ratpatrolteam01 Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 http://www.yourtrustytime.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7&products_id=1234&zenid=1c5824922d46aa1ab083c22be55bbf1e it's around $500 after shipping... can anyone tell me how accurate this is compared to the real one and if it's worth it to a person that's looking for a realistic rep (lol)? im not interested in it myself, but extremely curious. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 horrible, forget it. the $100 noob is better. or better yet for around the same price buy bks TW sub, best you can get currently Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratpatrolteam01 Posted May 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 could you please give me a reason (or reasons) why? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perry563 Posted May 14, 2011 Report Share Posted May 14, 2011 Dont buy it. The biggest issue and it is a huge tell is the ULTRA thin and wokky rehaut. The only game in town when it comes to Subs is BK. The watch comes fully QCed and modded as much as you would like. He will even add gen parts such as crystal, insert, crown etc. although this costs more...of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratpatrolteam01 Posted May 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 oh ok. i guess when it comes to rolex i'm probably only gonna get a Explorer I or Datejust II, I heard those 2 are the most accurate OOB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
almond76 Posted May 15, 2011 Report Share Posted May 15, 2011 Well I bought one of the "super" version around $400. Not too bad pretty good looking Sub out of box. But if compared to the BK's WM9 or TW (Basically modded by BK up to your taste and financial strength) of course it is miles apart. But for that price it is not so bad actually, even the lume is pretty decent. I am also patiently waiting for my LV from BK to compare between the two. Just wonder if i over paid on Sub. If your are obssessed with perfection, enrouting to more, more & more mods, my suggestion - go buy a GEN. The 16610 sub used older version isn't that expensive anyway. NO point to spent 1000 or more on a rep Sub 16610. I own a gen Green Hulk , when compared to the Rep Sub C, seriously miles apart- especially the crystal, braclet, level of finish, then again for about 300 bucks, that's hell of a bargain! I just use them as a daily beater anyway. Cheerios! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 "...how accurate this is compared to the real one?" "...horrible, forget it. the $100 noob is better." "The biggest issue and it is a huge tell is the ULTRA thin and wokky rehaut." 'Shallow rehaut' is a major problem with many submariner replicas as we all know. The standard 520117 noob case has a shallow 'rehaut' at first glance but when you look closely, the edge of the rehaut next to the dial is cut at a 90 degree angle to the dial so in reality the rehaut is taller than it looks...but it is still a bit shallow. Shallow can not be easily fixed but sometimes the 'wok effect' can be repaired. How? I have a modern Exp II with the wokky rehaut and I reshaped the angle of the rehaut in a lathe and it looks fine now. But there is always a catch, and the catch in this case (pun!) is that when you reshape a wokky rehaut to make it less wokky, it increases the id of the dial seat when you cut metal away to make the angle steeper and this exposes more of the dial. The X-II turned out Ok though. So what? you say... Well, if you remove too much metal, the dial can now be too small for the dial opening and will fall through or show the dial edge on one side. If the dial has been scratched from sliding around in the case...sometimes caused by pulling the crown out to setting position or turning the dial/mvt in the case...the scratches may show. I also noticed the date magnifier on the watch in the Trusty link might be 10mm off center rather than 9mm like genuine. Can't tell for sure but the magnifier looks too close to the edge of the crystal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 The inner (vertical) flange on the case around the dial on most gen Rolexes is relatively shallow & this is an area that most reps get wrong (by being too tall/deep). If you have to err with a rep, I would always take the rep with the too shallow vertical flange over the too tall/deep flange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 "The inner (vertical) [censored] on the case around the dial on most gen Rolexes is relatively shallow & this is an area that most reps get wrong (by being too tall/deep). If you have to err with a rep, I would always take the rep with the too shallow vertical [censored] over the too tall/deep [censored]." Watzup with f-l-a-n-g-e? I never saw one in a porn flick. Here is a good set of pictures for comparison: http://www.bernardwatch.com/watch/RLX5001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cib0rgman Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 juts buy one from BK; Probably is cheaper or the same and much better quality... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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