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Hi, could some one please tell wich crystal press and die diameter works best to replace a Rolex Submariner 16610 crystal retaining ring. My TC 16610 crystal pop as I try to remove the bezel. Thanks

Good news everyone! So I get asked about this issue on a fairly regular basis, and I don't think that bumping my older threads is a good way to alleviate the confusion on this subject. The truth is always somewhere in the middle and this is no exception. This is a long read, for which I apologize, but maybe you'll find something that you didn't think of before. I'm going to combine from several of my posts and private discussions so this may look familiar to some of you. The data is collected over a pretty sizable chunk of time, all first hand with my own tools, and I would estimate from close to a 100 watches or in that ballpark. First some numbers and findings: Crystal diameter on manual wind models (3.5mm center thickness): o OEM Panerai 35.50-35.52mm o Aftermarket/replica 35.49mm to 35.57mm \_ this varies slightly, but more so on the plus side, e.g. I encounter a lot more 35.53mm crystals than 35.49mm ones. Crystal I-ring gasket thickness: o OEM Panerai - 0.56mm o C3 - 0.56mm * o Noob 111J - 0.39-0.42mm o Noob 005/111/112/219M - 0.37-0.40mm o Noob 005/112/111N v3 - 0.49-0.50mm o H-F all models: L, K, M & N - 0.49-0.53mm Crystal I-ring height: o Between 1.00 and 1.25mm will work with any case crystal bed. * C3 gasket is OEM size and thus will only fit a JimmyzFu or OEM case. Secondly, you cannot underestimate the importance of using a good crystal press to do all of your installs. If you're a weekend warrior and can't justify getting a Bergeon or another good quality press, do not get the $15-25 presses from eBay with all-nylon dies. The following two presses are the next best thing on a budget - 1, 2. I recommend getting both as the dies are interchangeable and sometimes when you need a bit more oomph use an alloy die from the pliers press. Also, if you create your account on WatchBitz and then email Alan about getting a RG/RWG discount, he'll set you up so you see lower prices in your cart automatically. If after reading this you feel this exercise is not for you, have someone with a good press install the crystals for you because guess what - there are no readily available gasket replacements anywhere. You mess up a gasket, you might as well toss the case. You may get lucky with some DSN or CousinsUK gaskets, for example Cousins p/n: IG363355C1 sometimes works in Noob 111J and 111M cases but there is never any guarantee either will fit in your specific case. Reason for this is simple, though PAM reps are better today than ever before, we're still having all the same issues we had 8 years ago. The tolerances have gotten higher due to better machining, but we also have ten times more combinations of parts available. Multiple models from the two major factories came off different masters/molds, several crystal manufacturers have been employed along the way, and don't forget custom and boutique makers like C3, LH, JF, Taka, DSN, etc. Moreover, there's an ever-present x factor, which in reality is nothing more than a combination of inconsistencies working against you. They are usually a slightly over-sized crystal, a slightly tighter than spec case rehaut, a slightly thicker gasket or not enough give in the gasket. To illustrate this better, stay with me through this exercise as the below scenario is common. You are installing a H-Factory crystal in your new Noob case; the crystal happens to be 35.54mm instead of 35.50mm, your Noob case crystal bed is 36.25mm instead of the usual 36.30mm, BUT the gasket in your case just so happens to be 0.40mm on the nose. Result - you won't be able to install this one. Your gasket needs to be 0.22 to 0.25mm thick at the most in order to offset the tolerances on other parts. Once you start doing the math it becomes obvious why you have this issue: (35.54-35.50)*2 + (36.30-36.25)*2 = 0.18mm, that's how much thinner the gaskets needs to be for your crystal to fit. There are no gaskets that are that thin or can get squeezed that much. Thirdly, and equally as important as all of the points above, you need to make sure that if you or anyone else took out your crystal gasket for any reason, when you go to put it back in the case - it's getting put back the right way up. In a perfect scenario your case has a proper spec. crystal bed, you have a mint original gasket that came with the case and you have a crystal that's not overly gigantic - 35.50-35.53mm. You go to instal and pinch and crease the gasket because you didn't check the orientation. Pick up a jewelers loupe and take a good look at the inside of the gasket. What happens when the crystal is pressed in for the first time is the "I" gasket becomes squeezed into an "L" gasket. Some nylon gets pushed down and forms a tiny ledge that lives comfortably in the bottom bevel of the crystal. It's not hard to miss this tiny amount of extra nylon when you're replacing the gasket, but it makes all the difference. This ledge always needs to end up on the bottom. To recap, for a successful crystal install the following are essential: 1) Original gasket that came with your case in good condition, no pinches, creases or flats. 2) Good quality crystal press with alloy or brass inlay dies. 3) Correct orientation of the gasket inside crystal bed. 4) Non-gigantic crystal is also a plus, I have a 35.57mm crystal sitting in my box, it's never getting installed. In conclusion, it must be said that if you have all the parts in front of you, and you have a digital caliper precise to 1/100ths of a mm, it will take a minute to figure out if it's a doable job beforehand. Thank you for reading and I hope I didn't bore you too much.

