Suchecracks

I have allready did some advertising for you :-) I have visited th factory that builds the genuine MBs! It is all handwork, the complete pen is build by hand - it is real craftmansship! They are worth every penny! And no way they only cost 10 $ for the company - sorry but this is [censored]! There is only handwork, everything is done manually and not in Asia ore somewhere else for 10cents an hour! ...and by the way: none of my MBs is leaking - neither is one of my colleagues...

The ice is broken I too think they are lousy! The overall quality is not even closed to a cheap market-pen. The transitions (?) bewteen the black material and the metall-rings are rought and sharp-edged. It is close to impossible to twist the pen in order to get the ballpoint out. No comparission to my genuine MBs, not at all, not even closed! The clips are solid on my gen. Meisterst

Try this link: http://photobucket.com/mediadetail/?media=...mp;pageOffset=2

Thanks a lot for this info. As I read in the topic you kindly linked: they are 100% interchangable ragarding hands, dialfeet, datewheel, size? Thanks once again!

see below: stem position is different The worse I can imagine is a spacer between the movement and dial and a datewheel overlay to not have the date recessed. Thats the way they do it on the Super Sea-Dweller - thus making it impossible to get the hour hand of without scratching the Dial because its way too closed to it. But may be I am wrong... For me it is a big issue, because with the ETA 2824 you could just swap the movement with the generic - a nice and easy done frankenproject. With the ETA 2836 the swap will be more difficult because of the different stem position.

No I am not mistrusting him, just want to make shure to look for the right replacement. Another pic of the amrkings and where they should be:

Hi there, I have just received a watch from a member, unfortunately its a DOA. Just figuring out what to do, and cannot reach him so I am already doing some research: Does this look like a swiss ETA 2824 as it's supposed to be, and as he sold it: I doesnt say anything on it, dont the swiss ones have a amrk saying "2824"? Why does it say "26 jewels" - the 2824 only has 25 jewels as far as I know? If its another movement, what is it? Thanks for your help once again. regards BJ PS: it is not my intention to denounce the seller, as I hope he did send a working watch. Therefor I neither naming him nor the watch. But since he was having problems with this particular movement before, I am rather planing to swap the movement.

My watchsmith says: no difference at all. The only risk is the reset as Seadweller4000 explainid - but the work-around to fix it is (also explained by Seadweller4000) has been working great on my old genuine Certina. By the way: when I was paid hourly back the college days, I have used the chrono to time my 10hour-shift and stop it during coffee brakes....never encountered any problems. But slowed the watch about 1 second in two days.

It comes with a Swiss ETA-2836-2 - dindt the "old" one come with a 2824? Which would be a better because the gen comes with the same movement. Not much a difference but still nice to have the "same" movement.

Stay away with you watches from the company formerly known as SINN :-) And render homage to the real SINN:

Is changing the dial just an emotional thing? As for I cant really see a difference between the gen and rep dial. Anyway - a great watch either way! I owned the gen and have the rep now - onlay thing I would change is the bezel and insert. ...and eventually the movement but as long as the asian does as well as it does right now.

My all time favorit:

I am barely any longer here - anyway: welcome! I do like SINN a lot too but not since Helmut left there - now I am more into chronosport/guinand. If you call there early in the morning the chances are high you will have Helmut Sinn himself (he is over 91!) answering the call and you might have the best "watch-conversation" of your life (should take your time, as he does). Edit: LINK addded http://www.guinand-watch.com/

Well as I believe thats the way it works. I dont expect QC like on a gen and if I want a perfect watch, I will visit my AD! I dont thinks the watches are expensive either. Where do I geht a 300m waterproof, well timekeeping chronograph with a mechanical movement for as little 300 USD besides in the repworld? Okay its pretty much the same price as for the russion "poljot" watches but they come with the same QC und reliability issues. If you stick to common movements like the ETA or Valjaux every watchsmith can help you for little money - and most of them will surely do, as they are facing hard times with all the people going for fancy looking but cheap and quarzdriven "stylewatches". My experiences arent good either: Dealer 1: super Sea-Dweller - really deep scratch (lot of material missing) in the bracelet - coplained - answer: "this is very minor flaw" - took me hours of filing, sanding, buffing, polishing to get rid of it Dealer 2: vintage submariner -right and left crownguards not equal, thread crookedly attached to the case ->didnt complain as I was only heading for the dial and bracelet anyway - and discoverd the flaws later on when I wanted to use the case for another project Dealer 3 (Homer): Omega SMP Chronograph -nothing to complain - perfect watch indeed! That makes it one out of three! Still I am satisfied and would be buying again from all of the three - the products there are offering are unique - the only alternative is the AD. As for me I use the reps for kind of "trail for he real thing". So i found out, that I am not wearing a SD as too extrovert for my taste...that the SMP chrono is way too big for my wrist...I dont like the cyclops of the subs... All three wathes where on my wishlist (as gen), I have tried all of them several time at the AD - but only the long time trial with a rep helped me to evaluate.

