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waterproofing PO?


landwomble

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Got a Narikaa PO arriving, and I'm planning to get it pressure tested to see if I can wear it swimming.

If it doesn't pass then I'll need to get waterproofing - presume caseback off, grease seals, and crown/stem out and grease inside stem, inside crown seal and outside crown seal? Any risk in applying a bit too much grease to the stem - don't want to gunk it up.

Anyone any tips for a noob for taking out the crown on these models - what do I press to remove it without me messing up the movement?

Thanks!

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There's a search box top right which finds things :whistling:

Follow these instructions to the letter and you can't go wrong :thumbsupsmileyanim:

I seem to remember another member who did a 'How to' using a POrikka but I can't remember who.

Save your money on a pressure test until after you seal your watch because chances are it won't be water-resistant on arrival.

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Be very carefull in pressing the Stem release button or you could dislodge the keyless works! I did that as a noob! And it's a pain to fix! BTW: Just not any grease, must be for watches! Pig's grease and car bearing grese don't count! =@:D

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That's exactly what I'm nervy of: screwing up stem removal! Any tips?

Planning to use servisol silicone grease: I can readily get hold of this. Sound ok?

I can't help you on the grease issue, as I've never greased any of my watches, but with the stem removal, it's just a case of gently depressing the button, rather than pushing it down hard :)

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I just waterproofed my POrikka this weekend. Went diving in the pool with it yesterday.

Stem... The asian mvmts don't have a stop gap. Its simply a little button. That being said, its harder to screw it up. Pull the stem all the way out to the time set position.With your thumb and index finger, pull on the stem while pressing the button. Try to press the button only as much as needed to release the stem. When you go to put it back in, with the watch upside down, gently rotate the stem counter clockwise (roll it away from you with watch upside down) until you feel it click back into place. Don't force it. Once its back in, spin it both directions, you should feel it winding the movement. Check that it now can be put into date and time set and that they work. You should be fine, you have to learn how to do this stuff, and theres only one way. Once you do it you'll feel more confident that you can do it anytime you need to.

Waterproofing: Check that all your seals are in place. Make sure theres an o-ring in the crown, and inside the tube, and in the caseback. Clean the threads on the outside of the tube and apply a dab of lube to the threads. qtips and toothpics work well. apply a dab of lube around the o-ring inside the crown. I use waterproof bearing grease, like you can buy in a bicycle shop. dab the o-ring inside the tube, but try not to get it past the seal, just a smidge around it. Clean the caseback and back of the case, and lube the caseback threads and the o-ring. put everything back together and screw the caseback down nice and tight.

For Planet oceans the He valve is a pain because it doesnt come out. You have to pull the movement out. After you get the movement out I hot glued the hole shut, performed the waterproofing of the other entry points, then reassembled.

This should suffice. I then wash the watch with soap and water and put it in a cup of water. Then I wear it. No fog? It worked.

Good luck. With minimal tools and the very basic of watchsmithing know-how, you can do this job. :thumbsupsmileyanim:

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I just waterproofed my POrikka this weekend. Went diving in the pool with it yesterday.

Stem... The asian mvmts don't have a stop gap. Its simply a little button. That being said, its harder to screw it up. Pull the stem all the way out to the time set position.With your thumb and index finger, pull on the stem while pressing the button. Try to press the button only as much as needed to release the stem. When you go to put it back in, with the watch upside down, gently rotate the stem counter clockwise (roll it away from you with watch upside down) until you feel it click back into place. Don't force it. Once its back in, spin it both directions, you should feel it winding the movement. Check that it now can be put into date and time set and that they work. You should be fine, you have to learn how to do this stuff, and theres only one way. Once you do it you'll feel more confident that you can do it anytime you need to.

