Rolexman

But does the insert have scratches?

Just spray some WD40 on the movement ... that always does the trick

Believe it or not but I'm the middle of my fall-vacation

Hmmm.. My bad. Am I that lost? I thought I tracked most of the posts regarding the 7753 but apparently I missed the most important one... duh. I edited OP as I do not want to lose face . Just see my post as a bump .

The Zigmeister did a full tear down of this much talked about new movement. Ready for the link? Here it is!

Well Rob, I think I overlooked #7. It was touching one of the studs all the time. After adjusting the stud so that the hair spring touches and then floats free the beat error improved. One thing I find peculiar is that the rate drops when shifting from dial up to crown down. Normally it gains speed.... also I find the amplitude on the low side for a freshly serviced 2892. Some ratings: Dial up +7 s/d 167 o 0.0 ms Crown down -3 s/d 166 o 0.2 ms

Yes there is (Sea-gull ST18). But this one is gen Nice buy and wear it well!

Look if the bridge of the pallet fork is screwed down tight. Be carefull not to break the pivots of the pallet fork, so make sure it is correctly seated in the upper and lower jewel. Mark.

1. done 2. rate more stable 3. beat error verry irregular. 0 dial down and 0.5 crown down 4. no mic configuration possible 5. done, no effect 6. everything perfectly centered 7. no abnormalities Now that I'm typing I think it also could be a dirty pallet fork jewel... will look at it over the weekend. Mark.

An answer by a guru it is ....Thanks! Will check it out tonight.

So I fully disassembled, cleaned and oiled an Omega calibre 1120 for a friend (and damn was it dirty). I put it back together and now the twilight-zone begins. When on the vibrograph the rate is affected by the position of the rotor.... yes, the position of the rotor. And not just a little bit. E.g. when the rotor is on top the movement runs slow and when I turn the rotor only half a turn it runs fast (movement in horizontal position). I'm out of ideas so I hope an other movement guru can give me some insight on a probable cause? Thanks in advance! Mark.

cool!

Wise decision! Good luck.

You can transfer the date wheel overlay (if there is one)... that's about the only thing you can transfer as everything else is different between those movements e.g. dial feet, hand sizes, stem, etc. Forget the transplant!

Didn't you ask the same question here? The 2824 and 2836 are similar when it comes to date wheel assembly. It's pretty straight forward. If you can get it off you can get it on. No tutorial needed. Unless there are some issues but I gave you my thought on the matter in your initial post. Apparently that wasn't satisfying.

You are a 100% right. A Chinese movement which I would not disassemble in a milion years. These movements aren't made to taken apart.

Remove the gear, it has no function as the movement does not use the day function. It's only one screw so it should not cause any problems.

The question that arrises is, why would a dealer post this? Maybe this watch is in the pipelines?

In that case, please send me some Glocks!

I live in the EU and I watch a lot of movies... that said. In most of them they make it appear guns are freely available in the US. I know it differs from state to state. In my country guns are strictly prohibited (which is a good thing imo). But a lot of felons do carry guns. On the evening news I saw some confiscated guns and amongst them there were some really exotic models like a Glock and Sig Sauer etc. That makes me wonder. Where do they get their guns? Maybe they are shipped from the US (or any other country) just like our reps? DHL at your doorstep with a AK47? .... Would like to hear your thoughts.

Normally you insert one side of the date wheel under the minute train bridge (the big silver plate near the crown) and lign the teeth of the date wheel up with the date jumper bridge. Then you pull the date jumper spring backwards in order to seat the date wheel properly. Problem is that most Rolex' come with a date wheel overlay which makes access to the date jumper spring nearly impossible. In that case you need to remove the overlay first and reglue it after you reseated the date wheel. Here's a 'but'. It could very well be some of the teeth of the date wheel are bend. I've encountered it before en due to the bend teeth the date wheel would keep popping out of the date jumper bridge. In that case you need to inspect the date wheel with a loupe and look at the jumper spring to indicate at which teeth the date wheel will pop off! Good luck

Could be the crown isn't screwed propperly on to the stem but it's more likely the keyless works are messed up. Or both? Bring it back to your 'so called' watchmaker...

Use a professional airbrush. You can regulate the paint flow much better.