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Help Identifying LV Submariner from 2006 (Eddie Lee Rep) Photos inc


SSTEEL

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I have a damaged LV Sub that I got from Eddie Lee back in the day when he supplied reps, and now, I wish to work on it, replacing case, and bracelet, plus insert etc.  To do this, I need help in finding out which model it is, does anyone know by checking the following photos?

 

 

post-50989-0-02389000-1360060303_thumb.j

post-50989-0-25997900-1360060305_thumb.j

post-50989-0-17090400-1360060307_thumb.j

post-50989-0-20466900-1360060309_thumb.j

post-50989-0-38268200-1360060311_thumb.j

post-50989-0-52778600-1360060313_thumb.j

post-50989-0-62694200-1360060315_thumb.j

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It looks to me like a standard chinese rep- typical for 2006.

But the movement is probably a swiss eta- that's the good news.

Certainly a better case would be a good deal- WM9, TW Best, or TC would do as well as a new insert

You need to measure the dial also- if it's too big you might need a new dial also.

Good luck

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Cheers, from what I remember, it does have a Swiss-ETA in it.  I have just measure the case, and it's 40mm from top to bottom, and side to side, inc crown it's 44mm

 

The face/dial itself measures, 28mm

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"Certainly a better case would be a good deal- WM9, TW Best, or TC would do as well as a new insert."

 

There is probably quite a few noob F520117 cases around with doa DG/NN movements that are affordable.

 

"You need to measure the dial also- if it's too big you might need a new dial also."

 

The F520117 dial is 28.0mm, the dial window 27.0 and the dial seat will accept a dial up to 28.4mm. There is a slight step that limits the dial to 28.4mm unless you cut it away or mount the dial over the step. The F520117 came with a good case tube/crown combo, crystal/crystal gasket, and caseback gasket...plus metal movement spacer and case clamps with screws. They were OK for everyday wear and would not fog up after washing hands or getting in the rain.

Some owners got by swimming and shallow diving with them.  :snorkel:

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  • 1 month later...

Started to strip this case down, and will be practising some case mods on it for a franken, the Swiss ETA will be going in my TT sub.

 

Removed the bezel, and insert from this LV sub, and was surprised to find a difference kind of bezel spring, and click system probe.

 

AF80EBBB-B3CB-48DA-A2EF-B112652A2F30-223

 

713FE883-0A0B-4430-94C6-ABB7159BD622-223

 

E3950299-A970-4D7A-8A6D-985CC100D80F-223

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Plan on shaving the CG's, correcting crystal height, and waterproofing, then fitting the Asian movement out of my TT sub, fit black dial, and black aftermarket insert.  Not going to win any awards on gen look, but will be find for a daily beater.

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"Hey bro. It's not gen construction."

 

Genuine construction = more $$

Sad but True.

If I was going to make a 'beater' or 'low buck' everyday 16610 type watch...I too would probably go with non genuine construction for the benefits.

 

'Benefits' =

cheapo flat, straight side crystals, MG or sapphire

cheapo cases (if you ask around on the forum), some with good dials and doa movements...many are bargains because they are dated and not as nice as later offerings

many dials and bezel inserts around for cheapo cases

most cheapo cases will accept the Eta 2836

if the case is correctly threaded you can use a high quality/affordable TC tube/crown and dodge $genuine crowns$ etc, etc

If someone whups your azz and steals your watch...you ain't out much more than the doctor bill.

 

Downside =

some have hard to remove bezels (F520117!!)

oem spec inserts may not fit

might get busted as a replica out in the wild by a bonafide rolexfreak "Are you kiddin'me? It better be a bonafied relax for what I paid."

most genspec stuff will not fit etc, etc

The guy that whupped your azz and stole your watch might come back when he finds out it is a replica.

 

If I was going 'Middle Class' I would probably go with an Etaclone in a new watch.

If I was going 'Upper Middle Class' I would probably go with a swissEta in a new watch.

If I was going 'High Class' I would try to go with a swissEta, 'oem spec' TC etc case/bracelet or equivalent.   

...and be on the lookout for the guy who whupped my azz.  :pimp:

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Thanks for your input my friend, I'm no newbie when it comes to reps, get several years experience ;)

 

I'm getting a TC LV Sub V4or5 eventually, but for now, slowly building my watch tools, and equipment so I can mod watches, maintain them, and repair them also.

 

Have only a few reps right now after being out of the game for a while.  The LV sub in this thread was originally purchased from Eddie Lee (old timer TD from back in the day).

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"Thanks for your input my friend, I'm no newbie when it comes to reps, get several years experience"

 

I knew that but it did'nt show.  :prop: 

 

I see 5 basic classes of rolex 16610 replicas and I will always go with lower buck watches for beaters same as you did in this case. I always believed a real world beater (genuine or replica) should not cost very much to begin with or to maintain and repair.

(When I see TZ/TURF etc types bragging about buying a new or 'like new' rolex etc for a beater I have to roll my eyes because it seems (to me) to be a thinly veiled attempt to show they have $$ to pizz away. I do not have that luxury.)

 

My five categories of 16610 replicas:

1...Canal Street junk (easy to spot and mostly what we see in the real world)

2...pretty good cases/bracelets/dials with Seagull/DG/NN etc movements...many detail mistakes and not too hard to spot from 6 feet away especially with the 21600 second hand stutter (the '6 foot test')

3...high line cases/bracelets/dials with etaclones...hard to spot as a replica from 6 feet away

4...top of the line cases/bracelets/dials with swiss Eta movements...very hard to spot from 6 feet away

5...Frankenstein watches with top of the line TC etc cases/bracelets geuine movements, dials etc...pass for genuine from 6 feet away and up close without a magnifier

 

"I'm getting a TC LV Sub V4or5 eventually"

 

I would get one in a NYC minute if I was not loaded up in vintage stuff.

 

"The LV sub in this thread was originally purchased from Eddie Lee (old timer TD from back in the day)."

 

I never bought anything from Eddie Lee but bought some stuff from River and Paul. Turns out all the Abay/Womart $159 swisseta submariners with the 'fall on the floor' bezels were not so bad after all since Clark's came out with bezel kits and crystals. The Abay/Womart cases are not oem spec all over but will accept oem spec crystals, bezels, case tubes etc. I have a modified Ab/Wo 5514 'comex' with swisseta 2846 on right now.

Got skinned by Watchlover David in 1999/2000.  :animal_rooster:  

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