Advice: intime.co Watches QC Dept check on my new Rolex Submariner Smurf

[ChrisBlank]

Dear Brothers,

I have just ordered my first Rolex Replica online. I have purchased many replicas in the past before, in my home country Vietnam, but this is the first time I have ordered one online.

I was wondering if anyone could help me with the quality check on this watch...

The model is:

BP Maker Submariner Blue Ceramic Swiss ETA 2836 28800 SS

and I have paid $325 after shipping.

I have included an image of what I see to be are some problems, but I believe an extra set of eyes from thus community could help me make a better purchase.

 

Thank you for any help that you guys are able to provide. 

Screenshot_2016-05-18-18-39-42

[hologramet]

Rehaut alignment looks good (from the very narrow angle)

Dial looks good

Bezel insert looks ok

SEL-fitment isn't the best

Crystal looks well-aligned

Date wheel overlay looks centered

 

 

Other than that, what is there to say... A good BP-Sub.

[ChrisBlank]

What do you think about the platinum colored engravings? What are the dark areas?

I have posted this photo highlighting areas that I think might be a few issues, but maybe it's just dirt...

 

Also does the bottom of the case appear scratched?

Screenshot_2016-05-18-18-39-42

Screenshot_2016-05-18-19-07-03

[Avenue]

43 minutes ago, hologramet said:

Rehaut alignment looks good (from the very narrow angle)

Dial looks good

Bezel insert looks ok

SEL-fitment isn't the best

Crystal looks well-aligned

Date wheel overlay looks centered

 

 

Other than that, what is there to say... A good BP-Sub.

 

Seems like you always know what to look for very well, helps many members out. 

Would you be so kind and explain me what to look for in QC pics regarding SEL-Fitment? I can spot the rest fairly well but I keep being troubled by the SEL-fitment.

Thank you for your kindness. 

37 minutes ago, ChrisBlank said:

What do you think about the platinum colored engravings? What are the dark areas?

I have posted this photo highlighting areas that I think might be a few issues, but maybe it's just dirt...

 

Also does the bottom of the case appear scratched?

Screenshot_2016-05-18-18-39-42

Screenshot_2016-05-18-19-07-03

 

 

The bottom of the case does not appear scratched to me, just very strong lightning conditions to take pictures highlight the brushing done on the watch.

You also mentioned the platinum coloured engravings on the bezel insert, they indeed look kind of odd to me as well. The "10" and the "50" differ in color from the rest of the numbers, and that's not a lightning problem but seems to be slightly under-filled with paint or perhaps a slight different color mix (if you ask me). I would mention this in response to the QC pics and ask if they can swap the bezel insert for a different one. 

My advice: Do not let them change the watch because, as hologramnet said, the rest of the watch looks perfectly fine straight from factory; consider yourself "lucky" for not getting crooked cyclops, misaligned rehaut, uncentered date, etc. So try to get them to swap only the insert instead of the entire watch!

 

[ChrisBlank]

Avenue,

Thanks for that recommendation. I have already passed along the request to the QC Team.

Hopefully I will get a positive reply from them. 

Has anyone ever used this dealer before?

Thanks for the suggestion. 

[hologramet]

@Avenue @ChrisBlank

I've just picked up what others have taught, reading the Rolex-forums here, on RWI, RG and so on. A lot can be found using the search function either here or on google.

 

A good "background" to start is this:

http://rwg.cc/topic/142137-gen-rolex-gmt-master-ii-ceramic-vs-noob-rep

Although it's from 2012 and GMTc, the basics are still valid.

 

Then look at genuine pictures, and Noob v6s and compare to other reps.

Go to a Rolex AD and feel + look at the watch in question.

 

I'm using the Noob v6s (as the bracelet is almost spot-on) as example and pictures from InTime (since the lighting is excellent!)

