GenTLe

Please, may some of the experts chime in and tell me how to arrive to the screw that keeps the rotor of the Noob ROO Chrono in place? I have seen that the 2 screws are fake. What I can't get is if the little round plate with the jewel in the middle of the rotor is a screw itself (and should be turned using something to fit in the 2 holes it has on the surface) or if it is somehow glued and below there is the real rotor screw. Thanks, GenTLe

Yeah, but get the 2836 based ones, not the ones with the crappy A3135...

I do it with the case in my left hand and tool in right hand. By the way remember you don't need to tight it to death... When the case and caseback cover surfaces come in touch just give them a little more tight to make them not easily unscrewable and that's it: the waterproofing is done by the gasket, which once the metal surfaces get in contact is already tight at its maximum.

Got mine (brand Huaxing) from AliExpress. It works well.

Personally I hate the ketchup way. It is messy, it can go below the bezel where you don't want it and thanks god that stuff isn't diffused in Italian homes. Just check the caseback and crown aren't lose, take away the strap (this should be done whatever system you want to use), take a recipient and put in some vinegar/lemon juice and a little spoon on NaCl (common salt). Then leave the watch in tipa bath for 10 mins and you are done. A little rinse with fresh water (better demineralized) and that's it. The brown nato comes together the kw/v6f watch as a bonus.

A further suggestion: if you go for the Noob v6s remember to get the one with asian 2836 movement (a tad less expensive and much more reliable) and not the a3135

Well you got the best one around so no worries

Strange. Normally they leave the hole for the stem removing pusher...

Serviced, dwo and insert repositioned. Lovely It is a v5 Noob.

Invest on a batch of 50 dials like these and you can gain some valid money there...

Just look in the trusted dealer list. Currently the best one to get for such model is produced by Noob factory and is version v6s with the a2836 movement (avoid the 3135 one). Nearly any seller (trusted dealer) can get it for you. Buy really check out for other brands too as they are great (Panerai, IWC, Tudor, etc). This forum is in large part composed by Rolex and Ap aficionados that also sometimes spend little fortunes to mod or "franken" their watches, but still the daily pics can give you an idea of what there is around

Well, welcome to this world. Now try some of our trusted dealers: they have updated models and send you QC pics that you can check before to ship you the watch. Other than Rollies, Panerai are done incredibly well. And now there is out an amazing Tudor black bay in real Bronze oyster case.

Mate you clearly don't know how this game works. 1st practically NO ONE td can keep his site updated with available-only watches. This is because they are not kept updated by the factories that produce and have stocks of the watches and a watch that is available until yesterday may be sold out today. 2nd if a watch has been added to the site 3 years ago probably isn't still available: watches are produced un batches of 1000/5000 pieces. Once they are gone only exceptionally they are produced again. So for an old model you should always ask for availability before to pay. 3rd threats and PayPal/card chargeback will just cause you to be banned from all the forums: TDs are TRUSTED for valid reasons. This isn't fecking Amazon!! Politeness and collaboration solve the problems. Your attitude doesn't!

I would avoid the a3135 as a plague. Get a 2834 one. Plus Noob DD in gold is probably not in production anymore (try, but I searched for a white dial one last year with no success).

Ordered one 702 from Adrian. He seems a very nice and supportive fella!

Yeah Nanuk I thought I will use the same process, probably with my column drill to perfectly control the advancement.

No no 7mm is the one I will need Thanks anyway

Perfect! Lovely informations! Thanks

Great info Sputim. I already have a 3x0.35 tool and already did this in the past so I am confident. Eventually the most difficult part is the conic part where the tube go against the case (unless it will be a non conic tube). Last 3 questions: did you got the tube from Athaya too? And which kind of money are we speaking about for a crown/tube set? I have looked at Yuki and they want quite big money for the brevet one... Finally: diameter of the stem for the Athaya? Normally the stems are 0.9mm (=Tap10) but I remember I have read somewhere Athaya uses the 1.2mm (tap7). Thanks again!

Hi vintage Rolex experts. One of my future purchase will be a JK factory 1665 DRSD. Overall it is ok, and I already have a 2842 (21.6kbph) Swiss movement ready to fit. One of the annoying thing of this model: Is the thick crown. I did some research and got that original one is 24-700 to 24-702. 24-703 if it underwent to a Rolex revision. The dial apparently is a pre-Mark V (maybe the.most similar one is Mark III). So... Which of the crowns versions would be more appropriate? And do you know if Athaya has it and if it will fit il the rep tube? Thaaaaanks, GenTLe

Aaahhh. Ok then! I thought you was a 13yo kid with that forearm Best is when she will start to service the movements for you [emoji14] Aaahhh. Ok then! I thought you was a 13yo kid with that forearm Best is when she will start to service the movements for you [emoji14]

Damn... Looking at the 1st pic I was thinking "finally a girl around here!" [emoji14]

Geez... These are seriously nice!!!

IWC does divers? Me going to look at the site... EDIT: damn... I forgot about this terrific one:

This week I wanted to fix the fake PR hand of my BP (putting it at full 7 days indication) and, in the meantime to service the movement inside. Since there's no "Lubrification / assembly chart" for this movement, I took a lot of pics during the disassemble phase, in order to then reassemble it in the correct way. I am sharing here those pics so that, if someone wants to do something similar, he can be helped and use these as references. First a couple of pics of the fake PR hand fix. It is glued with some gummy glue directly on the dial. There is no fake pinion but just a hand holder. I removed all the residue of glue (still present in the 1st pic), re-positioned it and reglued it from the back of the dial with a bit of cyanoacrylate glue. Fixed hand (dial not yet cleaned): Final result (the dust on the face is OUTSIDE the glass): Now let's go to the movement. These are, in chronological order, all the pics of the movement dismantle. Movement still cased, only removed part is the rotor: Autowind bridge (you really need to take care about the micro gear there, it is easy to lose it!): Movement mounted with no autowind bridge: Upper face (fully assembled): Dismount phases of the upper part: Detail of the date wheel setting bridge: Lower part (take care of those 3 friction rings between the plate and the gears!!): Details of the barrel: Back to the movement: Keyless (take care to the micro washer below the setting lever jumper! Visible in the 1st pic here below) Comments on the movement: very solid one in my opinion. The finishing is quite rough and the design is much less "clean" than an ETA 2824 with many more little parts. The way the date changer wheel is done makes it not breakable if the date is changed when it's already engaged. Cheers, GenTLe