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Yuki Dial in MBW Case, does it fit?


Gorilladame

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Hi!

I´m planing a bit on my new project and before I buy all the stuff, I wounder whether one of you guys knows if a Yuki 1680 Dial fits into a new MBW 1680 Case.

I know the dial feet will probably not fit, but that shouldn´t be a big problem.

Here is a quote from the Yuki page to give you a hint:

The diameter of the dial is 26.5 mm, the dial feet at 6 and 11'o clock.

BTW: Will the Yuki hands for the Rolex 1570 movement fit on the ETA 2836-2 ??

Looking forward to your opinions and hints... :bounce:

Edited by Gorilladame
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There's a good chance it won't work. In the past a gen or decent aftermarket 1680 dial wouldn't fit in an MBW case w/o some mods- dial is too big.

Gen/aftermarket dial 26.5mm

MBW 1680 dial 26.2mm

Trim the dial or enlarge the case, neither is a decent option, IMO.

Hands for a 1570 movt won't fit an eta. Go to Clark's Watch supply for 'tudor' hands for eta. They'll fit.

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Email them, but my guess is between $400 and $500. And I don't know how a 2846-2 movement or other eta will fit in there. And of course, a 1575 movement will run $1000-1500 with a service included.

But good gens run $4000-6000. Red subs which are correct run $7500-9000, more with papers.

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Unfortunately, if I remember correctly you have picked the one model (1680) where the dial has to be shaved slightly. The 5512/13 and 1680 seem to fit fine. A couple of things to bear in mind though. If you are going with an ETA movement you are going to be "ruinging" the dial anyhow when you shave the feet so don't worry about it. But I would not spend the money on a gen movement when using a shaved dial. So either keep it lower budget and stick with ETA movement, upgrade to Yuki case with gen movement or pick a 5512/3 or 1680 instead. The Rolex experts can correct whatever I got wrong. :lol:

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How can you drimm a dial without making it "un-round"???

Very gentle sanding :D

Put the paper on a desk, then holding the dial 'edge down', gently and at a single stroke each time, rotating the dial each time, to ensure as consistent abrasion as possible :)

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Unfortunately, if I remember correctly you have picked the one model (1680) where the dial has to be shaved slightly. The 5512/13 and 1680 seem to fit fine. A couple of things to bear in mind though. If you are going with an ETA movement you are going to be "ruinging" the dial anyhow when you shave the feet so don't worry about it. But I would not spend the money on a gen movement when using a shaved dial. So either keep it lower budget and stick with ETA movement, upgrade to Yuki case with gen movement or pick a 5512/3 or 1680 instead. The Rolex experts can correct whatever I got wrong. :lol:

Dear Kruzer, thank you for your very informativ reply, but in an other way it is confusing me.

You say in my model (1680) the dial have to be shaved, but in the final you say I should pick a 1680.

So do you know a MBW sub-case which goes fine with the Yuki 1680 red dial?

Or vis-versa a Yuki dial which will go fine with the new MBW 1680 case?

And last question: ETZ is also selling the "old" MBW 1680 cases, will the Yuki dial fit there?

Once again thank you for help so far! I´m hanging on your lips...

Edited by Gorilladame
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Gorilla,

What he probably meant to say in the second sentence is 1665, not 1680.

Look at it like this:

Option 1- MBW case- $165

Yuki dial-$135

ETA movt- preferably 2846-2 $125?

ETA hands $15

gen crown- say $25, used

pearl for insert $20

ETZ DW overlay $20

93150 rep bracelet,580 ends $100

Total $600+

Option 2- Yuki case- $400+

Dial and hands- $135

Rolex 1570 movt- $1000+

gen crown $25

gen insert- $100

gen bracelet- $600

Total $2250+

These are ballpark figures, but this should give you the pic. #1 is a nice rep, #2 is a full fledged franken. But remember, these are labors of love, not investments. Buy a gen if you're looking for an investment!

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Not looking for an investment, looking for something for my workbench to work on in the evening ;-)

I allready got everything from pic1 (with a 2836-2 movement + gen springbars), besides the Yuki dial and some 580 endlinks(which I am looking for a lot), and I actually don

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ETZ DW overlay= Eurotimez DateWheel overlay- you need this because the eta DW is outside of the correct diameter for a Rolex DW. Also, the ETZ DW has the correct fonts and silver/gray background of the vintage Rolex watches- 1570 series movts.

You could check wholesaleoutlet990 on the bay, he has had some decent 580 end pieces in the past- better than rep 580 ends which have a hole on the ends on the backside.

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ETZ DW overlay= Eurotimez DateWheel overlay- you need this because the eta DW is outside of the correct diameter for a Rolex DW. Also, the ETZ DW has the correct fonts and silver/gray background of the vintage Rolex watches- 1570 series movts.

You could check wholesaleoutlet990 on the bay, he has had some decent 580 end pieces in the past- better than rep 580 ends which have a hole on the ends on the backside.

Ahhh ok, next problem, never thought about the date...

thank´s for the hint ;-)

Would the MBW fit?

@aeromatic: thats fantastic news :Jumpy:

Edited by Gorilladame
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even if you shave the dial?

I wounder if a 0.5mm shaved dial still looks ok, anyway...

Shaving the outer diameter of the dial has no physical impact on placement of the datewindow, as long as the trimming is done evenly around the edge/diameter. Of course, if you take .5mm off the left or right side only, that will shift the position accordingly, but trimming in this manner would not make any logical sense :huh:

An MBW 1680 dial is 26mm to fit their cases.

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The only case where uneven dial shaving should affect the location of the dial is on press-fit dials. Watches powered by Rolex 103xs come to mind here (the dials for the 103x have an outer (right-angle) flange that fits (snugly) around the main plate of the movement). Other dials, those affixed to the movement either by dial feet or held on with dial dots (or similar adhesives) will not be off-center if you shave too much or too little from 1 side. The cannon pinion (the shaft that holds the hands & runs through the center of the dial) centers the dial's position in the case.

The problem you can run into if you remove too much material is leaving gaps between the edge of the dial & the inner flange (rehaut) of the case.

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The only case where uneven dial shaving should affect the location of the dial is on press-fit dials. Watches powered by Rolex 103xs come to mind here (the dials for the 103x have an outer (right-angle) flange that fits (snugly) around the main plate of the movement). Other dials, those affixed to the movement either by dial feet or held on with dial dots (or similar adhesives) will not be off-center if you shave too much or too little from 1 side. The cannon pinion (the shaft that holds the hands & runs through the center of the dial) centers the dial's position in the case.

The problem you can run into if you remove too much material is leaving gaps between the edge of the dial & the inner flange (rehaut) of the case.

I have to disagree- If you have a dial recess in the case that is 26mm, and your dial is 26.5mm, .5mm has to go. If you remove that .5mm from one side only (and provided you are able to retain the round shape of the dial), the case recess will determine the position of the dial; hence if the dial is .5mm less on one side, it's going to shift the date window position accordingly depending on where the excess material was removed.

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