Waterproofing: Check that all your seals are in place. Make sure theres an o-ring in the crown, and inside the tube, and in the caseback. Clean the threads on the outside of the tube and apply a dab of lube to the threads. qtips and toothpics work well. apply a dab of lube around the o-ring inside the crown. I use waterproof bearing grease, like you can buy in a bicycle shop. dab the o-ring inside the tube, but try not to get it past the seal, just a smidge around it. Clean the caseback and back of the case, and lube the caseback threads and the o-ring. put everything back together and screw the caseback down nice and tight.

For Planet oceans the He valve is a pain because it doesnt come out. You have to pull the movement out. After you get the movement out I hot glued the hole shut, performed the waterproofing of the other entry points, then reassembled.

This should suffice. I then wash the watch with soap and water and put it in a cup of water. Then I wear it. No fog? It worked.

Good luck. With minimal tools and the very basic of watchsmithing know-how, you can do this job. :thumbsupsmileyanim:

Spoken like a PRO!

Thanks, Dude! I should have this advise when I started! :1a:

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I just waterproofed my POrikka this weekend. Went diving in the pool with it yesterday.

Stem... The asian mvmts don't have a stop gap. Its simply a little button. That being said, its harder to screw it up. Pull the stem all the way out to the time set position.With your thumb and index finger, pull on the stem while pressing the button. Try to press the button only as much as needed to release the stem. When you go to put it back in, with the watch upside down, gently rotate the stem counter clockwise (roll it away from you with watch upside down) until you feel it click back into place. Don't force it. Once its back in, spin it both directions, you should feel it winding the movement. Check that it now can be put into date and time set and that they work. You should be fine, you have to learn how to do this stuff, and theres only one way. Once you do it you'll feel more confident that you can do it anytime you need to.

Waterproofing: Check that all your seals are in place. Make sure theres an o-ring in the crown, and inside the tube, and in the caseback. Clean the threads on the outside of the tube and apply a dab of lube to the threads. qtips and toothpics work well. apply a dab of lube around the o-ring inside the crown. I use waterproof bearing grease, like you can buy in a bicycle shop. dab the o-ring inside the tube, but try not to get it past the seal, just a smidge around it. Clean the caseback and back of the case, and lube the caseback threads and the o-ring. put everything back together and screw the caseback down nice and tight.

For Planet oceans the He valve is a pain because it doesnt come out. You have to pull the movement out. After you get the movement out I hot glued the hole shut, performed the waterproofing of the other entry points, then reassembled.

This should suffice. I then wash the watch with soap and water and put it in a cup of water. Then I wear it. No fog? It worked.

This is just what I needed, very much appreciated.

This might be a dumb question, but s the HE valve a necessity if I don't open it? Did you use marine epoxy to seal? Could I just apply a glue to the open threads and tightness down?

Bit nervy about taking the movement out...

If I stuff the crown, are new movements available that work with the date wheel? It'll be my first bit of watch surgery...

Good luck. With minimal tools and the very basic of watchsmithing know-how, you can do this job. :thumbsupsmileyanim:

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Spoken like a PRO!

Thanks, Dude! I should have this advise when I started! :1a:

Thanks Hike. Crazy part is it was you and I that needed to know this stuff not too long ago, now look. I used to be terrified to pull the stem. I didn't want to risk losing a rep to a mistake. Chances are with an asian movement he's going to handle it with much more care then its already been shown. The ETA or ETA clones, hell.. Just use the right size screwdriver! :bangin:

The stainless diver reps of the quality our members are privy to are all capable of being waterproof once they are given that once over unless its a real dud. If its a dud it should be replaced anyway.

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This is just what I needed, very much appreciated.

This might be a dumb question, but s the HE valve a necessity if I don't open it? Did you use marine epoxy to seal? Could I just apply a glue to the open threads and tightness down?

Bit nervy about taking the movement out...

If I stuff the crown, are new movements available that work with the date wheel? It'll be my first bit of watch surgery...

