which is the right one 2.3mm tall to select? At cousins, if I check in the "Rolex non branded" parts, I can select up to 29.6mm (internal) size: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/glass-gaskets-iso-swiss-additional-sizes or 29.5mm: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/glass-gaskets I'm a bit lost... Thanks in advance! GenTLe

Thanks Rolexman! I found out that one of the best cleaning way is warm isopropyl alcohol (put some hot water in the ultrasonic cleaner and a little jar with the alcohol, bain-marie way) and give a full 5min ultrasonic shake

Scam site. Noob factory does NOT have any website. They are just pretending to be them. And, by the way, they are at v7 now. Look for the v7 sub on any of the TD site like InTime01.co or tb-688.com

New Seiko Turtle with domed aftermarket blue AR sapphire crystal. And good beers

tb-688.com Yes but they still have made them wrong colour

Look what arrived at Toro (not yet on his site): Waiting to see the price. It could me my next watch. I love that vibrant yellow

Probably this one:

Congrats! Probably the same I am waiting This is mine: http://iwatchstation.com/navitimer-01-11-ss-black-dial-on-black-leather-strap-a7750.html Inviato da mTalk

OOKKKK, forget about this thread... I looked well pictures of the 341 on the web and the real crownguard isn't short. It's just beveled on the sides, so I'm not going to shorten the whole thing, but at most make it very flush with the case and bevel the external parts:

The problem isn't the elbow grease I already experimented it with the mods I did on my 1665 case. The problem instead is the lever of the CG. If you look in this pic: you can see that the lever can't just be "filed" to the right shape, because there will remain no lever at all if I'll try to take away 2mm from it. It has been bent (but on SS I doubt it is feasible on so small parts) or created from scratch, which isn't exactly something doable without at least a little milling machine :/

I recently got the tickle for a Mini-Egi 47mm build, also considering how cheap they comes (150$ shipped now from one of my trusted TDs). I have seen this great build from @Dlf member here: and I'm going toward that route. I just don't get how/where he managed to find the smaller CG... I mean... I can reshape the "half moon" part, but I don't thing it's possible, with standard tools, to reshape also the lever... Do you know if there is any source for a part like that? Thanks and cheers, GenTLe PS: I already tried to write a message to @Dlf but he has the mailbox full (or decided not to accept PMs).

So probably the black leather one is the one I was referring to as good. I am also waiting for one from iwatchstation (Pure time wholesaler) Inviato da mTalk

This thread has 3 years. In the meantime better versions of the B01 have been produced. Andrew has one with frozen minute counter but NO sunken date for example. And there is a model from 2015 on leather where the dw doesn't look much sunken too. Inviato da mTalk

@Dlf: you can't receive pm right now, so trying to write here Hi mate. I have seen your work over the 47mm Egi and I have been really impressed. Recently I got a nice Molnija 3601 and I was thinking to build something around it. I am still deciding between a B-Uhr pilot or a mini Egi. Both have pro&cons: an Egi build would be more challenging and the parts probably more difficult to find, but I like it more... May I ask you where did you managed to find a 47mm Egi stock with the correct dial? I couldn't find in any of our TDs (and I don't want to use a 54mm one, way to big...). And did it come with an Asian 6487 or with some other movement? Also, is it a glass case back? Thanks for now, Alex

So... it has been finished The jobs done on it: - case reshaped - lug holes drilled to accept gen-like spring bars - bezel spring replaced with a CousinUK Rolex aftermarket one, this solved the loose bezel problem - DWO repositioned - movement replaced with an ETA 2846 (21600BPH) taken from an old 1992 Automatic swatch, serviced and with mainspring, 4th wheel, cannon pinion and hour wheel from the original 2836 (in order to have good power and the right height of hands over the dial) - Athaya 702 crown and tube Pic following The "dirt" on the hour hand is just a reflection. There're no spots on it.

Removed and reglued the dwo:

Naa, I don't want to spend hundreds of $ on a watch that, in the end, is still not original. I don't get the "frankens". So I'll put inside a 21600 swiss eta 2846 (bought for like 45$ and serviced) and re-assemble all. I also ordered a cousinUK spare bezel to check how it is in comparison with the one that came with the watch.

Yestarday eve I spent some time to cleanup well the lab and I tested the water resistance: with the new Athaya crown we are at least at 5.5ATM

Never seen such model between reps, and having had a rep, one of the signs is that after some time the rodium start to fade revealing the brass below. This seems quite beaten up and not showing the brass let me think it can be gen. Other 2 tells (but not sure if always applicable) is the serial: engraved and precisely on a line = fake. The gen are punched and not on a straight line: Also you can check the refill cap. Gens are yellow inside: