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Font and dimensions of 9411/94010 caseback?


RickFlorida

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  • 4 weeks later...

Update Gents.  I finally fixed my computer which had a crapped out motherboard.

 

Now I can draw the initial layout and then send it to Jorrie to finish the vector.

 


Then as I promised, I will show you how to etch with precision... (provided Jorrie and I can create a satisfactory template.....  I'm still wondering if we can find the right font or one close to it at least).

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The trick to doing the Tudor case-backs is to get the engraving nice and deep.  I do this with several passes with a rotary engraver at about .001" per pass.  The stainless really eats up .1 and .2 mm bits...

Case-back 1.jpg

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10 hours ago, RickFlorida said:

Update Gents.  I finally fixed my computer which had a crapped out motherboard.

 

Now I can draw the initial layout and then send it to Jorrie to finish the vector.

 


Then as I promised, I will show you how to etch with precision... (provided Jorrie and I can create a satisfactory template.....  I'm still wondering if we can find the right font or one close to it at least).

I have a Raffles caseback that's collecting dust, send me a PM.

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The trick to doing the Tudor case-backs is to get the engraving nice and deep.  I do this with several passes with a rotary engraver at about .001" per pass.  The stainless really eats up .1 and .2 mm bits...

56b2cf6051d08_Case-back1.jpg.c448c809b0933cacac7924ba7d336a03.jpg

My Tudor 7928 is with JMB as we speak having some of his beautiful work :thumbsup:

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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"the last time I tried, the raffles caseback does not fit the cartel cases"

"try Automatico on this forum. He has raffle Tudor casebacks"

 

I finally found one toot case back from marrickvilleboy and it has 30.4mm threads and is 35.9mm od. There is no gasket groove in the case back and it will only fit cartel cases with the gasket mounted in the case. I had it on an old 'Abay' submariner case from about 15 years ago that I am eventually going to make into a tudor of some sort (yeah sure). I have a genuine tudor (no date?) dial but iirc it was too small for the Abay cases (as usual I can not find it). I thought I had more toot backs than just this one but that was all I found. The other Raffles case backs I found are unmarked on the outside and have polished backs like regular 5513 etc. They are all the same sizes as the Raffles toot back and fit my Abay cartel cases. 

For comparison I have an Abay 'comex 5514' from back then and the '729' case back has 30.4mm threads, same as the others but is 35.4mm in diameter, .5 mm less than the Raffles backs and most other Abay backs. It looks like most of the cartel (Abay was cartel) cases were alike back then. I still see 729 case backs on some watches for sale today but there is no way to tell if they have the same dimensions as the one I have.

Guess what else I found while looking for case backs?   Six (6) brand new replica submariner hollow mid link bracelets with 'sideways' coronets on the clasps. I will keep them for now and put them in a box marked 'sideways coronets' so I can keep up with them...had no idea I still had them. Also found a few new Abay submariner cases with working oem spec helium valves. I compared a valve from one with a genuine valve and they are the same, keeper spring and all. A trip down the memory lane of damn replicas! Ha! I need to take a picture of all this stuff and post it on VRF. They would form a lynch mob.    :pimp:

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Thank you for sharing everyone.   Especially JMB since you do this for $ that's kind of you to share info.

 

I just want to do the precision nitric etch so that people who want to give it a go may have an option.    Hopefully, the fellow who has an extra will sell me his to create the template.

 

 

Thanks again for all the discussion Gents!

 

I will update soon.

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If you can get decent depth with the acid you will probably be able to create sharper marking than I'm able to.  I would love to use, and have tried, a .1mm engraving bit but the tip is too fragile and the SS just eats them up.  I compromised on a .2mm tip which makes the corners, etc., a bit soft for my liking.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just an update.    Hologramet has sent me one through the mail from Sweden.  So I'm just wanting to get the Tudorcase in the mail so I can finish a template for the etching project.

 

Sorry for the delay but I figured it will be more accurate in the end.   (providing that donor caseback is fairly accurate in font and size).

 

 

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36 minutes ago, RickFlorida said:

Just an update.    Hologramet has sent me one through the mail from Sweden.  So I'm just wanting to get the Tudorcase in the mail so I can finish a template for the etching project.

 

Sorry for the delay but I figured it will be more accurate in the end.   (providing that donor caseback is fairly accurate in font and size).

 

 

I hope it's useful! :)

Looking forward to the results!

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  • 1 month later...

Just a note, after some absence both by Rick and me we have both returned to the forums and going to give this a follow up.

Rick I thought about this perhaps its even possible for you to SCAN the back casing? That way we would have a 1:1 flat reference for extra precision.
I would use this scan as a backdrop in illustrator combined with the measurements to get an exact replica.

Also the text kerning and other aspects need tweaking probably to get the best results.
Also the font in question is important. Perhaps its the "rolex font" but it could well be a older font type modded. 

Worst case scenario it does not match the rolex font and its not replicatbate in a 95% to 100% range.
If you would want to do it really good then one would need to replicate the font also which would be kinda time consuming.
 

But let us look at how things work out with the discussed workflow.

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We are finally at the next stage of trying to etch a decent engraving of a Tudor caseback.      One thing I have noticed.... is that Raffles NAILED the font perfectly.  I'm really impressed.    If only the Raffles Tudor caseback was not missing a gasket groove, then hands down his caseback is a great candidate to use if you ever find one.       But anyways, Raffles and I'm sure Yuki probably found the Roman style font that is used on originals.  I have not idea what exactly kind of Roman font it is but I think it's Roman because of the unique "T" in "Oyster".       Is anyone friends with Raffles or others who have created this font engraving before?   Anyways, we have the diagram done and now am just trying to create a template.  My only concern now is that I realized I can't use my method of choice in using an industrial laminator to adhere the template to the caseback before etching.  Because of the unflat shape, I will have to try photo etching.  But the results should be even better.

bothletters.jpg

diagram.png

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I forgot to mention JMB nailed the font as well, this goes without speaking.    If I were to have someone engrave it, it would be JMB.  In fact, even if I finish this experiment up, I may end up having him engrave the whole case for me.   I mostly want to see if this works.

On 4/16/2016 at 5:02 PM, jorrie said:

Just a note, after some absence both by Rick and me we have both returned to the forums and going to give this a follow up.

Rick I thought about this perhaps its even possible for you to SCAN the back casing? That way we would have a 1:1 flat reference for extra precision.
I would use this scan as a backdrop in illustrator combined with the measurements to get an exact replica.

Also the text kerning and other aspects need tweaking probably to get the best results.
Also the font in question is important. Perhaps its the "rolex font" but it could well be a older font type modded. 

Worst case scenario it does not match the rolex font and its not replicatbate in a 95% to 100% range.
If you would want to do it really good then one would need to replicate the font also which would be kinda time consuming.
 

But let us look at how things work out with the discussed workflow.

Just saw this note about scanning.  Yes, I'll send you a scan of the case too.

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No worries Jorrie.     Take your time.   I expect you may need more explaining anyways.        I don't even have all the materials for photo-etching yet anyways.  If you need 2 weeks or even longer before starting, no worries.

Edited by RickFlorida
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I don't think you are going to find a "stock" font that will work.  You are going to have to draw or trace each character.  If you really want a "font" you can get a font creator program, draw your letters, and then pull them into the font creator program and create a TT font.

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