Okay, step 1,

The angle & lengths

REP

GEN

^
1) The angle of the "middle link" in the SEL is a bit "higher" and less slope than the case lugs slope ; 

2) It is also (of course) longer

^

1) The "outer links" start by following the slope of the case lugs, but then starts declining and has a higher slope around the middle of the distance

REP

^

2) They are shorter

 

Step 2, tightness and flush

^ The backside should basically sit flush to the case (a little tiny gap, yeah) however the level of the SEL should neither create a "step up" or a "step down"

^ also the gap between the lugs and the SEL should be tight (little light passing through). TC, that makes the classic Sub 11610 matches his SELs/bracelets with different tolerances to create this effect.

However... there is no such thing as a gap-less bracelet. 

GEN

 

----

 

 

When you think you've picked up what it's all about, check this thread out:

http://rwg.cc/topic/183576-noob-116610-v6s-sel-irregularities

 

 

Train that eagle eye.  It was hard in the beginning, I didn't understand all the SEL-talk either...

---------------------------------------

 

Also.. I should add. The SEL-fitment is that way on most BPs. It simply has to do with the fact that the BP-bracelet isn't "100%" so... Live with it, or look for a JF / LF-bracelet in the the M2M-ads. I would chose to live with it and accept it's flaws.

Otherwise... The mish-mashing begins, and you will notice how you suddenly have a Noob v3/v6s midcase, gen bezel insert, LF/Noob-bracelet, gen crown, gen crystal, TC LV v2-hands, relumed dial+hands and a big hole in your pocket and spare parts you have no use for.

[ChrisBlank]

2 hours ago, Avenue said:

You cannot, I just replied on your other thread. PM a Mod to close/delete this thread. :-)

 

 

1 hour ago, hologramet said:

Train that eagle eye.  It was hard in the beginning, I didn't understand all the SEL-talk either...

---------------------------------------

 

Also.. I should add. The SEL-fitment is that way on most BPs. It simply has to do with the fact that the BP-bracelet isn't "100%" so... Live with it, or look for a JF / LF-bracelet in the the M2M-ads. I would chose to live with it and accept it's flaws.

Otherwise... The mish-mashing begins, and you will notice how you suddenly have a Noob v3/v6s midcase, gen bezel insert, LF/Noob-bracelet, gen crown, gen crystal, TC LV v2-hands, relumed dial+hands and a big hole in your pocket and spare parts you have no use for.

What a well informed statement. Thank you!

[Avenue]

2 hours ago, hologramet said:

@Avenue @ChrisBlank

Train that eagle eye.  It was hard in the beginning, I didn't understand all the SEL-talk either...

 

 

Thanks for your very detailed explanation. Read it all and have learned a lot.

 

Is it possible to receive 100% v6s from dealers right now? And does BK (if you order from him) make sure that the watch is v6s?

 

[ChrisBlank]

@hologramet @Avenue

UPDATE:

The reply from the QC Team was at this price and model, this is all they can do. The best they can provide.

They can provide a refund if I'm not satisfied with the product.

In your opinion, is this an ok deal, or are these flaws a deal breaker?

Thanks for your input...

[hologramet]

The insert is OK, but the new BP ones are much better (the ones with "wrapped" bezels, bracelets etc...). Don't know if they released a new Smurf however.

---

Ask yourself, why do you want the Rolex Smurf? I'm going to do it easy for you. You don't want to regret the buy in half a year, and feel like one of those guys with a 200k $ "Tourbillon" VC or Patek and driving a 10k $ VW Polo.

I'm not shallow, and actually don't care about being "called out" as I always say it's a replica/assembled from combination of real and aftermarket parts. BUT the fastest form of communication we send to others is the "iconic" communication. You will more likely be assumed to be shallow/materialistic if you show up at work with foundation, fake Gucci sunglasses, LV bag and pinstripe suit.  especially if you work at a call centre.

You might create obstacles socially before you even open your mouth for the first time. Why constantly paddle up stream?

 

Sooooo... Let's get back to the point.