I cannot speak for the particlular watch, probably noone can becaus you never know what the rep-dealers will send you. But I can talk for my so called "Super Sea-Dweller and my MBW 5513: 1.Band... Neither one does, both are rocksolid and heavy. 2. side of the band On the SD the sides are plolished. (The MBW has a vintage style one) 3. The cyclops seem uncentered. This is often mentioned in various threads. as for me, I didnt take the risk and went for the SD and 5513, neither on has got a cyclops. 4. The bezel click sounds and feels way different from the GEN. The 5513 does not click at all, but the SD does. I wouldnt say "plasticky" but a bit less "softly" than the gen. (can only compare to a 16610gen, should be the same as 16600?) 5. the date changed at 9:00 in the morning well in the repworld something like QC seems to be scratched out of the dictionary. This does not necessarily mean, that it is not an ETA. The reason is simple: the hands ar set wrong - nothing a watchsmith couldnt fix in a few minutes.

If already lying, why not doing it right Especially with the rotor looking alike a rolex movement it would be nice having a rolex movement number on it rather then a fake ETA number... Well those rep-watchmakers mysterious... ...RLX crownguards always wrong, changing datewheels to the worse, stopping production of best sellers, never ever having a fitting bezelpearl...

May be too expensive? Whats the price the seller is asking? As for me: I love this one! The silver bezel really makes it a "friendly" watch - much better than the blue or black.

I have trid all: homer, precious time and narikaa. All of them take 3-4 days to germany, all are based in the UK. I havent orderd from outside the EU because I have a lot of experience with ordering gens from outside the EU, regardless of whats written on the declaration: they've always picked my watches so far! Therefor I will never ever order a rep from outside the EU. But if some people can contribute good experience from orders outside the EU, and even better: how problems with customs can be handled best - go ahaed :-)

Hi everyone! Dont you think it would be a good Idea to establish a serial number data base? This way we could easily check generics for possible fakes, and also build up a data base with information where that watch is probably from ragarding the reps? For example: Rolex 1111111 -> Noobmariner Case 16610 2222222 -> Super Seadweller Case Breitling 333333 -> cheap canal street Avanger and so on. Everyone would be asked to put down the numbers from his collection and we vould even sneak numers from the dealers pictures, this way we will have valid data in no time @all. This idea seems so apparent to me, I wonder whether its allready done somewhere... Regards BJ

Thanks Andre - so its chinese. That explains the false label on it Is it common that they label there movement as something they are not?

Hi there, I am just cleaning out my watchbox to decide whats for sale and whats trash. The following question: I got this movement saying "2836-2" - but it does not look like the ETA 2836 I found on the net: It is keeping good time and the rotor makes a decent sound when spinning. Please helb me out identifying. THANKS! regards BJ

Is that you asking for the serial here: http://watchnetwork.com/ClassiApp/ClassiDi...and=&start= If not I would be quite careful with serial numbers having too many hits on google. More hits = more often used serial = well speaks for itself

What an awesome watch! Congrats! You guys drive me crazy here - once I have ordered a watch...I have allready spotted the next one. Good that I will be leaving for X-Mas-vacation soon...this will be a desperately needed cool-off-period!

I have go this one: its not sonic but mechanical. I hardly used it lately because I am quite anoyed by the noise it makes esp. in the morning . BUT it cleanes well - the brushes are expensive as hell! Since I need a new one every two years because the battery is dying (braun ofers a swap of the hole handset for little money nut I want the newest modell) I will head for the sonic one which is described as less noisy and mor like an ordinary brush. So my suggestion is: go for the sonic care!

To clean the crystal inside you open the casback, take out the movement and voila there you are - inside. (quite a few "how-to"s are to be find within this page)