Rolexman

I mountainbike with all my watches. You are however increasing the risc of damaging gears or the balance staff when doing rough stuff. But I'm aware of that.

-edit-

Nuchtere Hollander

You'll never get this off the ground. No way. Never.

Sorry.

Probably a defective reversing wheel. The main spring doesn't store/ holds enough energy.

That's interesting to hear. I have no direct experience to call upon but I recall reading it here before that it was the case. For some time the DG4813 from one of the dealers (can't recall which unfortunately) was highly sought after because it had the taller pinions and are now no longer available. It was commented that the DG from Ofrei for example had the shorter ones and were problematic with the raised marker dials. Hmmmmm . Good to hear that it may not be the case.

Could be there are some small variations or alterations? My swaps were in early 09. With your info in mind i's wise to first ask about the hight of the canon pinion. Maybe there pinions are interchangeable? Are the members that know?

Seriously though mate.... Thanks I just downloaded it and will have a play over the weekend..... now I must go I have to polish my sledge hammer....

Actually depends on the dial. Most of the DG4813 have the shorter canon pinions so won't clear the rollie dials with applied markers.

Never had any problems, noob and SSD.

ONLY if the A7750 has the date jump wheel shown in the picture. If it has the solid brass kind used in older A7750 and ETA movements, then you will damage the works.

Yup, the Asian is superior in regard to quick date set. Go firgure ....

Great job filming it. Nice and sharp film. What camera did you use?

PS: Don't forget to oil and grease the different parts as the keyless works is under a lot of stress. Otherwise wear and tear will set in pretty fast as all the metal grinds against eachother. It's easy if you have some different oilers, the right oil and grease (D5 and PML) and follow the SwissL@b instructions.

Correct... as stated earlier, I reset the keyless works before hand. I wish I had taken pics of it before I started the complete tear down But, the tutorial has been fun to make so I figured I should keep going. Plus, for my own knowledge, it was fun to see how it all went together and to see how it operates. The video will show this a little more clearly and is uploading now

Ah ok. A worthy contribution Red

Nice pics but there was no reason to disassemble the keyless works other than a educational purpose for this forum. All components were positioned just fine.

Keyless works looks fine by the way

Nice tut.

Buck Buck !! you mean Cluck Cluck P ....

that's the sound European chickens make

Make it easy on yourself and use 'Paint'. If you want some help let me know!

Cluck Cluck over and out

I am not a PAM expert by any stretch but compared to H factory PAMs it looks like a rep.

For the money it's a good looking watch with a very reliable movement. Probably even more reliable than the gen

Beat error varries regarding to the position of the movement. 0.5 dial up can lead to 0.1 crown down (which is the position the movement is in most when wearing). Don't worry about it too much

And if u want to swap the DG2813 for a DG4813 this is possible?

That's a 1-on-1 swap.

I'm following this thread. If all turns out okay I might order one too.

Because they slip!

Lately I'm getting more and more 7750s on the bench with slipping second hands. Or ones that slip when I reinstall them after service. Or sometimes I completely tear the hand apart from the tube when removing it and end up finiking 30 minutes to get it back in .

Overal the most chrono second hands of our 7750 watches are poorly finished and mostly only suitable for one-time instalment only. After that the tube most likely has too much sl*ack after reinstalling which causes the hand to slip.

And then there's the problem to make the chrono second hand in place. Due to the large force it's under from the hammer it needs proper friction to stay in place. Crimping the hand is almost impossible as when you squeeze one side of the tube the other side will get larger (still too much sl*ck). Glue is even more difficult to use in securing the hand as the pivot is very hard to reach.

Therefore my hypotheses is: Installing the chrono second hand on a 7750 watch is hardest part of an entire service

Just wanted to vent

Mark,

Man...I am so sorry I did not see this before...I do not get down to this area much.

Pallet forks are a very finicky part to deal with. If the stone is off just the slightest amount, the movement will fail to run or run properly. It is all about geometry of the PF stone interface to the escarpment. The lock, input pulse, unlock...cycle repeat... needs to be just about perfect on both sides of the fork. If they impulse face is not at the correct angle or does not make square contact to the escape wheel...you get issues. I have spent a good day making PF work on reps. I strictly put in the time to learn...Now if I can not fix the issue in 5-10 minutes I replace the fork.

The issue I had above, was the fork was sitting too high, (away from the dial), that when the movement was turned to dial side up, the free play in the fork was just enough that it did not allow from proper engagement into the escape wheel. I ended up having to move the fork further down (towards the dial) on the arbor. This can be easily done with a staking set. Once I did that, all was good.

I hope in the last 2 months you have gotten this sorted. PM me next time you want me to follow up on a post all the way down here.

No problem Mike. I made the post and I replaced the PF like 10 minutes after that

I just did not want to tinker with it any longer.

So I too forgot about this post, otherwise I would have PMed ya

Thanks for your elaborate answer though!

Both can be reliable and serviced, best would be the swiss but more value for money would be the asian 2836

If you want it reliable, have it serviced. Even the "swiss" movements coming from China can crap out if not serviced. Swiss does not mean the Movement comes directly from the factory in Switzerland and was assembled in a clean room as per Swiss specs.

+2 imo best option is Asian version and have it serviced.

I like the 300SLR version, the closed case back hides the movement (for those who care about the accuracy of the movement on open case backs).

However it is hard to tell if the color of the dial is right on the rep (it does not look brown), and the engraving on the case back is very lame compared to the gen.

And it has the clean bezel so maybe they will make the other models with that same smooth bezel ??

Buy a scratch pen and brush in 1 direction. Search for scratch pen on ebay and you'll find what I mean (sort of glass fiber tip pen) also available in a many car part stores for brushing away rust.

Hi Divo ~ I just went to Google and did an image search for "tag carrera 1887" and every photo that came up has tachy numbers on the bezel.

edit: hm! there seems to be some confusion about this watch .. some people are saying that the tachy bezel was only on the prototype?? Dunno.

Yes it was on the proto but they changed it.

The current ads in the watch magazines only showes a clean bezel.

(But not for 100% sure they will not come with other versions in the future)

I think you guys are right on the money! Too bad .

That's what you get if you replicate from pics and not disect the real deal