The He valve should be addressed. Since you can't pull it off completely (it just unscrews and stays attached) you have to approach it from the inside. I simply hit the inside hole with a touch of hot glue. Maybe not the best method, but its mine. Marine epoxy might be even better. If it does the same thing, go for it.

Your pulling the crown so you mine as well pull the movement. It sits in a plastic movement holder. You quite simply just pull the whole thing (one piece) out of the watch. Address the hole for the HE valve, and put it back in. Just make sure you keep the crystal clean and free of dust/prints so you dont have to go back in.

Yes you can buy a new movement if you stuff it up. They are $30-40 and could be considered an upgrade because the beat is higher (the sweep will be even smoother).

Buy a noobmariner for $100 shipped and make it your learning watch, then do the POrikka when your ready.

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not when reinserting. You press the button only to remove the stem. When you put it back in, gently push in while rotating. You'll feel it click back into place. Then just check it is in the winding position, and can hit date and time set positions.

The asian 2813's are pretty easy to pull the stem and put back in. Apply moderate pressure to the button while pulling the stem with your fingers and it will release. Chances are if it breaks it was probably on its way out to begin with.

It should be said that with the ETA/copy ETA's, as you probably know there is a specific sized slot over the hole to prevent you from pushing too far. Make sure to use the appropriate sized screwdriver.

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Shame on you :lol:

Thats the one, I knew someone would be able to find it..........

........Oh, hang on. Its you, I mean, not you but you did it.........er

.............oh............this is a bit embarassing........um.

Ooooh look over there, theres a badger with a gun...........have they gone yet......

....Yeah , they've gone.

I think I got away with that one. :unsure:

Pheeeeuuuuww that was close. :whistling:

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Yes you can buy a new movement if you stuff it up. They are $30-40 and could be considered an upgrade because the beat is higher (the sweep will be even smoother).

Coincidentally I read that RolexMan porikaa waterproofing tutorial last night, and after seeing his comment that there is a DG2813 in the POrikaa, I checked on OFREI and that other place, as well, and the movements are $15 :)

CHEEP!! If you break it, you'll need a hand pulling and setting tool plus $15 for a new DG2813 ;)

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The higher beat DG movement is more expensive, but its a direct replacement. Thats why I quoted a bit higher. If you swap that in, you have the same beat as a gen, 28.8

Have to disagree with you on a couple of things here. Firstly, the DG2813s that you can get from places like cousins are not always the same as what is in our reps. Specifically the height of the hands is much lower, and on a PO it is hard to get the hands to clear the hour markers without bending them up slightly. Ajoesmith sells the proper movement, with the correct handstacks for about $40. As to the 28k movement being more accurate, it is not. The genuine PO beats at 25,200 bpm, so it is slightly smoother than a 21k, and slightly rougher than a 28k. If you look at a gen you will immediately notice that it is not as smooth as a 28k movement. IMO, a 21k looks slightly more accurate.

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Have to disagree with you on a couple of things here. Firstly, the DG2813s that you can get from places like cousins are not always the same as what is in our reps. Specifically the height of the hands is much lower, and on a PO it is hard to get the hands to clear the hour markers without bending them up slightly. Ajoesmith sells the proper movement, with the correct handstacks for about $40. As to the 28k movement being more accurate, it is not. The genuine PO beats at 25,200 bpm, so it is slightly smoother than a 21k, and slightly rougher than a 28k. If you look at a gen you will immediately notice that it is not as smooth as a 28k movement. IMO, a 21k looks slightly more accurate.

The DG's I was talking about are the one's Ajoe sells, which can also be sourced from ofrei, etc. I cannot remember the model number DGXXXX off the top of my head. I never assumed anyone would actually buy a 2813 if they had to replace the movement, but my mistake for not being clear. :bangin:

Whats interesting though, is that the PO's beat is slow. I never knew that. I also didn't know a 2813 from ofrei, etc. is not the same as the 2813 we receive in our reps. Great info Andreww, thanks! :thumbsupsmileyanim:

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