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You guys that choose DSSD/SD over subs or subc is it mainly due to the cyclops issues or what is it that makes those models more appealing? I notice more of the former being sold or traded but noob v2 for example tends to rarely come up. Just curious what your thinking was when deciding to buy one over the other.

Hello All! I am extremely new to this but I am a huge fan of the Rolex Submariner with Black Dial Ceramic Bezel. I am reading these posts and have no idea what BP and Noob mean. . . I am trying to find the best Replica out there..Correct bezel, Face Font, Chromolite Lume, Aligned Pearl, AR Crystal, 2.5X cyclops, date font, Correct bracelet with glidelock clasp and markings, best size and weight, and of course movement.. Which should I buy and who should I buy it from?? I've been looking at Trusty Time's website...Does he sell the best? Let me know! All your help is huge, and if any of you have pics that would be great.

I've seen pictures of this ProHunter GMT on both here and RepGeek (posted by projectologist). The AR just seems to be incredible. Not only does the crystal vanish but the cyclops seems to retain the "black hole" effect. I have a ProHunter sub that I don't wear purely because the crystal is terrible. The glare off the cyclops is so bad I can't even read the date unless I turn it to just the right angle. I'd love to somehow get a crystal similar to the one on Projectologists ProHunter GMT on my ProHunter Sub. Does anyone have any idea how to get this done? In his post, Projectologists lists that the crystal was double AR coated on both sides. While I believe it was my gut tells me that the crystal must have also been additionally AR coated under the cyclops to add the blackhole effect. I was thinnking that ideally I would take a crystal that already has an AR'd cyclops, like the ones from BigCrown (I actually have one already) and have the whole thing additional double AR coated. The problem is that it's a gen spec crystal and I'm not sure if that will fit in the noob sub, which the ProHunters are based on. Anyone know whether a gen spec crystal can be stuffed into a noob sub? I thought I saw a tutorial on here where someone shows how to take apart a noob sub and replace the crystal with a Clarks (gen spec) crystal by remvoing it through the case back. Anyone run across this thread? Assuming it fits do you think that double AR coating a BigCrown "black hole" crystal would give me a similar result? My other option would be to take out the crystal that came with my ProHunter sub and have it double AR coated but my gut tells me that's not going to give me the "black hole" effect. Can someone who's knows more about AR than me help guide me in the right direction or just chime in with your thoughts?

Historically, the most glaring issue with all PAM reps that came with a date has always been the magnifier or the cyclops, sometimes coupled with an incorrect calendar wheel font and boldness. Ultimate reps that came out as early as 2008 have began to address this concern with a true to OEM crystal design where the cyclops is recess-milled and is made from the the same piece of corundum as the rest of the crystal along with better magnification and more correct datewheel fonts. Today, the new lines of reps from both leading makers have improved on the size of the cyclops, A/R coating, overall clarity, magnifying power, crispness, color and alignment of the datewheel print. Essentially, I can honestly say they've dialed in the the optics 85% to OEM. But the devil is in the details. The remaining 10-15% can be achieved by addressing one last issue. It's the same issue that existed in both makers reps for a long time, actually since the first ultimate OEM construction crystals were introduced. I can't say if the issue is still present in all models but it's definitely there on the flagship H-F PAM88I and Noob PAM29M v2 which is likely one of the most advanced of the recently released models. The problem lies in the finishing of the surface of the sidewall bore around the cyclops. The diamond cutter marks are polished out on the genuine OP crystal and thus are transparent. Yes, it's as simple as that. You will notice how the edges of the genuine crystal cyclops look like the edges of an underwater air bubble when viewed from the top or the face of the watch. Most reps I've seen new and old, as well as the above mentioned reps specifically, have the cutter bore marks left untouched so you can clearly see the white halo ring marking the edge of the cyclops that gets wider as you turn the watch and look at it at an angle. The bored out sidewall of the rep cyclops looks frosted, similarly to the side edge of the crystal so on a double-radius crystal like the Noob PAM29 and I would guess H-F 90I/222I that lacks the magnifier effect, the halo is rather pronounced, more so than on traditional lens shaped crystals. Reason is, the traditional lens crystal has magnification power that makes it appear thinner. When you look at watches with a lens shaped crystal at an angle -their rehauts look shallower for this reason. Hence the frosted bore of the cyclops also will look a bit shallower. Here's a couple of hasty photos so you don't fall asleep completely reading my opus. *CliffsNotes: New HF/Noob crystals with cyclopses still have a halo and don't look as great as OEM because the bore wall of the recessed cyclops is left with an unpolished frosted-looking finish similar to the edge of the crystal. OEM OP crystal w/ a 6mm cyclops, underside to show the polished bore: OEM OP crystal w/ a 6mm cyclops, topside: Noob PAM29M v2 crystal w/ a 6mm cyclops, underside to show the frosted bore: Noob PAM29M v2 crystal w/ a 6mm cyclops, topside to show the white halo: