kyldare Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Hey guys! I'm pretty new to RWG and Rolex, but I thought I'd share some of the projects I've been working on. My skill level with modifying watches is very low, but I've been inspired to try my hand at modifying by the many projects detailed on this board (and on this sub-forum in particular). You guys have an incredible community here and I'm looking forward to contributing, rather than lurking and doing research! Most of my efforts so far have been scouring eBay and VRF to collect parts. I thought it'd be good to start this thread to detail my journey from the beginning. So here we go! #1: Rolex Daytona 6265 I just bought this one 100 percent complete from forum member bcampion. It was a pleasure doing business with Brian. He seems like a stand-up guy and I'd buy anything from him without hesitation in the future. This one isn't too much of a project, but I do have some plans for it in the future... Specs: DW case, Gen bezel, Gen dial and hands, Gen 78350 bracelet, V72, cousins pushers, Gen tube/crown, Gen T21 crystal Future Plans: I think I'd like to get the correct 571 endlinks (it has 557s now) and maybe pick up a gen 6263 acrylic bezel to rotate them as my mood changes. The DW case does have a slightly different appearance to it than the rest of the steel elements. Not sure if a little nicer case would remedy this, or if the appearance is just a matter of how the case was finished. I was looking into a Phong case, but it looks like his quality has declined significantly as of late. Not sure what to do there. Pics: ^^^^^ Here's the lugs sticking out past the endlinks a bit. I understand this happens a little even with the 571 endlinks. Is it worth it to switch the endlinks out? #2: Rolex GMT 1675 This watch was assembled through a couple eBay finds. I've always had a soft spot for the pepsi-bezel GMT. The watch I wear almost daily is a vintage Seiko 7002 that I found on eBay for $20. The GMT was always the ultimate version of that watch I love so much, so I'm very excited to finish this one. I bought the case and dial/hands separately and didn't pay very much (in the relatively obscene world of vintage rolex). Specs: Gen case, gen bezel, gen (very marred) crystal, gen dial, gen hands, gen pepsi insert? Future Plans: Figure out if this pepsi insert is gen. The seller claimed it was, but the printing looks slightly sloppy. For example: The 6 numeral on the insert almost touches the edge of the insert and the 8 numeral does touch. After seeing the immaculate printing on my gen 16013 DJ dial and my new gen 6265 dial, it seems like Rolex wouldn't let that happen. Any experts care to chime in? I also need to decide what kind of movement to use. I'd love to find a gen 1575 (after my wallet recovers from this Daytona purchase), but they don't come up on eBay very often and they're MEGA expensive if/when they do. I may just try and use one of the various ETA 28XX movements to get the job done. I know there's a few of you with 1675s running ETA movements around here. Maybe you'd care to chime in with some options! Pics: #3: Rolex Datejust 16013 I found a 3035 movement with a gold linen dial and hands on eBay and ended up paying wayyyyyy too much for it haha. Then I found a good deal on a case and crown combination. When the movement showed up, it wasn't a linen dial, but I didn't want to take the time to ship it back to Korea so I just kept it. It turned out gorgeous, but I'm on the hunt for a cheap linen dial now! Specs: Gen 16013 case w/18k gold fluted bezel, gen dials/hands, gen 3035 movement, gen crown Plans: I have a strap coming from Crown&Buckle that I think will look very nice. I'll update this post when it arrives. Then I'll probably sell the watch after I wear it for a while to recoup some money and put it toward finishing my 1675. I also have another 16013 case that's on it's way. Found a steal on eBay and I had to take it. For now I plan on taking a break and just enjoying my new 6265 as it is. I would appreciate any feedback you guys have to offer. I have much to learn! Thanks guys!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Well, you're on your way! I like the mock up of the DJ- can't tell if it's a champagne or silver dial, but either one will work. The DW with a V72 is a nice watch. Casewise, I don't know if you can do much better- those DW cases are pretty good- especially considering what they cost back when. I like the silver dial with the silver bezel- it just makes a nice combination that I particularly like. Considering all the gen parts you have already, a phong case really wouldn't be worth it, IMO. You'd just be trading rep cases and paying too much for the phong. Look forward to seeing the 1675 when you get it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droptopman Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Hi and welcome. You do not mess around.. right away into some really nice pieces. I remember bidding on that 1675 case set. Good luck on the projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyldare Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 (edited) Well, you're on your way! I like the mock up of the DJ- can't tell if it's a champagne or silver dial, but either one will work. The DW with a V72 is a nice watch. Casewise, I don't know if you can do much better- those DW cases are pretty good- especially considering what they cost back when. I like the silver dial with the silver bezel- it just makes a nice combination that I particularly like. Considering all the gen parts you have already, a phong case really wouldn't be worth it, IMO. You'd just be trading rep cases and paying too much for the phong. Look forward to seeing the 1675 when you get it done. Thanks for the reply! The DJ dial is champagne. Very beautiful in the sunlight. I'll be sad to see it go as it's my first "real" Rolex. Sounds like I should just hang on to the DW case then. I'm guessing a gen case would be prohibitively expensive if you could find one. Edited January 27, 2015 by kyldare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyldare Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Hi and welcome. You do not mess around.. right away into some really nice pieces. I remember bidding on that 1675 case set. Good luck on the projects. Thanks! I'm looking forward to finishing that 1675. Just have to get that movement all figured out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droptopman Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 My build is still in the rep case with a Eta 2836-2 and has run good for a year. I would love to transplant into a proper gen or gen spec case set with a 5.3 crown and proper cg's. Case is modded but as you can see crown and cg's are not right. It was my first build. Sent from my droptop using telepathy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
