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New Milgauss purchase off the board


Seraphim38

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I am relatively new here and just bought my first watch from this community. The transaction went well; the watch looks great. It was a 2836 movement (28800) from Josh I am told.

I can only aspire to take photos as good as some of the other very skilled board members.

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My only question; when I try to wind it, it doesn't sound like gears are engaging; it's just like it's pushing through heavy oil. I am used to it clicking as the thing you spin (for the life of me I can't remember the name of it) is turned. Photos are from my kitchen table with a Rolex passport wallet I have had for a couple of years, and on one of my trophies from road racing motorcycles in Oregon.

Edited by Seraphim38
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Congrats! Good photos! You only have to find the setting that sets the white balance correct (in your camera) and they'll be even better.

Do not hand wind your automatic watches. There is absolutely no need to do that and it just causes wear on the movement. Just shake, rattle and roll.

Good luck!

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While you shouldn't have to wind it, there should be no harm caused winding it occasionally. On the ETA 28xx movements there are only three gears involved in the winding, the winding pinion on the stem, the crown wheel and the ratchet wheel attached to the spring barel arbor. The ratchet wheel is also operated on by the auto wind movement and is the only one of these three I can visualize sustaining damage and costs only a few dollars. I have stripped many old movements from vintage watches and never seen any damage to any of these gears. However winding should not feel like pushing through oil unless the movement is fully wound (when winding causes the mainspring to slip in the barrel, a safety measure to prevent the auto overwinding the spring). I suggest however you get the watch looked at if you can as I assume this is what is known as an Asian Clone 2836 and I found a worrying lack of quality control when stripping an almost new clone yesterday and found the ratchet wheel was loose and the screw which should secure it hanging, literally, by a thread, arrowed in the pic below -

eta_clone_001.jpg

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Replica crown construction can also be fragile (QC issues) and manual winding might put an extra stress on it.

7750 is even more prone to damage but Ziggy has stated many times that all replicas with automatic movements should not be hand wound, ever. I'll just take his word for it. And why would anyone even insist on manually winding an automatic watch... there are ZERO benefits from doing so. You will most likely survive from driving without a seat belt too, but that makes no sense, either. I just don't get it.

Maybe it's 100% safe when you're talking about properly serviced genuine watch but as nice as these are, they're just Chinese wonders. As Eddie Lee said, too many people treat them like a Playstation.

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Replica crown construction can also be fragile (QC issues) and manual winding might put an extra stress on it.

7750 is even more prone to damage but The Zigmeister has stated many times that all replicas with automatic movements should not be hand wound, ever. I'll just take his word for it. And why would anyone even insist on manually winding an automatic watch... there are ZERO benefits from doing so. You will most likely survive from driving without a seat belt too, but that makes no sense, either. I just don't get it.

http://www.rwgforum....__1#entry409656

Maybe it's 100% safe when you're talking about properly serviced genuine watch but as nice as these are, they're just Chinese wonders. As Eddie Lee said, too many people treat them like a Playstation.

I'm not disagreeing with you BT, and I know the 7750 is fragile in this area, I've seen The Zigmeister's pics. I'm just saying the odd hand wind on a 28xx is going to do no harm whatsoever, and there seems to be little evidence to the contrary. When I service a 28xx I always hand wind it fully to check the power reserve and (manually) callibrate which may require a few days worth of winding. I have no intention of putting the movement in a case, wearing it and waving it around on my wrist to wind it up!! In normal use there should indeed be no reason to do so and I never hand wind my daily wear. However if I was to put on a watch which had completely run down I would give it a few winds first.

My main point, backing up what you say about chinese wonders, and coupled with the state of that ETA Clone in my pic, is that if there is resistance felt when winding, there may well be something wrong unless the watch is fully wound and I would recommend the OP gets this checked. It is quite a simple matter to remove the watch back and see if there is anything amiss in the winding process, no need to remove the movement or dismantle anything. The loose ratchet gear in my pic could have eventually caused a lot of damage. Incidentally the clone had more than its fair share of dirt and showed little sign of having been oiled.

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OK. Thanks all for your help. My last rep, a Daytona that looked good but stopped after 2 years, didn't have enough power reserve to survive a single night so I would hand wind it and set it every morning. It did strip out in about a year and a half, but it kept running for a full day if I shook it about 20 times backe and forth in the morning.

Under close examination, hand winding in my new Milgauss does incur a very slight clicking so I feel I have confirmed that it is functioning correctly.

Anyone know how much power reserve a standard 2836 should have?

How many shakes should I give it in the morning to wind it? 10? 20?

Regarding the photos; I am often too lazy to shoot in RAW...but it would have helped the color. My Nikon has always had color issues especially with over saturating reds, but when I am shooting for money/seriously I find ways around it.

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