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1570/75 into MBK 1680...


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I finally got around to sticking a rolex 1570/75 with genuine 1680 dial into an MBK '1680' case serial number L342301. The watch came with a swiss Eta 2836 and 'great white' dial that had been ground down to fit in the case.

 

Here is how it went:

1...Mounted the mid case in a lathe and enlarged the shoulder in the dial seat. The original dial seat shoulder was cut to 26.2mm to accept a 26mm 5513 size dial...I cut it out to 26.7mm to accept a 26.5mm 1680 dial. All MBK 5512/5513/1680 cases are exactly the same.

2...Enlarged the dial window (opening in the case) to 25.7mm from 25.5mm to allow a little bit more dial to show and uncover more of the markers. Cut much more than this and it will get too far up into the angle of the reflector ring (aka rehaut).

3...Bored the lug holes out to 1.3mm in a drill press.

4...Installed a J Borel oem spec case tube using an O ring gasket out of an assortment, the oem spec gasket would not work.

5...Trial mounted the movement/dial to make sure the stem was in the center of the case tube...it was fine.

6...Put the crystal on the case and centered the date magnifier. First tried a Clark 127 and it was too small to go over the case neck (they work fine on DW cases though). Tried a no name 127 and it was Ok but not sure of the quality so I went with a crystal in a 'Best-Fit' package but do not know where it came from. Did not try a genuine crystal.

7...Mounted the movement/dial using genuine beveled case screws.

8...Cut the stem, put it in a TC crown, installed the case tube gaskets and crown.

9...Installed a Clark bezel kit and Borel J-13-5513 bezel insert. The insert snapped in just fine and is seated with a tiny bit of bezel edge showing above it. The rotating bezel snapped firmly over the crystal retainer bezel and turns Ok with a good feel when pushing down on it. The shim spacer was used. Did not use the MBK bezel kit because the Clark kit fits a little bit better.

10...The case has a groove cut in the top of the case under the crystal retainer bezel and I used a 31.5 x .8mm gasket in it out of an assortment. A 32.5 x 1.0mm case back gasket was too thick.

11...Swapped the genuine dial out for a Yuki 'red' 1680 dial and hands.

12...Buttoned it up using a regular 32.5 x 1.0mm case back gasket.

13...Mounted a replica 93150 with hollow mid links.

So far, so good.

 

Notes:

1...The 1570/75 is an early model no hack, 'flat side' type roller table, and 'two tone' double stack hour wheel. It is in excellent condition and has been worked on a few times going by the screw heads. The reversers, rotor axle etc are in fine condition. I c/o the mvt plus a mainspring and it runs about 4 or 5 sec fast a day. I could lay it on edge at night and slow it down a second or two.

2...The engraving on the MBK case is Ok but not very deep.

3...I used replica 358 hoods with the inside tubes removed because they would not line up with the lug holes. They are a tight fit and do not move around much at all.

 

Here is approximately what it cost to put together:

1...Complete MBK 1680...about $450 two years ago.

2...1570/75 about $950 including ms.

3...Yuki dial...$115

4...TC crown $25

5...Bezel kit $65

6...Bezel insert $18

6...Crystal $8

7...Gaskets $5

8...Stem...$5

9...ST springbars $5

10...White/black date wheel from our buddy WSO990 $40.

Total...about $1700 without labor.

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Darn Rick! Now all you need to do is learn how to post a few pics.

 

I'd love to hear more about the rep 9315- I'd love to run across one of those.

It certainly sounds like a cool build.

 

 

:) in fact I became curious about the final work too...

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