Why do you want to purchase a rep of a watch that is "white gold" and costs numerous times more than a regular LN or LV? Unless you invested in Apple 1998 and just sold your stocks, the ones that know what it is, will most likely assume that it's fake. The ones that don't know that it's white gold and extremely expensive will also assume it's fake.

What I'm trying to say is wear a watch that's right for you, your age, your profession. If you're 20-30 the Black Bay is much more suitable than a Smurf. Or a SM300? Maaaaaaybe a 114060/116610.

If you just like the design. And the color isn't thaaaaat important. Just buy the Noob V6s LN.

---

To finish my jumpy rant off...

If you really want the LB, buy that one. It's about as good as they get from that model/maker (I think),

If you now have doubts about the watch, or you want a near perfect rep, reconsider other alternatives.

 

/V

 

11 hours ago, Avenue said:

Is it possible to receive 100% v6s from dealers right now? And does BK (if you order from him) make sure that the watch is v6s?

 

1) Yes

2) I think so. However nowadays, BK is just a glorified drop-shipper that has a good partner in the Orient, that picks among the better ones. Also, the Swiss ETA is from factory, and usually dusty, used. In my opinion it's better to save the extra cash and invest in a gen crystal and a movement clean + regulation of an A2836

Cheers,

[pcardoza]

Close inspection of these high quality close-up photos ALWAYS generates a lot of angst, because every microscopic detail is revealed.   99% of the flaws you see in those pics will be invisible on your wrist and at a normal viewing distance.   

I'd be willing to bet that real life close-up photos of the gen model would reveal a number of microscopic flaws as well.   Those gen photos you see in advertisements are most certainly photo-shopped to perfection.

If there are no glaring flaws, take the watch and I'll bet you'll be thrilled with the results.

[Mike on a bike]

To echo pcardoza relax a bit and just so everybody knows NO they aren't going to switch a bezel insert for you (you guys who have been around know this, nobody told him not to bother to ask..................) , they get the entire watch from factory all done they have no stock of parts. This looks like a good one all in all FYI, keep your expectations realistic how much is this and how much is the gen....................... Send it out for the plat. mod on numbers once you get it if that's all you have wrong.

[Avenue]

12 minutes ago, Mike on a bike said:

Send it out for the plat. mod on numbers once you get it if that's all you have wrong.

 

I agree with this, as said before; you've gotten quite "lucky" with those qc pics as it does not have many flaws at all. Look up "PPP-Mod" or "Platinum Paint mod" on forums/google and you'll find very handy links. Depending on where you live, you will find a suited watchmaker/modder on this forums (or possibly RWI) that will get the job done for you. It'll probably cost you an additional amount of $80 (Incl. shipping if done locally.) 

 

7 hours ago, hologramet said:

Ask yourself, why do you want the Rolex Smurf? I'm going to do it easy for you. You don't want to regret the buy in half a year, and feel like one of those guys with a 200k $ "Tourbillon" VC or Patek and driving a 10k $ VW Polo.

What I'm trying to say is wear a watch that's right for you, your age, your profession. If you're 20-30 the Black Bay is much more suitable than a Smurf. Or a SM300? Maaaaaaybe a 114060/116610.

If you just like the design. And the color isn't thaaaaat important. Just buy the Noob V6s LN.

---

To finish my jumpy rant off...

If you really want the LB, buy that one. It's about as good as they get from that model/maker (I think),

If you now have doubts about the watch, or you want a near perfect rep, reconsider other alternatives.

 

I also agree with what holo has to say about this, it might feel a little direct, but at least it's a very honest opinion and hidden advice.

The smurf is indeed white gold, and is WAY more expensive as a genuine compared to the 116610 LV / LN. (Rolex Submariner Black ceramic date / HULK) as those are just steel. The design is exactly the same, just a material and color difference and a HUGE price difference.

If you can pull it off and are really fond of the smurf, don't hesitate and go for it. You're the only one who can make this decision. In my honest opinion, if you indeed want to buy a near-perfect rep with no flaws which fits in the picture on your wrist, go for the "standard" models and not a white gold version. You will not be annoyed by the bezel insert as it's near perfect and it (most likely) won't have any flaws that you could be bothered about. 

