Ephry73 Posted August 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 I'll be the guiny pig if you'd like ') Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jkay Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 Have you considered trying various photo papers for inkjet? matte, semi and gloss ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 The papers are too thick... A date-wheel overlay is normally only a couple of thousandths thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof* Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 AA++ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 I should get the new batch of decal stock in next week and hopefully the surface is more to my printer's liking. I had used ink jet paper in preliminary tests and the graphics were somewhat "blotchy" under magnification so I ordered some laser decal paper. Hopefully it will be smoother then everything should be razor sharp. I have not tried the laser-jet water-slide decal paper. I was told by the manufacturer I've been using that the laser-jet is not as crisp as ink-jet. I don't know, so I'll be waiting for your results. My first ink-jet prints were done at 2400dpi, and came out very good, not blotchy, using a HP pretty basic printer. I bought a new printer last March, a Canon that prints up to 9000 dpi. More is better, right? Nope! Using the highest resolution, 'best quality' setting, high end photo paper setting, the reds all came out blotchy, the ink almost 'puddled'! The other colors were better, but not great. I tried all sorts of combination settings, and settled on 5000dpi on 'glossy photo paper' setting to get a solid and crisp print. I think that means quality will vary by printer and printer settings. Also, the decal paper manufacturer recommends using 'Krylon Crystal Clear' to seal the decal. I had used the decal spray but experienced ink bleeding. It would take 10 days+ for the ink to dry and not bleed. With the Krylon I have no bleeding after 2 hours of the print. It comes in gloss, satin and matte, and the big can is under $4 at my local Walmart. I did my date wheel in gloss, and it doesn't look right. I'd suggest satin. For dials, gloss or satin, depending on what the gen was, works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwatch Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 Does anyone here have a Dye Sublimation Printer? That might be a better choice for printing, and the cool thing is, the print is ever so slightly raised so it comes really close to looking like a silk screen instead of just a standard print. Plus it is instantly dry and the process used does not have that "dithering" or shifting effect that ink jet has (where the ink drops never "quite" land in the same place twice) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ephry73 Posted August 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 Good point Red. E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 Does anyone here have a Dye Sublimation Printer? That might be a better choice for printing, and the cool thing is, the print is ever so slightly raised so it comes really close to looking like a silk screen instead of just a standard print. Plus it is instantly dry and the process used does not have that "dithering" or shifting effect that ink jet has (where the ink drops never "quite" land in the same place twice) I don't, but when using the inkjet it does give a 'raised' print. It looks absolutely great. But then upon drying and sealing, that raised looks is diminished. If there is a way to get that to stay, it'd be super. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwatch Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 That is the other unfortunate issue with ink jets, the ink will eventually soak into what ever it's printed on and it looses that effect. That is why the Dye Sublimation Transfer process is so perfect for this situation (at least that is my theory). Its a totally dry process so the dye will not soak in or sink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted August 12, 2011 Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 My Alps printer can print in dye sub mode but nothing is raised. The only "mode" that uses dye sublimation is photo quality with special ribbons. This is the printer I use to print white on black... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ephry73 Posted August 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 How are they looking up JM? E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 I won't know until next week... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ephry73 Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Ok. I sent you a few PMs regarding the crystal retainers. Just wanted to know what the process is. E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 I have had discussions with several folks who have done a lot of research and/or I consider to be unimpeachable experts and there are conflicting views on the font. It may be that some models (GMT with roulette DW for example) have all sixes open while other models have the "6" in 26 closed. It will be a simple process to accommodate both camps as when it comes to vintage Rolex there seem to be few absolutes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjmj Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 I would be keen for a couple if the work out please. Good luck J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sishac Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 Hey, I just got a sample of a brushed metal printable paper....if someone can send me a good pdf of a datewheel, I'll be happy to print a page of these datewheels up on my inkjet printer to see how they are. I've compared the paper to my original 1675 silver datewheel and its not half bad. My question would be what exact size to print the datewheel out at and then any ideas as to how to "cut" them out? Maybe with an exacto blade and then just use spray adhesive to attach them to the existing datewheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ephry73 Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 I almost forgot to ask, are these already set for the rolex window spacing, or fot the ETA one? E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 They are for the Rolex style "widescreen" date window. I just received the new decal stock, have printed a sheet of overlay decals, and from what I can tell they look perfect! I have printed red, black, and "roulette" style... Here's a shot of the finished decals... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blix Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 Looking good, J! One thing, though. The 5 in 15 is damaged - dunno if it's the image your using, or just a random hick-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ephry73 Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 JMB, what's the damage? I will need two in black. I'll take the damaged ones. I'm crazy like that haha E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 It's a "boo-boo" in the printing, the artwork is intact. E, I'll PM ya... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 a proper date wheel has stopped me from building a 1680 for along time. lets see if this solves that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ephry73 Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 That is what I'm trying to Finish a 1680. I also have a nice 1665 GW with ETA feet dial that will work for the 1665 case I have. Thanks JMB E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sishac Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 So are these for sale??? And will they fit an asian 2813? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 They are meant to be applied over any proper sized overlay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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