POTR Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 The Pepsi insert looks Gen. Crappy printing from worn out equipment is how fuzzy, fat number sub inserts were born. The method behind inserts is complete different from dials, and you can find examples where several numbers touch the inside, or even outside. Not the first time I've mentioned this, and I'm not the only one, but it is a minority of 'experts' that recognize them for what they are. Most call them Mk 1s, and the sharper bezels Mk 2s, 3s and maybe 4s, but the reality is the sharper ones are older, and they get fatter as the equipment wore out. So they have it backwards. Looks like you have quite the collection of parts already, enjoy your voyage. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyldare Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 The Pepsi insert looks Gen. Crappy printing from worn out equipment is how fuzzy, fat number sub inserts were born. The method behind inserts is complete different from dials, and you can find examples where several numbers touch the inside, or even outside. Not the first time I've mentioned this, and I'm not the only one, but it is a minority of 'experts' that recognize them for what they are. Most call them Mk 1s, and the sharper bezels Mk 2s, 3s and maybe 4s, but the reality is the sharper ones are older, and they get fatter as the equipment wore out. So they have it backwards. Looks like you have quite the collection of parts already, enjoy your voyage. Wow, thanks for the info! So are the later, fuzzier inserts the ones that are considered "fat font" inserts? Or are the fat font inserts actually a concerted effort by Rolex to change the width of the typeface? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyldare Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 My build is still in the rep case with a Eta 2836-2 and has run good for a year. I would love to transplant into a proper gen or gen spec case set with a 5.3 crown and proper cg's. Case is modded but as you can see crown and cg's are not right. It was my first build. Sent from my droptop using telepathy. Looks great! I'd like to find a jubilee bracelet like the one you have. Where'd you source your 2836-2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
POTR Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Yes. They are all the same, just worn out equip. Any sharper ones after fat font would just be new equip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyldare Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Yes. They are all the same, just worn out equip. Any sharper ones after fat font would just be new equip. Cool, thanks. Where in Seattle do you live? I'm in Madison Park Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
POTR Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Mt. Baker near Jimi Hendrix park. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyldare Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Ah, cool. We're probably just a couple miles from each other. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
POTR Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Yes. We'll have to arrange a gtg sometime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droptopman Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 I sourced the gen insert, plexi and jubilee here on the forum and my watchsmith sourced the gen dial, crown and movement. Aftermarket hands and bezel assembly. I am in WA too. Seattle native but live in Yakima now. Go Hawks Sent from my droptop using telepathy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theblueprince Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 The Pepsi insert looks Gen. Crappy printing from worn out equipment is how fuzzy, fat number sub inserts were born. The method behind inserts is complete different from dials, and you can find examples where several numbers touch the inside, or even outside. Not the first time I've mentioned this, and I'm not the only one, but it is a minority of 'experts' that recognize them for what they are. Most call them Mk 1s, and the sharper bezels Mk 2s, 3s and maybe 4s, but the reality is the sharper ones are older, and they get fatter as the equipment wore out. So they have it backwards. Looks like you have quite the collection of parts already, enjoy your voyage. This also affected the 6263 bezels causing slightly differing font size and style on what are supposedly the same "mark" of bezel. Also, way back when these things were made machine and printing tools were set by hand and thus would not produce 100% identical copies of parts in each diffeent production run which also accounts for slight variances and probably the differences between some "marks". Collectors/dealers who have handeld 100's/1000's of parts like this agree with the above, esepecially those who have been around the parts since they were new way back when. Looking at the net and the books and deciding that a certain mark or style of insert must exactly match the example given is not the right way to go, it's a guide and there will be slight differences. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theblueprince Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Oh and def keep the DW 6265 case. Various parts will have been made/modded to fit this when assembled and you will certainly find that it is not "plug n play" to swap everythign to a new Phong case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valty Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Nice watches ! And welcome to RWG Some quick tips : - Gen 571 ends will not fit your DW case w/o some serious work on these - If you want to swap for a Phong case, you should read this : http://www.rwg.cc/topic/144981-where-to-get-phong-case/?p=1391758 >>> "but it looks like his quality has declined significantly as of late" He always had "bad" and "good" cases, as a customer, you have to know exactly what you want to ask him w/ photos what's the exact shape you are looking for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theblueprince Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Slightly OT but interestingly and amusignly GEN 571's often now don't fit GEN cases either. Multiple cases of Rolex sourced 571's now being too wide for 62xx cases have been seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyldare Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Slightly OT but interestingly and amusignly GEN 571's often now don't fit GEN cases either. Multiple cases of Rolex sourced 571's now being too wide for 62xx cases have been seen. Interesting. Is this because they've deformed with age? I sourced the gen insert, plexi and jubilee here on the forum and my watchsmith sourced the gen dial, crown and movement. Aftermarket hands and bezel assembly. I am in WA too. Seattle native but live in Yakima now. Go Hawks Sent from my droptop using telepathy. Cool man! I'm originally from Pullman (yes, people actually grow up there hahaha) Go Cougs! and Hawks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theblueprince Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Interesting. Is this because they've deformed with age? No, just poor Rolex quality control it seems which is more and more apparent these days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Champagnesky Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Cool, i also got a 16013 case that needs a movement and dial. How much did you give for that 3035? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyldare Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 C&B dark brown strap came in for my 16013. Looks awesome with the 18k gold bezel and the dial. I'm very impressed with the softness and quality of the leather. Pretty good value for ~$30 IMO. Plus the guy that runs the business is a member of a BMW forum that I visit frequently so it's nice to support someone from another online community I am a part of! Hopefully I'm allowed to post that little plug, although I'm in no way affiliated with the business haha. LMK if I should edit it out pls! I also ran into a little problem with the 3035 when I first put the movement in the case. I had never done anything like that before, so I didn't know exactly how to put the movement in. After securing the screws that hold the movement in place, I found that the rotor could not rotate when the caseback was screwed in completely. After searching for some 3035 photos online, I noticed that the two screws holding the movement in place seemed to be under a small lip in the inside of the case, rather than on top of the lip as I had secured them. You can see the screw in the bottom right of this photo that I linked from luxurytyme: I took out the stem and crown and figured out that you had to put the first screw in and screw it down almost completely and then rotate the movement so the screw ends up under the small lip. There's a small rounded notch in the the case that allows you to do this for each screw, one at a time. It's barely visible at the bottom of the photo that I linked above. Then you have to rotate the movement again with each screw under the lip to line up the crown/stem. This is where my question lies then: I'm supposed to then back those two screws out to press against the lip in the case, right? Or do I tighten the screws to the case underneath? I have them backed out now and everything seems to be tight and running perfectly, but I wanted to make sure I did it right. I apologize for this incredibly basic tutorial/explanation! Just wanted to document it just in case some other noob ran into the same problem down the line. The watch kept stopping as the rotor was seized, so it was very gratifying to figure it out for myself. I'm a big DIY guys when it comes to cars, so learning and tinkering with watches has been super fun. Making little discoveries and earning small little victories like this one are what hobbies are all about IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyldare Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Cool, i also got a 16013 case that needs a movement and dial. How much did you give for that 3035? I think I paid about $900 for the movement with the face and hands included. I have a feeling you might be able to find one cheaper on eBay right now as I've noticed another seller in Korea has flooded the market with a bunch of 3035 movements and 16013 cases within the last few weeks. I just picked up another 16013 (I think I mentioned this) case/caseback/crystal for like $150 less than I paid for the one pictured above. Seems like the glut of cases and movements available lately has slightly devalued 16013 parts. Might be a good time to buy! I'm definitely going to wait a few weeks to list this watch on eBay to let some of the potential competitors get sold first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Champagnesky Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 I think I paid about $900 for the movement with the face and hands included. I have a feeling you might be able to find one cheaper on eBay right now as I've noticed another seller in Korea has flooded the market with a bunch of 3035 movements and 16013 cases within the last few weeks. I just picked up another 16013 (I think I mentioned this) case/caseback/crystal for like $150 less than I paid for the one pictured above. Seems like the glut of cases and movements available lately has slightly devalued 16013 parts. Might be a good time to buy! I'm definitely going to wait a few weeks to list this watch on eBay to let some of the potential competitors get sold first.i will check it out. Did the case come with a bezel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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