Rolexman

Same here. It takes time and a lot of talking for them to understand. Eventually they will!

Read THIS. Yes, it can be done. No, it's not the right way to service a movement.

Indeed, a second hand shop. Not an AD.

Again a silly watch with a butt ugly rubber strap......

And this Tag Grand Carrera: http://www.etayahonpo.jp/?pid=7608646

Well as you might have guessed I didn't go in. I send them an Email explaining why I thought it was a rep (font, missing tick etc.). Today I got an Email back thanking me for the heads up and that they are going to thoroughly investigate the watch. They also wrote that I will be informed of the outcome....

Thanks for your input Freddy. It's an A7750 by the way.... will give it a go as soon as I have my 7750 service & repair course from Offshore. I never disassembled the auto winding module.

How severe is the scratch? For light scratches have a look at my signature. If it's a deep scratch you gonna need different polishing compounds and a Dremel. The bracelet is an easy fix as it is brushed. Buy a brush pen (click) or use a Scotch pad. Only brush in one direction.

The click wheel of the automatic winding is not "freewheeling" but is catching, therfore the rotor spins simultaneously with the hand winding making the hand winding rough/ difficult. I know my way around movements a bit so I'm looking for some DIY tips. I know I need to remove the auto winding bridge but then? ...... some pics or a small guide would be helpful. Do I grease/ graphite powder the click wheel in order for it to slip? Or do I need to do the opposite and clean it thoroughly? Thanks!!

I don't own a CC and was just too lazy to look into the the whole MoneyBoogers thing. But, I just signed up and am transferring funds to my account. I love this place with all my heart. I spend more time here than with my GF LOL. So it's well worth the money IMO! Thanks for waking me up

Damn, I like this sort of expertise

Looks great!!!! I love the Lello DW.... it looks like there is a difference in colour between the dial and the 'rehaut'. The rehaut looks whiter whereas the dial looks more like the gen , silverish.

bullsh#it.... I have had seveal machined and decorated ETA's and all had the correct marking!

You mean the tick at ten?.. indeed it's gone!!... IT'S A REP!!!!! LOL

So here I am, shopping with my girlfriend in a well known Dutch watch city. There are a lot of watch shops which I always visit (almost structured LOL). Some are well known ADs and others are shops specialized in second hand watches. All of them, including the second hand shops, are very reputable...... So when arriving at the last shop and after drooling over some IWCs in the window I saw a black TT BCE. The first thing I noticed was the crooked date, then the Asian font... hmm... this can't be fake I said to myself. I also noticed the very bad fitting of the Pilot bracelet. Could this be because the bracelet is gen and case is rep? Then I noticed the missing 'tick' at 10! WTF!? Also the light yellow subdials (instead of darker 18K gold). So I'm 99% sure this is a rep and then it's decision time! What do you do? Do you walk in? What do you say? These are the 3 pictures from the website:

Is it due to the printing the day/ date sometimes are crooked? Did you do this mod yourself? How did it turn out?

Nice!!! Your day and date look nicely centered!

Go for the panda Genuine:

Damn I miss this watch..... If K222 and Chieftang were available back then I would have never sold it.

The crystals of the Date en Pro are different. The Pro has a very noticeable domed plexiglass whereas the Date has slightly domed saphire crystal. The crystal on the rep is spot on. The only difference is the stronger one sided AR on the rep. Yes, the gen has less strong AR. Also the colour of the AR is different. The rep's AR is blue (which I like a lot) and the gen is more pink/plum and therefor hardly noticeable on the gen white Date. PS: With your wrist size I would definitely go for the Date. You won't regret it!

NICE!!!!... real diamonds? Better have that baby taxated and insured!

The ETA 7750 is considered one of the best and sturdiest chronograph movements in the world.... but hey, opinions vary. BTW: I know you can't see the oil but believe me, it's there. Even a thin film layer can cause problems. That doesn't necessarily mean it will happen in your case as I don't know how much and where you aplied the oil. I do however know that if it reaches the hair spring you're in big trouble..... Look at The Zigmeister Zumba

Chris (Eurotimes) told me his watchmaker couldn't switch the dial of this versin with the Swiss ETA 2824 version....

Watchsmiths are something like chef cooks ..... full of themselves! BTW, great story Corgi. When reading all I could think of was 'RUN Forest RUN' I had 3 experiences with watch smiths. 1. Local non branded jeweler brought my precious Breitling Chronomat GT to his watchmaker (whom I never saw) to reglue a hour marker which came loose. Back then I didn't know much about DIY so..... When I got it back it had a severely scratched case back and glue all over the dial and when I say all over I mean alllllll over. I had to sell it for a couple of $ because it didn't bring me joy anymore (which I now regret). 2. Later I brought my 4th gen PO (ETA) to a really good watchmaker which fixed the keyless works for me. It popped out after I had some troubles inserting the stem back in. It was a good and cheap fix and this guy was a real professional. Doctors coat and everything. 3. As I moved to another neighbourhood I couldn't use the good watchmaker from 2. So I whent looking for another watch smith in my neighbourhood. I thought I found a good one as he had all the credentials etc. Brought him my black BCE which broke during shippment. I could have send it back to Homer but I wanted to have it serviced anyway. So of it whent to the watchmaker. Got it back 'serviced' for less than $100. Cheap I know, but I could not help noticing that the rotor spinned everytime I hand wound the watch. I contacted The Zigmeister and he told me that's typpically for a movement that has had a swish & dip. So I whent back to the guy asked him why the rotor span when I hand wound the movement and he told me that it is probably because of the dryness of one of the geers (slipping wheel?) or the low weight ratio of the rotor. I asked him about the way he serviced the movement and he insisted he torn down the entire movement, No swish & dip....... I could leave it and he would apply some grease to a clicking wheel? After a week he called me and I could come pick it up. Off couse the problem wasn't solved........jeez.

So you still bought oil?..... jeezz.... There's a difference between oil and grease you know. Oil is way to liquid, that's why it doesn't reduce noise that well! Also the oil will spin all over the movement. Not right away but eventually after heating up and settling in. I do hope your movement will last .....