Rolexman

It's the yoke which is pushed out of place. Always remove the stem in the winding position! This is the safest position as the sliding pinion is in the most stable position. When the yoke is pushed out of it's slot easily (and one messes up the keyless works quite often )one could try to bend the setting lever a bit.

Use a Scotch Brite. Brush in 1 direction and voila!

You can use 'gun black'. It oxidices the metal and won't flake. Results vary depending on the sort of metal.

I once had a simular problem and after some investigation I discovered that a very small part of the balance staff tip had broken off. This caused the watch to stop in a certain position as it created a lot of drag. A good watchmaker can find the problem easily.

Great POrikaa. Best bang for the buck. Wear it well!

That´s indeed an option BM but parts are really hard to source where I live. Sort of a ´members only´ where the members are the qualified jewelers... It would be easier for a fellow RWG member to send me a dead movement or balance assembly. Would save me a lot of hassle

So I have a 2836 with a broken hair spring. I thought I would take a chance a buy a Swiss balance wheel but they are not interchangeable. So if anyone has a broken 2836 clone laying around and is willing to part with it (or just the balance wheel). Please shoot me a PM.

Don't look at reps with a 10x loup. Nothing will look OK. Most things can be easily fixed by uncasing the movement and removing the dial. You wil never receive a rep that is a 100%. There will ALWAYS be something. It can be the movement, bracelet, dial, etc etc. That's the rep business. See it as a sport. Back in the days when I didn'n knwew my way around movements I sometimes had to buy 6 identical watches in order to end up with one which was up to my standard. All came from the best dealers around. I sold the rest with some profit so it was a win-win. Now I usually buy one and make all the adjustments, improvements and fixes myself. There's nothing more rewarding!

52mm? Only Sly can pull that off

I service ETA's and clones on a regular base and IMO every extra buck for an ETA is throwing away money. The Chinese are doing a prety good job on those clones! In many cases the clones are even better then the (old stock) ETA´s. Please let's kill the myth ETA is better than clones. . . A Swiss seller on Ebay is selling clones as gen ETA for crying out loud. That´s how good they are

You will have a very hard time replacing the movement. You need a new Movement spacer, new hands, new dial, new crown ad stem. You also have to look into the movement thickness otherwise your stem and tube won't line up. Take my advice, wear this watch as is and if you want to mod buy a UPO with an ETA or clone. Saves you a lot of hassle.

Quality wise both movements are 99,9999% the same. Most of the time both versions are dirty and badly oiled, regardless if it's a Swiss or clone. Also the Swiss ones are often used movements. As the UPO has a closed case back and you can't see the movement anyway go for a clone! Have it serviced and you have a very reliable rep!

Thanks for your insight BM. Indeed I cleaned the balance caps and freshly oiled them. Could be the fresh oil that is cousing some friction? It would be rather strange however because it is according to spec with Mob.9010. There is indeed a big difference between movements.

Thanks Andy. The barrel is clean and greased (2824 in this case). Strange thing is you can see the gear train moving immediately when you turn the crown. Thus I can see the escape wheel pushing against the pallet fork. The balance wheel just doesn't start up at the same time. Maybe my Vibrograph is off?...

So here's the story. I've been servicing different movements for over a year now. From handwinds to automatics and chrono's. I learned a lot from this and other forums but the real expertise came after attending a watchmakers course for half a year. So the basics were set and by practicing (a lot) I'm proud to say I know my way around movements pretty good these days. So what's the problem? After servicing my movements I find the responsiveness of the balance to slow. IMO all the angles are covered: No over-oiling, right places, right oils etc. Also the regulation of the beat and rate afterwards is perfect (WatchMaster

You can't without removing them. Grease doesn't make a watch water resistant... tollerances do.

Nice vid but this is off course not comparable with a proper relume.... A regulal dial needs massive skills as do the hands.

An off center pearl... so what. All part of the game. Almost all items are drop shipped. I do believe even our dealers sometimes don't know if our rep is equipped with a gen or a clone movement. Maybe they get tricked by the factories too? So what lesson can we learn out of this? NEVER pay premium for a gen ETA if a clone is available and if you buy one second hand always asume it's a clone untill proven otherwise.

Thanks for bringing this to our attention!

Like Tony Soprano would say: You're entitled to S H I T! This ain't a hotline. Lock this topic.

A SD complex?

This one is not from the same factory. Forget this version. The V1 is ok. It's from the same maker as the V1 & V3 Evolution. If you're smart you wait for the V2 B01 from the 'ultimate' BCE maker .....

You can push the pin out either way. It's a pin sleeve construction. Problem is they are though as hell to get out. I broke my pin-removal tool in halve trying. In the end I had to grind a jeweler screwdriver in to a slim pin and bang the pin out with a hammer.....

They also told me the new Speedmaster auto and Broad Arrows would be released last june....