A member sent me this link. Any of you Rolex experts ever heard of these crystals? Please chime up. Thanks! http://www.startimesupply.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY_X&Store_Code=1&Category_Code=1D_Rolex_Crystal_Sapp-CY-GMT&Product_Code http://www.startimesupply.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY-30&Store_Code=1&Category_Code=1H-Parts-Gaskets-Crystal-Rolex&Product_Code

Hey guys! I'm sorry but I have been searching the various fora and not finding an answer. I'm trying to replace the T27 on my MBW with a Clark T39. I was able to remove the crystal retaining ring but the crystal would't come out just by pulling. So then I removed the movement and tried to apply pressure from inside with my thumbs but not a single budge. Tried to pry it up from the sides but couldn't get anything underneath it. What else can I try?

So I finally received a perfectly sized 31,09mm flatter replacement plexi - but managed to just break the original one by pressing from the inside. Reglue or replace (and how?) I still don´t get out the retaining ring nor can I loosen it with a carpet knife or caseback opener (and I´m not sure which the retaining ring is). Where exactly should I start to push from the outside or inside and where? This is a Cartel 5513, all rings are metal. If I just stop and don´t do anything more, I´d be able to just reglue the one that was in as it´s an irregular but even break all around and it can´t be seen if the bezel assembly goes back on. Just might add, I don´t have a crystal press either, as I like to use tools I´m able to find around the house. The original idea was to press it in using a miniature anvil that has rubber protectors on the borders. I´m feeling lost here and missing the watch, please help.

Hi, I have a surprisingly nice PO 42mm with the DG4813 movement that looks and works very well (hell, even the crown screws down without hassle)! However, the crystal har AR that looks pretty bad and scratches when you just look at the watch. After wearing it one day it had noticeable scratches along the top of the crystal, without me bumping into anything. I've heard that the sunnydale crystals are good replacements, but he has sold all of them. I'm therefore thinking of buying a gen crystal from cousins. Does anyone know if it will fit perfectly on this model? This is the model: http://www.p-cls.com/omse00257-planet-ocean-ssss-asian-4813-28800-p-9577.html

Historically, the most glaring issue with all PAM reps that came with a date has always been the magnifier or the cyclops, sometimes coupled with an incorrect calendar wheel font and boldness. Ultimate reps that came out as early as 2008 have began to address this concern with a true to OEM crystal design where the cyclops is recess-milled and is made from the the same piece of corundum as the rest of the crystal along with better magnification and more correct datewheel fonts. Today, the new lines of reps from both leading makers have improved on the size of the cyclops, A/R coating, overall clarity, magnifying power, crispness, color and alignment of the datewheel print. Essentially, I can honestly say they've dialed in the the optics 85% to OEM. But the devil is in the details. The remaining 10-15% can be achieved by addressing one last issue. It's the same issue that existed in both makers reps for a long time, actually since the first ultimate OEM construction crystals were introduced. I can't say if the issue is still present in all models but it's definitely there on the flagship H-F PAM88I and Noob PAM29M v2 which is likely one of the most advanced of the recently released models. The problem lies in the finishing of the surface of the sidewall bore around the cyclops. The diamond cutter marks are polished out on the genuine OP crystal and thus are transparent. Yes, it's as simple as that. You will notice how the edges of the genuine crystal cyclops look like the edges of an underwater air bubble when viewed from the top or the face of the watch. Most reps I've seen new and old, as well as the above mentioned reps specifically, have the cutter bore marks left untouched so you can clearly see the white halo ring marking the edge of the cyclops that gets wider as you turn the watch and look at it at an angle. The bored out sidewall of the rep cyclops looks frosted, similarly to the side edge of the crystal so on a double-radius crystal like the Noob PAM29 and I would guess H-F 90I/222I that lacks the magnifier effect, the halo is rather pronounced, more so than on traditional lens shaped crystals. Reason is, the traditional lens crystal has magnification power that makes it appear thinner. When you look at watches with a lens shaped crystal at an angle -their rehauts look shallower for this reason. Hence the frosted bore of the cyclops also will look a bit shallower. Here's a couple of hasty photos so you don't fall asleep completely reading my opus. *CliffsNotes: New HF/Noob crystals with cyclopses still have a halo and don't look as great as OEM because the bore wall of the recessed cyclops is left with an unpolished frosted-looking finish similar to the edge of the crystal. OEM OP crystal w/ a 6mm cyclops, underside to show the polished bore: OEM OP crystal w/ a 6mm cyclops, topside: Noob PAM29M v2 crystal w/ a 6mm cyclops, underside to show the frosted bore: Noob PAM29M v2 crystal w/ a 6mm cyclops, topside to show the white halo: