Rolexman

As the one from Eurotimez uses the same case as the POrikaa you should know it is very hard (impossible) to remove the HEV if you don't have the right skills or tools.....

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Great review of a great watch. Nice pictures, they really capture the beauty of this watch. Regarding the movement you should know that it is probably the best and most reliable movement around; a true workhorse. I own several DG2813s and all have been regulated withing COSC specs . If the movement works good from the beginning it will most likely do so over time. Because of it's simple design they will not break down easily, and if they do you can buy a replacement for around $12.00 or so . PS: As said before, this rep aint for all you anal members but it is on heck of a bang for the buck! I got mine pressure tested and made sure it is water proof (you can find my tutorial in the Omega section) so I will wear it diving on my holiday to Tenerife next week

There are some people who fitted a gen bezel on the V2 but you will most definitely ruin the rep bezel. You have to know that the rep bezel is pressure fitted (non-gen like). Instead of simply loosening the screws on the gen, you need to force the rep one off (scews are for show). In most cases you will end up bendig the rep bezel beyond repair during that process....

Who's responsible?

IMO The one in your link is a good bang for the buck and it get's my vote (edit: I mean THIS ONE). The case and bracelet are constructed very well, the dial and lume is superbe, has sapphire with mediocre AR and a clone ETA movement (which is nearly the same quality as the Swiss). The only two set backs are as mentioned the somewhat less AR and the etched 'b'on the side of the bezel instead of the stamped 'b' on the other version (hardly noticeable though). If one is really nit picking the missing serial numbers on the end lugs could also be mentioned. Both models have pro's and con's but if you way them against eachother I would prefer the one in your link. Or you could always buy them both and make a super rep by combining parts Damn, did I just gave you advice. You tricked me PS: The claimed water resistance by dealers is a hoax. Most of the times you can unscrew the case back with your fingers so the chance of reaching depths of 1000m without water entering the watch is rather small. If you secure the case back on this rep and make sure the crown is screwed down thight they all can easily be used for some recreational diving. Or you could always take some preliminary measures just to be sure.

I'm sorry man, I was just about to edit my post. I had a bad day at the office. No need to take it out on you We are all here to learn, even I! Mark PS: We're cool

-edit- There are mainly 2 versions of the SOSF available (2 manufacturers): Easily recognizable as the one with the 'squared box' second hand and the one with the arrow second hand, also referred to as Noobfish (there are other tell signs but I won't go in to that at the moment). The latter has sapphire, poor AR and an ETA clone or DG2813 movement. The first one has either the expensive Swiss ETA movement in combination with good double AR or an Asian DG2813 movement in combination with mineral crystal and no AR.

Well I owned all three so please don't be naive. The guy who runs the V2 factory only updated the date wheel. He didn't create a new dial or bracelet. It

Indeed

The noob factor in this thread is getting to high! As stated above there are only 2 manufaturers of the BCE (high-end that is). I was told this first hand. Draw your own conclusions..... The gen has indeed cocentric circles on the dial, as do both rep versions of the BCE. However on the V1 more noticeable than on the V2 . It has a lot to do with the lighting and the way it hits the dial.

I owned almost all versions and I'm sure

The rep is exactly: 39.14mm outer diameter and 31.49mm inner diameter

Take my advice. Educate yourself first. There is a lot of info here on the board. The one you're referring to has an ETA clone.... you ask me, what's an ETA clone? Is it Swiss? Nuff said Use the search function and read, than make your choise.

Glad you managed to get the insert out. Keep us posted... The crystal always popps out outwards, towards the bezel. It indeed requires quite some pressure resulting in a sore thumb afterwards

There's no need to buy a gen bezel. Just remove the movement, popp out the crystal with your thumb and remove the insert from the back. You could also remove the pearl and remove the insert from the front (as the pearl isn't part of the bezel... that only applies to the UPO). It's just glued in the insert so you could also try to pry it out from the front with a needle or jewelers screwdriver. You'll probably mess up the insert and pearl but if you're gonna replace it anyway it doesn't matter. Buy a good after-market insert, grind it if needed to get a good fit and glue it in. Good luck!

Come on dude! Stop talking crap! This was already discussed before. There is no such thing as a perfect V5. If there is provide me a link and I will donate 20 bucks to RWG! In essence there are only two (2) versions of the BCE as there are only 2 manufacturers: The V1 and V2. Both had some upgrades (and some QC issues) over time but they still can easily be distinguished. V1 vs V2 Deeper bezel and rider tab engravements on the V1 than the V2 Curve of the lugs on the V1 are steeper than the curve on the V2 The V1 has beveled chrono pusher sleeves, the V2 doesn't The embossed logo on the case back is less pronounced on the V1 than on the V2 The V1 has the 'b' on the side of the bezel etched instead of stamped on the V2 End link cut outs are more bend on the V1 than on the V2 V1 has the missing tick, V2 doesn't V1 has Frensh clasp engravements instead of English on the V2 The pic b16a2 provided is of a V1 with updated double AR, silver hands, new date font.... that's it! Overal it's still less accurate than the V2, even with the upgrades. PS: In regards to the dial colour... it's often hard to tell from dealer pics but the live pics I've seen of the white V1 version came closest to the gen. The V2 is too white and the V1 (missing tick) is more creamy. The gen is more creamy/ zilver. Here's a pic I took of the gen againt a white paper background.

Thanks guys! You just made my day. Odering has never been so easy REALLY REALLY appreciate it. Mark.

Thanks Zig! For Dennison I need to measure strength. Also the original spring was broken and disformed so measuring it opposes a difficulty

Don't double post. This one is already in the repair & upgrade section. Mods please remove!

Maybe the hacking lever is jamming... this explains the escape wheel (little wheel) not turning.

I looked at some webshops but there are so many different main springs to choose from and I have no idea what all the numbers and abbreviatons mean e.g. strength I was hoping someone could help me out. I'm working on a vintage watch which is over 40 years old and belonged to my grandfather. I can't pin point the movement based on the markings (maybe someone else can?). It's a 21j hand wind movement which looks and disassembles simular to an ETA 6497. It's only smaler and I don't think it's Swiss. The main spring meassured a little more than 30 cm in lengt and aprox. is 1mm wide. The barrel has an inner diameter of aprox. 4mm. I'm scared if I buy the wrong one the strength might damage the gear train..... So if you have any tips ore suggestions, they are very welcome