UmpaHimself Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 Im having a hard time getting the caseback off my 1675 rep I got from Toro recently. It's the first time I am attempting to remove it. I want to try and age the hands a little bit but can't seem to get in. I have a sticky ball but I think it's too deflated so I ordered a cheap hand pump to try and fill it back up. I also tried a hand held plunger I got recently but it's a POS. Other then the sticky ball I'm not sure what to try. I would buy a Rolex specific set but I am not sure if my watch will match the size and spacing of those intended for the gens. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marrickvilleboy Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 two options that have worked for me. 1) duct tape rolled up around your four fingers - stick to back and turn. 2) super glue a bolt to the back of the case, wait for it to settle and then secure watch and use wrench - remove bolt using acetone later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UmpaHimself Posted January 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 46 minutes ago, marrickvilleboy said: two options that have worked for me. 1) duct tape rolled up around your four fingers - stick to back and turn. 2) super glue a bolt to the back of the case, wait for it to settle and then secure watch and use wrench - remove bolt using acetone later. Hmm, very interesting suggestions. Never heard those before. I may give it a go if the sticky ball doesn't work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
If you see Kay Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 Get a proper caseback opener. Even the fake made in China ones will work better than sticky balls or duct tape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UmpaHimself Posted January 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 1 minute ago, If you see Kay said: Get a proper caseback opener. Even the fake made in China ones will work better than sticky balls or duct tape Can you post a link of which one you're talking about? I've been looking at a couple but again, I am not sure the ones for the Rolex caseback will fit my rep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mymanmatt Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 You will need to get a bergeon set. That will do it. I always secure my watch heads and crank down on the case back. A ball won't touch it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liberacee Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 If the CB is well and truly stuck. You can do an old watchmakers trick, be it a hassle if no caseback machines or burgeon sets are available. 1) Super Glue a nut central on the reverse of CB. 2) After drying, clamp watch, and use wrench on bolt to remove CB (Will work 100/100%). 3) Once CB is removed from watch, remove rubber gasket if attached and submerge CB with bolt attached in an egg cup full of acetone (nail polish remover). After 5 minutes, the nut will come off and the once rock hard super glue will be a mere jelly you can peel off with your hands. Hope this helps, and if you don't need to do this at present, it's always a good trick to have up your sleeve if NOTHING else works! Best! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nanuq Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 Good advice... and when you're ready to reassemble, clean the threads on the caseback with waxed dental floss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liberacee Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 Good advice... and when you're ready to reassemble, clean the threads on the caseback with waxed dental floss. I never thought of that!! Nice pro-tip Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UmpaHimself Posted January 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 12 hours ago, mymanmatt said: You will need to get a bergeon set. That will do it. I always secure my watch heads and crank down on the case back. A ball won't touch it. That will fit any watch? 5 hours ago, Liberacee said: If the CB is well and truly stuck. You can do an old watchmakers trick, be it a hassle if no caseback machines or burgeon sets are available. 1) Super Glue a nut central on the reverse of CB. 2) After drying, clamp watch, and use wrench on bolt to remove CB (Will work 100/100%). 3) Once CB is removed from watch, remove rubber gasket if attached and submerge CB with bolt attached in an egg cup full of acetone (nail polish remover). After 5 minutes, the nut will come off and the once rock hard super glue will be a mere jelly you can peel off with your hands. Hope this helps, and if you don't need to do this at present, it's always a good trick to have up your sleeve if NOTHING else works! Best! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Great advice 5 hours ago, Nanuq said: Good advice... and when you're ready to reassemble, clean the threads on the caseback with waxed dental floss. Awesome Thanks very much guys. That's why forums are awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
If you see Kay Posted January 21, 2016 Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 Go on eBay and search " rolex caseback opener". It's the fist one. I got that one and it works on all my reps and gen Rolex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightwatch Posted January 21, 2016 Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 The nut-glue-remove tip is a nice one for an emergency. If You´ve got more than 1 Rolex just get the chinese Huaxing caseback removal tool set from ebay - costs between $15 and $20 once. It´s not only good to remove but even better to tighten watertight, plus You have a place to hold/keep/store it without even touching the caseback. Simplifies all work longterm and makes it practical/easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UmpaHimself Posted January 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 2 hours ago, Nightwatch said: The nut-glue-remove tip is a nice one for an emergency. If You´ve got more than 1 Rolex just get the chinese Huaxing caseback removal tool set from ebay - costs between $15 and $20 once. It´s not only good to remove but even better to tighten watertight, plus You have a place to hold/keep/store it without even touching the caseback. Simplifies all work longterm and makes it practical/easy. Is this the one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Watch-tool-rolex-tudor-Oyster-waterproof-watch-Screw-back-case-opener-5537-/401056522624 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leffew66 Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 I wouldn't force it take it to a watch jeweler. I had a buddy force one off, of a Sub and it messed the threads up. When he went to put it back on it wouldn't thread properly. The problem wasn't the case back it was the case. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 On 1/20/2016 at 6:40 AM, mymanmatt said: I always secure my watch heads and crank down on the case back. A ball won't touch it. Depending on what you mean by 'crank down', you should never apply alot of torque when installing a caseback. Snug, using the appropriate tool, is all that is needed. Any tighter & you run the risk of damaging threads, warping the caseback, coming into contact with the movement or having difficulty removing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nanuq Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 Consider a metal spring. Used properly, it will stretch and return to its original shape. This is called elastic deformation. When used improperly it will stretch too far and will not return to its original shape. This is called plastic deformation and it reduces the force the spring can produce, and ruins it. The threads on a bolt (or a caseback) act just like your fingers pulling the spring. When you tighten just enough, it stretches the bolt like a spring, and the spring tension holds pieces securely together. If you overtighten it, it will either strip the threads off, or it will cause plastic deformation so it can never produce the right tension again. It's important to lubricate threads when assembling so any torque you apply to the fastener (caseback) results in spring tension, not thread friction. Then you get accurate torque readings on assembly and non-stretched fasteners. And it's easier to disassemble later. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightwatch Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 On 1/21/2016 at 8:53 AM, UmpaHimself said: Is this the one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Watch-tool-rolex-tudor-Oyster-waterproof-watch-Screw-back-case-opener-5537-/401056522624 Hi, the one I purchased was this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231255146521?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT quite a bit cheaper and I think it´s the same. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UmpaHimself Posted January 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 4 hours ago, Nanuq said: Consider a metal spring. Used properly, it will stretch and return to its original shape. This is called elastic deformation. When used improperly it will stretch too far and will not return to its original shape. This is called plastic deformation and it reduces the force the spring can produce, and ruins it. The threads on a bolt (or a caseback) act just like your fingers pulling the spring. When you tighten just enough, it stretches the bolt like a spring, and the spring tension holds pieces securely together. If you overtighten it, it will either strip the threads off, or it will cause plastic deformation so it can never produce the right tension again. It's important to lubricate threads when assembling so any torque you apply to the fastener (caseback) results in spring tension, not thread friction. Then you get accurate torque readings on assembly and non-stretched fasteners. And it's easier to disassemble later. Great description. Well I ordered one of the Rolex style removers from Amazon which should arrive today with the same day Prime delivery since I ordered it last night. I'll see how that goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UmpaHimself Posted January 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 Thanks for all the help guys! The Rolex tool definitely did the trick, I'm glad I pulled the trigger on that. I fixed the indices that fell off. Yes you read that right. Apparently on this model from Toro, the indices are not painted on but are instead separate pieces probably not unlike the more modern style. But since I knew I didn't really want to put much money into this watch and had no idea on the specs, I didn't really want to buy a new dial so I was able to get them mounted back on the dial since they have a little pin that fits into the dial. Then I took the liberty to age the lume using felt tip Tombo markers which I think came out really great and a little espresso bubbles to add a bit of an oxidized look. However, after I reassembled everything the date/GMT won't change in the 1st position. The date does change at 12AM still but the GMT hand seems stuck. It tries to advance but then jumps back to it's original place. Not sure what I've done here. Take a look at the lume color though: Started like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightwatch Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Wow, the 1675 is exactly the rep I am researching and You´re building one:) The aging of the hands is fine but the washed/faded look of the insert is absolutely amazing! (was it achieved with bleach?) The bracelet difference is huge for the character of this watch - and learned to be careful with it being a GMT - movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UmpaHimself Posted January 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 7 minutes ago, Nightwatch said: Wow, the 1675 is exactly the rep I am researching and You´re building one:) The aging of the hands is fine but the washed/faded look of the insert is absolutely amazing! (was it achieved with bleach?) The bracelet difference is huge for the character of this watch - and learned to be careful with it being a GMT - movement. Thanks, I swapped the stock insert for this one from WSO: http://www.ebay.com/itm/160841349059?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT It was already faded slightly from them but I bleached it even further and aged it a bit. Also, take a look at this thread I started here: All I can say is set your expectations for things to be far from perfect and you'll be fine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightwatch Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Hi, thx, so I know where to get the insert, have bought from Wso before:) On to read Your build thread, thx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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