It's your own choice, but if you are in love with the model and the "Submariner" idea, the feeling and looks, I'd recommend you to drop this one and go for the 116610 LN / LV V6s that dealers currently offer. In the end, it's your choice and you should be happy with whatever you decide to choose. 

35 minutes ago, pcardoza said:

If there are no glaring flaws, take the watch and I'll bet you'll be thrilled with the results.

Before you start to think you can buy a 100% 1:1 rep without any flaws by just being picky over qc pics; refer to above comment. Well said, as indeed those pictures are taken under very bright light / microscope to really give you a close-up of the watch to point out MAJOR flaws. If you have it in hand, even if you look real close, you won't notice these things due to natural lightning, the human eye, etc. You'll be very satisfied whatsoever. If you start to get more picky and more knowledge rich about flaws, imperfections, mods, etc. you could start fetching parts, modding things (PPP-mod) etc. 

[ChrisBlank]

@hologramet 

I just got back from an afternoon shopping trip in which I picked up a Gen brand new Hulk from the local dealer at PMT the hour glass.

As for the reason I wanted the Smurf, I'm a CEO and founder of the largest Pharmacy Chain in Vietnam. My Pharmacy's Signature colors are blue & green.

So, I don't think anyone would question me about my rolex's authenticity, though several people are surprised to learn that many pieces in my collection at in fact replicas, as I never hide the fact. I'm actually very proud of my replica collection. 

As I mentioned in the first post, this was the first time I was buying online. I decided to buy online because I was specifically looking for this watch, and I have yet to find a good replica or genuine in Vietnam where I live.

As for why I was looking for advice on this forum, that's because I really value the quality of the details in the replicas. As you rightly mentioned, no one wants to get buyers remorse, especially if that remorse comes because of poor quality, something that could have been handled by rigorous inspection at the QC phase.

.....

Back on topic to my Smurf acquisition, the QC Team at Intime.co is suggesting I buy a Noob V2, and that it is better quality thanthe BP Maker I was ordering. 

I asked to order both and have them Frankenstein it for me, but it seems they don't want to do that. I might have to do it myself. I'm sure with all the advice in this forum I would be able to figure out how to do it right.

I love models, replicas & fine details.

I'm actually kind of lookingforward to this Franken project. 

@pcardoza

I took your advice. I asked them to ship it over. I figure I could make some mods to it if it isn't what I expected it to be right out of the box.

@Avenue

Your advice was also an influence, so thanks. I suppose if it comes and I'm not completely satisfied, I'll be able to mod it. Turn it into a project.

I'm actually looking forward to it.

 

Edited May 19, 2016 by ChrisBlank
Fomat

[hologramet]

@ChrisBlank

It seems like you understood me right. I'm very direct in my tone, but it's from my line of work. Let's just say that we are in the same business. I'm actually one of the reasons that your pharmacy chain probably is selling less antibiotics.

Sentimental value and personal success and financial wealth should sometimes be rewarded. I for one chose a very different approach and my interest in reps is founded in the fact that I "can". I would rather rather build a franken at 75% of the cost, and having a fun story to tell than buying it finished. Life is just a ride as Bill Hicks said. The ride is the meaning. Not the destination.

I like to do things the other way around. Instead of buying the top headphone amplifier, I decided to make a clone of it. And I did. Because I could. It probably cost me more. But I wanted to show that it was possible. I don't want to say more as I'm risking exposing and interconnecting different parts of my life that I don't want interconnected. I'm very fond of my internet integrity. As little info as possible. VPNs. Who knows what all the info that Google is accumulating can and will be used for.

...

I'm drifting away from topic. If you're goal was the LB, then I understand you. I've never given it too much thought.

 

If you have the funds and you are a bit like me, wanting to do something because it's possible. Franken it, but go all the way... Then go franken.

