HauteHippie

Now I'm thinking used motor oil!!

Can't wait to see your V4 date window re-bevel mod. That'll take some real craftsmanship and will be impressive to say the least. I don't have the "pushed through and a bit ragged" look on my dial, so I can't say I know what you're talking about.

Pic?

Good stuff. The bezel looks great, and the AR is a huge improvement for the Breitlings!!

Hmmm, maybe smoke from an unfiltered Camel?

Indeed.... I have done the same thing. And it's incredibly close. This new white dial looks bleached. It's really just par for the course though. Fix a few things, break a few others. The bevel and shape of the date window are the next things I notice after the bleached dial, which means the black dial version will be better but still off. Not much you can do with the date window in either this version or the previous, either. Oh well. As I said... Nice watch regardless. And, as always, double AR is a must no matter which version you've got. :-)

I prefer the previous model (2nd gen) after appropriate mods are performed. This one has the better cross on the dial: Good. This one attempted the trapezoidal date window shape: Good. But it's overly exaggerated in shape (too trapezoidal): Bad. The trapezoid is so subtle on the gen, that I'd rather it be square as on the 2nd gen than overdone as on this one. The tips of the hour and minute hands are shaped incorrectly on this one: Bad. The bezel points are a bit rounded instead of looking crisp and sharp as on the 2nd gen and the gen: Bad. Also, this white dial is.... WHITE! The gen and the 2nd gen rep are slightly silverish, not bright white. So, if you're considering this model, I'd say DEFINITELY get the black dial. As far as fonts, I dunno. I can't tell. But I do agree that the date window bevel is overdone and noticeable. Though it's not the first flaw I see when I look at the watch. Genuine article below.

Moi babes... Remember, now. There are no stupid questions, only stupid people..... Errrr, wait, that's not how it goes! LOL Hope you find the laptop.

Not only that, but I hope her [censored] friend joins her in the slammer as well. Elated to see Paris back behind bars where she belongs. What kind of message did it send to let her out? Get convicted of DUI, violate probation twice, get off scot free?? This judge is my hero.

I'm far from an Omega WIS, but to me the dial on the watch in your pic is quite inaccurate. The "OMEGA Seamaster PROFESSIONAL" font is just too bold and too in-your-face bright white. The lack of AR is another glaring flaw. Gen below for comparison:

Nice pics, Nanuq. I particularly like this one. It's probably a hair (no pun intended) over sharpened, but the lighting and composition is excellent! What'd you use for a light source?

The 2836 movements use the recessed datewheels, so both Finepics' and Lello's wheels will work. The question we've run into is whether the specific 2893 that some people are trying to fit the wheels to will work, and in that case it depends on what type of wheel is in the movement to begin with. I was one of the lucky ones who had success with a Finepics wheel in a 2893 movement.

Don't sweat the SW200. The info I've seen indicates that it's up to par with ETA 282X / 283X movements. This is an area where you really can't fault the dealer IMHO.

I don't remember whose they were (I *think* they belonged to jkpadget2). But if you weren't the one who asked and paid for me to strip the coating, then I didn't touch yours.

Yea I guess you weren't clear. You described it as scratches and looking at the picture you sent me, what I saw appeared to be a uniform coating with scratches either in the coating or on the crystal itself. And, as I said, I'm unable to venture a guess as to their origin.

I can't explain the scratches. Of the roughly 80-90 crystals done so far, you seem to be the only one reporting scratches. And I really have no way of knowing if the scratches occured before or after the coating was applied. But scratching this coating takes some real effort (not to mention unintuitive behavior ), so I think it's a separate and unfortunate issue unique to your one crystal. I wish I had a better answer.

They're there. But, again, reps will be reps and it's still a handsome watch.

Any already-coated crystal must be stripped. The Navitimer was only a special case because nobody (neither the owner, nor me, nor the coating company) noticed that there was an existing coating until after it came out of the AR chamber and had turned yellow. The yellowing was due to a chemical reaction between the existing and new coatings. So when some dealers say "light AR", they're not necessarily lying!! If you can't see the rep AR coating, that doesn't mean it isn't there!!! It's just not doing much if anything in the way of inhibiting reflections.

I didn't notice any problems, and the coater didn't report any. I stripped two or three Navi crystals prior to shipping to the coater this time, though. But, going forward, that's just not something I want to continue to do.

Moi babes - I wouldn't want to make you jealous when you saw how much better looking than you I am.

Ah, FYI, I won't accept Navitimer crystals anymore unless you (or someone) has stripped the existing light AR coat that's already on them. If not stripped, the crystal will turn yellow when coated by my company. We've learned this the hard way already. I've done the stripping on a few of these myself, and while it's not terribly difficult, it's not a service I will offer.

Some definite improvements over the 2nd gen, but also some steps backward. Overall, though, still a very nice watch that is deserving of wrist time!

It's a good thing we have trusty sssurfer who knows the ins and outs of these models. I had forgotten about the small lens that increases the mag of my cyclops on the 2892... But, yes, I do now recall the beast, and someone has been able to remove it to achieve appropriate results.

Oh come on!! Nobody has pointed out that Panerai has by far the nicest Fiddy yet ? ? ?