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Starting a thread so that RWG members can post a pic of what is currently on their watch winder this month This is a great way to show not only your automatic watches but also show the variety of winders used among RWG members This Gif image is just an example, there are both smaler and larger winders than this. NB! Watch boxes may also be shown in this thread too if you do not have a winder. No problem. Ok so I am first one out. This is my winder today 02.08.2022.

Ladies and Gentlemen, I'm considering picking up a vintage or semi-vintage Omega Speedmaster - GENUINE - Question is, manual or automatic? Please weigh in

I have recently fairly rapidly been adding to my collection of (mainly) reps and homage type watches. I have bought some nice examples of several makes from Silix, Military Time and Perfect Clones, all of which I can recommend. I now want a good U-Boat rep, preferably of the 'Left-Hook' type. However, it seems that most gen U-Boat Left-Hooks on sale today are quartz movement types. I distinctly don't want any more quartz types as my perhaps twisted logic tells me that if I have several watches that I wear on different occasions, the automatic types fit the bill better as they are mostly stored in my watch box and are not operating and wearing out when they are not being worn. So the question I have is this. If I buy a replica automatic Left-Hook from (say) Silix, will it it be a copy of a genuine watch, available either today or in the past? Any help will be appreciated. BTW, reps are getting better and better IMHO, especially some of the less expensive ones. Ciao. Clive.

Hi all! I just received a IWC Big Pilot 5019 Miramar from Joshua and I love this watch. It looks great! However, the automatic winding rotor makes a clicking, grinding noise with every movement. It sounds like a manual wind (amplified by the big case), except it happens every time I move my arm! I have plenty of other automatics and am used to the whir of a winding rotor, but have never heard this gear clicking before. And I've tried searching the forums and online for a solution but it most of the noise complaints are of the whirring or rattling kind. It's a little hard to describe, so I've attached a couple of videos to show what I'm talking about. As you will be able to hear, it is so loud even when moved gently, that the watch is basically unwearable right now. Any advice anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated... Thanks in advance! PS I asked Joshua about this, and sent him a video: he said it was normal noise and just louder because of the big case... but none of my other Autos have ever done it, so there must be a way to at least improve it! IMG_4507.MOV.mov IMG_4516.MOV.mov

All is Lost - Robert Redford with blue Nato on SKX175 (SKX009) Finally got around to see this great movie from one of my all-time favourite actors Robert Redford (Three Days of the Condor/ Spygame/Sneakers/Havana/The last Castle and many others). Movie full of fast watch-action flashes: a Man, the Sea… and his watch. Thought it could be an IWC Aquatimer on a blue Nato – too expensive again, although it wasn´t… http://watchesinmovies.info/tag/seiko/ and one clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=MiQOQ-Vyabg It´s a Seiko SKX175 divers, the US version of the same model SKX009. While the SKX173 has squared markers, the SKX175 has rounded markers and is identical to the SKX009 except for all of the country of manufacture labelling. To me the markers still look square. As I was going to order a day-date Steinhart alternative sometime from Creation Watches to EU anyway, just checked availability and got the last one (sold out now) on a jubilee bracelet for EUR 133,- shipped with DHL in 4 days – great price also! Really blown by the affordable price You can get a good-looking, true waterproof and lumibrite diver gen with fast shipping and in-house-built-movement. This should arrive by Thu. and than hang in customs for another 3-4 weeks, estimate a 30%-35% tax and fees, let´s see the outcome. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yy-wpE7aIc These are the specs: Seiko Automatic Diver SKX009K2 SKX009K SKX009. Take this Seiko Diver as technology housed in a fortress to withstand the bumpy sides of recreation. It’s stylishly rugged and bears the Seiko hallmarks allover; from the Hardlex crystal to the LumiBrite paint - to say the least, it shows being sophisticated is not against being strong and resilient. You can check that once down to 660 feet under water, if you must.Features:Type: DiversMovement: AutomaticCalibre: 7S26Crystal: HardlexDial: Dark BlueBezel: Red and blue unidirectional bezelCase: Stainless steelCase diameter: 42mmCase thickness: 13mmWater resistance: 200metersBracelet width: 22mmBracelet/Strap: Stainless steel bracelet - See more at: http://www.creationwatches.com/products/seiko-divers-60/seiko-automatic-divers-200m-jubilee-bracelet-skx009k2-skx009-712.html#sthash.43F8FRoU.dpuf backdraws: no hand-winding, no hacking seconds, could gain/loose 20 secs a day As all this was amazingly un-complicated and fast until now just wanted to share. Will keep You updated how this works out. Congrats for those of You who already have this, wouldn´t mine some more comments/pics/ infos/ reviews to increase the appetite:)

I have been lurking RWG for quite some time but today I finally made an account. I believe that I have come to a decision for my first rep purchase being the IWC Portofino Automatic SS Black. I will probably purchase this from Andrew but before I do was wondering if anybody here as bought one of these before and can vouch for them? Looks pretty spot on to me other than not quite as dark and the 12 is slightly off. This isn't the case in other pictures though? pics of rep vs real:

Hi All I hope you guys can help me out here - I have an Omega Seamaster Cosmic 2000 [60m/200ft Model] in fairly good condition and totally original. I have just had the watch serviced at a cost of £175 but as I am looking to sell it, I need to know what it is worth. I have been offered £1250 for it by one gentleman but then a guy in Australia has been in touch and offered me close to £1900, so now I am stuck as I do not want to sell it for £1250 if its worth more. It needs nothing doing to it for it is in very good condition considering its 40 years old. The movement (1021) I have been told is in mint condition and looks as though it has never had any work done on it at all, in fact it looks as though the watch has never been opened before [until it was serviced] The bezel has a few spots on it, but nothing serious and in my own opinion, the bezel adds to the patina, making this watch look fantastic. Please, if anyone knows what these are fetching I will list on eBay and hope that its worth more than the £500 it stands me at (I took it in on a part exchange against a Rolex Datejust) Thanks to all that have read this and a massive THANKS to anyone that can help me out!

So after loosing my awesome Tag Heuer Calibre 1 rep a few weeks back (stupid me, I left it on my car while putting on sun screen at the grand cannon and drove off), I decided to hop back into the rep game. I purchased the version 2 of IWC Marck XVI Spitfire from a trusted dealer. I am very happy with the look of the watch but it is running VERY slow. I've been wearing the watch for about 10 days now and still no improvement that I can find. I watched it the past 2 hours and it lost ~30 seconds in this time. I emailed the dealer and his response was to manually wind the watch for 5 days and slap it against my palm. I've done this now for the past 4 days but nada. Some questions: 1) I want to make sure that I am manually winding this correctly. To do so, I am unscrewing the crown to position #1. Position #2 changes the date, position #3 changes the time. Then, in position #1, I am spinning the crown clockwise 30-50 times. Is this correct? 2) I read online that it sometimes take 30 days for the oils to spread out through the gears. Is this correct? Would I really expect a watch this slow to slowly fall into a good rhythm over 30 days? 3) in my QA pictures the AMP was shown as 327. That seemed high to me and I raised my concern with the dealer. The response was: "the higher the better....we have now sent you this watch". Could the high AMP be to blame? 4) Assuming the watch remains this slow, do trusted dealers ever take care of this issue (either through an exchange or paying for servicing)? Thanks all for the help!