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klocklind1
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Everything posted by klocklind1
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Hi all DLC lovers! The new pam026K looks VERY nice indeed but I have a question regaring how restitent the DLC-coating is to get scratches on it? Has the replica as hard surface as the genuine? And if You get a scratch it would be very visible because of the steal under the surface You can not really just polish/sand a DLC case can You? Please let me know because I want to buy one
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Thanks for the advice I have a crystalpress but the watch has more flaws so I might send it back to the dealer. And maybe the gasket got damages when pressed in the wrong way
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Thanks Andy But I have tried with my thumbs ( and I think I have quite strong hands/fingers ) BUT I can NOT get the crystal out of the case! Is it woth trying to press it into the right place ( I have a crystal press !) as it is now or will the crystal break instead? I am thinking of sending it back but I have not so nice experience of that
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To remoove the crystal, is it just to press it out from the back or ?
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Thanks Pete ! I think I will just do that The brooklyn bridge caseback IS very nice
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Hi all! I just got my new pam318L ( very nice pam!) but the crystal is not fitted properly So I do not want to send it back. The crystal is sticking up a lot more at one side. So what sha I do? Is it best to remove the crystal and press it again or can I just press the crystal as it is and hope it will be correct seated ?
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Hi there! I am almost 100 % sure it IS a V1 WM9 ( TW ) because the serialnumber looks like it is from the WM9 batch with individual numbers on them And I think it comes from PT precious time as he is one of the few that uses this decorated swiss 2836-2 movement And last I just bought my second one of thoose from PT with his latest batch ( januari 2011 ) that is without engraved rehaut and the right datefont and the new crystal with most correct crystal and perfect magnification on the lope!) . It has the Z "S" in submariner It is a VERY nice sub with the BEST endlinks out there and is a keeper for sure
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ETA 2678-2/2836-2 in the WM9 V2 photo's?
klocklind1 replied to CaptainJack's topic in The Rolex Area
Yes and the 2836-2 ( right size!) is better than the smaller 2678-2 -
Is the rep 005 lume really as good as gen?
klocklind1 replied to mjmurphy926's topic in The Panerai Area
Ny genuine 111M does not glow as bright as my 177L with a backplate lumed by vacclume. But on the genuine sandwich-dials the lume is recessed into the backplate not ON TOP of the dial so the lume is more close to the topplate and glows more!!! -
That is one of my favorite watches Then buy an individual ti caseback from jakob for it and You have a superreplika
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Pictorial: My first rep purchase of 2011 - PAM005K
klocklind1 replied to burnz's topic in The Panerai Area
I would buy it from Tony ( asian7750.com ) as he has great service and is fast! And he is one of the cheapest also at 198 $ BUT You have to ask for QC-pictures from him! I got my 005 today together with a pam177L that he had in stock when the other dealers did not have any in stock -
Check up the straps from Steinhart watches as they also come from the Rios factory
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panerai 177L ... did you ever polished Ti ?
klocklind1 replied to deniz21's topic in The Panerai Area
Some may think it looks better polished than the "matte" finish but remember that You probably NEVER will be able to make look like it was before this polishing But it certenly was brave of You to try this Thanks for posting it! Wear it well -
OK thanks Hugo! I think that will not be a problem then, BUT to press the genuine hands on the genuine movement can be tricky, I think as the genuine hands fits quite hard on the genuine movement I have heard! Sometimes You have to use a brotch to make the holes in the hands a little bigger !
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Is there any difference on the SWISS eta 7750 ?
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Thanks a LOT for that GREAT info
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Hi there! Have been looking for some imformation regarding how to change the day/datewheel on an swiss eta 7750 but with no luck And what I shall think of when doing it ! Can someone please help me find some imformation about it
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I ALWAYS use a rubberball and that has always worked for me And You will NEVER scratch the caseback And last always use some silicon graese on the o-ring to make it more waterproof!
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WM9 makes both dials but the flat "S" dial is not superlumed and had not as good ( crisp and sharp !) printing as the WM9 superlumed LV and sub dial.
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269£ shipped
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It IS the same but without the engraved rehaut. But I put an other dial on it, an LV dial
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Review: 111J from Noob factory vs 177L from Hublot maker
klocklind1 replied to babola's topic in The Panerai Area
I do not know when they changed but sometimes the dialprint color is more white ? Look at the 177L on Joshuas slideshow comparing the genuine against the rep 177L and the text looks more white than yellow but most of the genuine pam 177 I have seen has yellowish color on the text! But the color can be soooo dificult judge by looking on photos as the white balance is most of the time set incorrect -
Review: 111J from Noob factory vs 177L from Hublot maker
klocklind1 replied to babola's topic in The Panerai Area
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Review: 111J from Noob factory vs 177L from Hublot maker
klocklind1 replied to babola's topic in The Panerai Area
The text color IS almost the same as the genuine ( just bought a 111M series and I can say that the textcolor IS almost exactly the same as the genuine! ) The lumecolor as the 177L is to Yellowish in daylight ( and not as white as the genuine!) so I have a mix on my 177L with a 111J dial with a vacclumed backplate ( with not as thick lume to make it look more deep at the indexes!) with the more correct lumecolor, see my post regarding my new 177L! BUT the worst thing is that both the 177L and the 111J and the 219L has a dialcolor that is not as black in the color as the genuine that is clearly more black But otherwise they all are VERY nice watches BUT if You whnt it to be perfect You have to use a GENUINE dial! -
On some computers the pictures RESIZE automatically but sometimes not