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Which red would you buy?


Gorilladame

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Hi guys!

Sorry for not being around in the last month, but stress isn´t a word which could nearly discribe this month :yuk:

But now I back with a hugh question:

A close friend of mine is planing to buy a gen 1680 red after he saw my Yuki red and I promised to ask some experts (yes I mean you folks) for their opinion.

So please take a look at those and tell me what you think:

Number 1:

MG036-04.jpg

MG036-03.jpg

MG036-02.jpg

What I like: It looks like in a really good shape, even the band.

What I don´t like: The 6 seems to be closed what is wrong for a 1970 with a 9315 band and it is the most expensiv one and the insert seems to have to fat numbers.

Number 2:

u15466t127526760218-1.jpg

u15466t127526760218-4.jpg

u15466t127526760218-2.jpg

What I like: looks good IMO and it is the cheapest one.

What I don´t like: It is nearly a bit too cheap and the date seems to be in a wrong position.

Number 3:

26042010_170357_large_2.jpg

26042010_165640_large_3.jpg

What I like: it is a meter first from 1969

What I don´t like: the band seems to be worn out a bit and the insert got some ditches.

Number 4:

1541121c.jpg

1541121b.jpg

1541121gross.jpg

What I like: The shape of the crown is really nice.

What I don´t like: the color of the dial seems more tritium than the color of the hands.

Number 5:

1561934gross.jpg

1561934c.jpg

1561934b.jpg

What I don´t like: Again the hand and the dial isn´t matching...

So please do me a HUGH favour and post your opinions on those babes... :clapping:

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Well, I don't know what your friend's budget will allow, but I say keep looking. The above aren't bad, but they all show signs of wear, polishing, etc. In the long run, it would probably be of benefit to spend a little more and pick up a clean example with sharp case, full papers in my opinion.

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Well, I don't know what your friend's budget will allow, but I say keep looking. The above aren't bad, but they all show signs of wear, polishing, etc. In the long run, it would probably be of benefit to spend a little more and pick up a clean example with sharp case, full papers in my opinion.

Actually he wants to keep it under 8000€ so no chance for box and papers IMO...

BTW: What´s the big mistake with number 2? I allways thought this would be OK?

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#2 isn't bad... But it's definitely seen some time with the polishing wheel. It will also need a proper insert, as it looks as though they've fitted a thin font insert. Hands don't really match the dial either. Kinda knitpicking though...

As for the date- It's possible that the time is set to 10:09pm, and the date is starting to roll over, hence why it's slightly off. Probably nothing to worry about there.

Your friend should factor in a cost to service into his budget, as it's always difficult to ascertain the overall health of a movement with second hand purchases.

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I like 3 for the dial, but the hands seem to be replacement at some angels. With vintage rolex, all the money is on the dial. so, you need to find out the serial number range to determine if the dial was fitted, when the watch was born.

Flex

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I generally agree with Ubi here (& for the same reasons he stated). But, were it me, I would hold out for a watch from a reliable seller that comes with (original) papers. Alternatively, considering how much fakery there is with vintage Rolex Subs, I would only buy with the (written) understanding that you will get the watch authenticated by Rolex. I would then walk it right over to the closest RSC for a full overhaul.

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I generally agree with Ubi here (& for the same reasons he stated). But, were it me, I would hold out for a watch from a reliable seller that comes with (original) papers. Alternatively, considering how much fakery there is with vintage Rolex Subs, I would only buy with the (written) understanding that you will get the watch authenticated by Rolex. I would then walk it right over to the closest RSC for a full overhaul.

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Vintage Rolex is all about the dial. All else being equal, the meters-first wins. Then you figure out if you can afford to make the rest "correct" over time.

I spent big money on a mid-range mtn bike a few years ago. I was tempted to go big and get the top end bike but I found out they shared the same frame and swingarm, both guaranteed for life. Knowing I would be breaking and replacing everything on the bike except the frame, I saved big money by going mid-range, then spent the money over time to take it to the top end bike on my own. And I needed to replace the parts anyway.

Buy the dial, then later buy the insert, bezel, hands, bracelet as necessary.

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Alternatively, considering how much fakery there is with vintage Rolex Subs, I would only buy with the (written) understanding that you will get the watch authenticated by Rolex. I would then walk it right over to the closest RSC for a full overhaul.

Same here, all the sellers are ranked and have a turn-back-policy...

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