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Broken promises from a trusted dealer


archierocks

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Also to me it would be a wise idea to have QC pictures after confirming the order but BEFORE paying.

Don't know if this is feasible, but in normal life I'm used to evaluate the goods before paying for them... Once the dealers have my money in their hands there's not much we can do...

Actually the watch I ordered from Davidsen was done exactly like that. I got the QC photos, and then I paid him. I agree, that's the way it should work.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Very interesting read! I guess this would explain my recent purchase of PAM Bronzo. The QC pics showed a low beat movement on the timeograph and the date font looked off. I queried the TD and had to wait a week for him to get a new watch from the factory. Apparently the factory is back logged on parts for this watch and threw it together with what they had. The new QC looked good.

The watch is in transit. Let's see what it looks like. AJ already warned me to open her up and take a good look at the movement for loose parts. I might as well give her a little oil while I'm at it.

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So today I pushed a tad harder and the trail is below:

 

 

Bad luck for me but no assistance getting repaired or compensated?

 

 

Really bad lucky with these .

 

The PAM 382 just arrive today , tomorrow I give back factory .

 

 

It is and will cost circa £100 to service, in truth I am starting to get a tad upset with the way three of the last 4 watches from you have had problems. 

 

Andy

 

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I can not offer that repair cost , our margin are badly low .

 

U can return back for refund or exchange . We don't have that money profit to pay repairs .

 

So my Bronzo arrived today 5 weeks and $35 shipping cost and will be sent to the factory, I will get it back hopefully in a few weeks so that will make it 2 months out in total. It could b eworse I guess, it could hav enever turned up!

 

TD's you simply have to clean up your act and stand by your product, if teh factories are rushing th eguys putting them together gie them 1 minute more to screw the damn movement in properly, not to do so is a false economy and pisses us, your clients off. Rant No.2 over :-)

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Will do, Mike!

My experience so far with this purchase reinforces that you need to know the watch you're purchasing and to really pay attention to the QC pics. If I hadn't caught the differences in the beat rate, I would've ok'd the QC and would've gotten stuck with garbage.

That's not to say that I still won't get stuck with garbage!

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Guys, please, share how you are able to recognize the factory when not clearly stated in the TD sites.

So far I've seen only few Noob and BP ones with the factory indication...

Thanks, Alex

For me it is a matter of following the other forums. RepGeek is the one where I learned about the ZF factory that was producing the Tudor BB, the new Bronzo, the Pam 389, and the Fifty Fathoms.

If the TDs website doesn't state, there are usually clues, the ZF watches have ZF in their description usually.

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I'd like to chime in here that you should **never** hand-wind a 775x movement unless it is while saying a prayer. The Gen and the replica will both strip out their winding gears when you do this. Don't do it.

I'm well aware of the fragility of 7750 reps (and to a lesser extent 7750 gens). After something is fixed I want to reassure myself it is *all* working, even the very fragile bits. This is what I did (and will do), I test every function to make sure it works as designed. I will very likely never manually wind it again (provided it doesn't go off for repair again), but it will be tested.

If something is fragile you treat it carefully, with mechanical respect, and don't use it flippantly. It doesn't mean "Don't ever, ever go near it, ever." If it mean that then all watch repairers all over the world would never test the manual wind components on any 7750s that they had rebuilt, which is just silly! :)

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So the dealer replied to me after posting the thread saying funny he didn't get my emails and if i want to return it to this address in china he gave me  so i copy and pasted them all to him just so he can see.

 

it's not the fact my rep watch arrived broken its the utter lack of follow up form him and playing the oh i never got the email or innocent card .

 

I added it up in the space of 3 weeks i spent $2400 and I've  got three more orders to put through this weekend once i confirm them so he's lost out on at least $3500 for what the sake of 10-20% percent off a few orders or even free fed ex shipping on a couple of them .

 

i think we should have a dealer rating system put in too place to many live off past reputations  

Edited by archierocks
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Okay, the watch came in today. It's a PAM 382 Bronzo. I opened her up and took the P.9000 bridge off. All the screws underneath needed to be tightened. They weren't so loose as to fall out, but all took at least a half turn. I do see a potential problem with the P.9000 bridge; the decorative screws are all glued in and have the potential of falling out. I placed a very small amount of glue on the opposite side of each screw to make sure they stay in place.

So far the watch is running well and keeping good time. Only time will tell!

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That's nice. Some people aren't.

Sorry, after re-reading my post it does come across at having a go at you, and it wasn't intended in that way.

Just when person number 10 tells you the same thing that you learned a year ago, one can be a little short :D

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Okay, the watch came in today. It's a PAM 382 Bronzo. I opened her up and took the P.9000 bridge off. All the screws underneath needed to be tightened. They weren't so loose as to fall out, but all took at least a half turn. I do see a potential problem with the P.9000 bridge; the decorative screws are all glued in and have the potential of falling out. I placed a very small amount of glue on the opposite side of each screw to make sure they stay in place.

So far the watch is running well and keeping good time. Only time will tell!

"P" thanks for sharing.

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Sorry, after re-reading my post it does come across at having a go

That's no problem at all. I always take into account that someone will be reading this years from now, looking for help and I am not necessarily talking to you, but to everyone in the forum.

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Okay, the watch came in today. It's a PAM 382 Bronzo. I opened her up and took the P.9000 bridge off. All the screws underneath needed to be tightened. They weren't so loose as to fall out, but all took at least a half turn. I do see a potential problem with the P.9000 bridge; the decorative screws are all glued in and have the potential of falling out. I placed a very small amount of glue on the opposite side of each screw to make sure they stay in place.

So far the watch is running well and keeping good time. Only time will tell!

Micky has informed me that to mount these faux plates onto the movement, two holes are screwed and then tapped (into the top plate?) of the movement.

And it looks like they do not bother to dissassemble the movement before they do this (which would be the only way they can drill and tap just the plate and then properly clean it).

Resulting in a high risk of the swarf from the drilling and swarf mixed with cutting compound (used when tapping the hole) getting inside the movement.

I'd definitely remove the back, remove the anti mag cover, remove the faux plate, turn the watch face up and then very gently tap it gently but repeatedly on all sides to get any swarf out of there. Do this while holding the watch level, and then again with a bit of a lean to the watch.

Sadly there is no way of guaranteeing the bits of swarf may come out rather then slide into some gears or the balance, so do the above before winding the watch (or after letting it run down) so no gears are turning. The only sure way is just biting the bullet and giving it a full service.

Or just wear it and hope all is good! :)

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Micky has informed me that to mount these faux plates onto the movement, two holes are screwed and then tapped (into the top plate?) of the movement.

And it looks like they do not bother to dissassemble the movement before they do this (which would be the only way they can drill and tap just the plate and then properly clean it).

Resulting in a high risk of the swarf from the drilling and swarf mixed with cutting compound (used when tapping the hole) getting inside the movement.

I'd definitely remove the back, remove the anti mag cover, remove the faux plate, turn the watch face up and then very gently tap it gently but repeatedly on all sides to get any swarf out of there. Do this while holding the watch level, and then again with a bit of a lean to the watch.

Sadly there is no way of guaranteeing the bits of swarf may come out rather then slide into some gears or the balance, so do the above before winding the watch (or after letting it run down) so no gears are turning. The only sure way is just biting the bullet and giving it a full service.

Or just wear it and hope all is good! :)

Thanks!

I'll take her apart and give her a service.

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