Noob v6s as stock watch, period. Everything is better on it. Well.. case engraving will actually look correct, but incorrect. Anyway... Who wears ceramics on NATOs? It look hideous.

Then get the best insert... This one might be tricky. Maybe you can get intime to smooth talk BP and allowing you to purchase an insert

and the best dial BP most likely and add to it. +25 USD

Add a gen AR'd crystal aprox +200-400EUR

Rework + repolish case + bracelet aprox +100-200 EUR

Add TC LV v2 hands +45 EUR

Add TC v4 DWO +45 EUR

Relume job with genuine Superluminova BGW9 +120 EUR

If you really want to go crazy... Throw in a Yuki 3135 clone movement and add the gen parts needed. Now we're talking about +1200 EUR. In that case no TC LV v2 hands, instead gen 116610 hands, +100-300 EUR

Add gen crown 120EUR

 

 

Now everything that is a tell depends on the how well the

1) SS can be made to look white goldish, and that is in short, not much

2) The bezel insert will most likely also give it a way if someone brings a loupe!

 

Cheers,

holo

[jimmyd750]

Buy it

Sent from my SM-G386T using Tapatalk

[ChrisBlank]

@Avenue @hologramet

The gentleman over at Intime.co have politely sent me a message informing me that the noob v2 is actually a better make than the BP Maker that I'm looking. I have asked him to shoot me over a couple of options so I could choose the best one.

I have also decided to get a replica tudor pelagos added onto the order.

I'll keep you guys updated.

By the way what is the difference between the different noob versions? 

It would be cool if there was a cross reference chart or something available on this forum so that we could easily distinguish differenceso between the model variations.

Maybe if I could eventually gather up all the information I will put one together to contribute to the community. 

[emdeevee]

The Noob is awesome, but the BP dial is still much better. I have a Noob with a BP dial!

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk

[hologramet]

4 hours ago, emdeevee said:

The Noob is awesome, but the BP dial is still much better. I have a Noob with a BP dial!

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk

You are so right! BP-dials are almost always better than the Noob-ones. And they often cost about 25USD from a TD (if you buy something else also)

Or buy a gen for 400-700 USD and clip the feet! Hard decision...

[Avenue]

On 20 May 2016 at 3:19 PM, ChrisBlank said:

@Avenue @hologramet

It would be cool if there was a cross reference chart or something available on this forum so that we could easily distinguish differenceso between the model variations.

Maybe if I could eventually gather up all the information I will put one together to contribute to the community. 

Looking forward to it. If you have any questions, me and/or holo would be able to help you out, of course. 

 

@hologramet actually, you have a PM in your inbox. 

[hologramet]

@Avenue and @ChrisBlank

I would still buy the Noob v6s LN and switch the dial to a BP one and look for a good insert. Then relume with BGW9 Superluminova.

Hontestly that is as good as they get without going through too much hassle.

P.s. I will reply to both your PMs tomorrow... Swamped at work...

[emdeevee]

You are so right! BP-dials are almost always better than the Noob-ones. And they often cost about 25USD from a TD (if you buy something else also)

Or buy a gen for 400-700 USD and clip the feet! Hard decision...

I wish mine had cost 25! I bought both watches and switched the dials!!

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk

[508-Fanatic]

 

I love all you guys. Seriously this thread and the helpfulness is another shining example of how amazing this board is. 

[ChrisBlank]

Hi guys!

I got this beauty coming soon. 

And before anyone mentions it, I'm aware of the SEL issue. This is a BP Maker, maybe later I'll get a Noob bracelet and replace the current one.

[Triplock]

On May 24, 2016 at 11:44 PM, ChrisBlank said:

Hi guys!

I got this beauty coming soon. 

And before anyone mentions it, I'm aware of the SEL issue. This is a BP Maker, maybe later I'll get a Noob bracelet and replace the current one.

I would say that movement needs timing and regulation to get the beat error down. 0.5ms is right at the edge of an acceptable limit.