Getting Mary's rep 580 endlinks to fit PT 1680?

[dezcori]

Hey guys, I just received a replica folded link bracelet to go on my PT 1680. Unfortunately, the endlinks do not work at all, and I had to put on the endlinks that came with the PT sub. Also, the PT spring bars, which are gen-style, do not fit at all in the folded link bracelet, much less in the new endlinks.

I'm okay using the generic, non-gen-style endlinks, but I would like to use the rep 580 endlinks on the PT sub, as the folded link bracelet looks weird with the PT endlinks.

Anybody know if there is any solution to this?

[Jkay]

I have the same set-up and I simply used a bit of force to make it work.

[highoeyazmuhudee]

compared to gen the PT 580s are too tall, you need to squish em down a bit, i used a vise.

[tabularasa415]

PBdad is awesome at modding those for lug holes.

[automatico]

"Hey guys, I just received a replica folded link bracelet to go on my PT 1680. Unfortunately, the endlinks do not work at all, and I had to put on the endlinks that came with the PT sub. Also, the PT spring bars, which are gen-style, do not fit at all in the folded link bracelet, much less in the new endlinks."

I got a folded oyster bracelet from 'watchinternational' last week and I pushed a tapered punch through the ends of the bracelet to enlarge them for 2mm springbars. You need to be careful because where the tops of the connecting links are polished to a matte finish, there is a flat spot where the connecting link is very thin.

The hoods that came with the bracelet will not accept 2mm springbars so I removed the tubes that were soldered in the hoods and used the hoods without any tubes. This seems to work Ok on most watches depending on how much space there is between the end of the bracelet and the hood. Some of the older C&I etc genuine rivet bracelets are made this way with the hood loose between the case and bracelet...this sometimes wears the numbers away on the case body though.