klocklind1

Movementshot here it comes:

Thanks alligot! This insert is VERY close to the genuine I think and I managed to mount the geniune pearl in a good way! I like the LV dial more than the standard sub ( I have the V3 sub also but I like this one more!) because of the maxidial and hands!

No that IS a WM9 LV dial that is better than the noob

Hi Pam lovers! Here is my latest pam 177L with some mods: It has one of thoose SWISS eta with swanneck that is long gone ( it is one of the DSN movements from 2006 !) It has the ( more correct noob 111J dial and I have used the backplate from another sandwichdial that was superlumed by vacclume. The lume is not as THICK as the 177L lume so it looks more genuine looking ( makes the DEEPTH of the numbers look better!) The 177L lumecolor in DAYLIGHT is to Yellow so I wanted a more genuine looking lume color! Yes the lume is "almost" as the genuine in the DARK BUT in daylight both the 219L and the 177L has to much of a Yellow tone And I think the black color on the dial is too greyish compared to my genuine pam 111M BUT it has the correct COLOR of the fonts as the genuine But all in all it certenly IS a superreplica and the best titanium pam made to date Here is the pictures of it! The first picture is the 177L dial and the other one is my customdial

Hi all! Just wanteed to show my latest sub! It is the latest WM9/TW sub from PT ( Precious time!) It is the version WITHOUT the engraved rehaut ( YES he could get some of this version!) It has a LV dial/hands and has a genuine insert ( no just kidding as it only the pearl that IS genuine, but I like the result very much!) The crystal is the "new" one that is THE closest to genuine looking crystel next to a genuine. It has rounded edges and a little more magnifying that is clooser to the genine and the rolexcrown is VERY faint and VERY nicely etched and I like it VERY much. I have not filed the CG but it does not bother me but will probably change to a genuine crown ! The datefont IS the same on this one as WM9 and is VERY accurate ( the "7" has the small "edges" at the ends !) All in all I am VERY pleased with this sub. And PT is a joy to buy from Now to the pictures ( warning BIG files:

BK is a GREAT man to buy the best subs from I bought both the WM9 LV and the V3 sub and could not be more happy with them Regarding the crystal it SURE looks better than even the Clark crystal Wear it well

YES Concepta can make Your dream come true

Hi all Is there anyone that has a pam 219L dial to sell ?

Mickey is a true gentlemen for sure I have used my BK YM in a several Rolex AD shops and I am sure they could not see that my YM was a replica Sometimes the metal ring round the indexes can be a little to thick but most of the dials have the right thickness!!! This one looks GREAT Wear it well

J / I think that a genuine crystal is more imortant on a sub and a genuine dial would be looking REALLY nice

On the genuine pam the roller ( on the CG!) is almost invisible as it is SOOOOOOOOO nicely done

If the coilspring IS tangeld then it ca be worth try this when the movement is NOT running: You look at the coilspring and see if it looks like it is "overlapping" somewhere. If it looks like that then try to separate the coilspring very carefully with a very small screwdriver or sharp toothpick so there is a little "space between the all of the "turns" of the coilspring. I have also read that You can tap the case a couple of times and see if the coilspring turns freely! I had a pam 177L that I was just going to send back when I tryed both of the above metods and suddenly when I winded the moement it started to work as it should! Good luck and use a loupe when You work with the coilspring!

Andy I think I have that problem on my brand new pam177L and was going to send it back to the dealer but it looks very nice so if there is a solution to fix it easy I would love to find that thread! I have already tried to adjust the balancearms as cloose as possible to make it go slower but it still is way to fast!

What do You mean by that?

BTW what did You use to increase the distance to the case ?

Looks nice But the CG on this pam has a roller cam-arm so when I tried with an extra gasket the arm was pressing VERY hard on the tube( BUT the distance to the case did increase!) and I think that the higher pressure will eventually make the worn and wobbly The T:s T48 titanium crown is better than this one but is not springloaded for CG

Yes I am 100 % sure as I already got the pictures of the actual watch I will get It looks exactly like the sub supreme he has on his website but without the engraved rehaut, and comes with the nice decorated SWISS eta 2836-2 ( not a asian clone eta!) But he only got 10 watches totally without the engraved rehaut But pm him if we can get more of them It is a VERY nice sub

Nice sub You there ! I will get my WM9 V1 with the flat S dial( without engraved rehaut!) next week from PT. It sure is one of the best subs made

Regarding the lug screws, on my 177L the lug screws is absolutely the best I have had ( including the new 219L! ) so fine threads And the CG pin is absolutely flat on mine as well! So You must have got a case with a little more bad threads Be VERY careful when screwing in the screws as the titanium ( used in watch-cases!) is softer than the steel ones! But it a gamling with replicas that how it is! Some have got VERY nice CDG engraving on the bridges on the movement on the 111J and some have got the "standard" engraving BUT You got a nice sample of Your 111J

I heard that as the noobfactory came out first with a "Ultimate" 111 the Hublot factory "changed its mind and made the 219L instead!!!!!

It is at least as good as the 177L so I am sure will be happy with also

No problem Pete! I got my 219L yesterday and got it in FOUR days from Tony It certenly IS a VERY nice pam

Sorry I did not ment to make anyone to feel bad

How about this one ? http://www.steinhartwatches.de/index.php?id=67&artnr=308&Sel_ID=20&Sel_Cat_ID=1#308

Hi R My 177L caseback was almost impossible to take of but tried a litte ( just a little on a needle) anti-rustoil and I managed to get it unscrewed But when I had adust the movement ( +4 sec/24H !) which I did a lot of times as I do not have timing machine, so because of that I had to open and close the caseback several times and now it is quite easy to open/close the caseback But I think that silicon grease can help on the threads be caseful not to use oil as it can get i to the movement