An opinion on this 1665 DRSD case reshaping process

[GenTLe]

Hi All,
it's my 1st reshape, so I'd like to have some comment from the experts to check if I did a mess or I'm proceeding well. And if you have some suggestion to give me.
One crown guard and the relative lug have been reshaped, the other is stock.
The lug holes have been already moved to 1.25mm

Thank you.
GenTLe

[freddy333]

Looks good so far, but, as always, you should find & use a single gen as a guide & simply replicate the 'patina' on that gen. Otherwise, you are effectively somewhat blindly throwing darts at a dartboard.

[GenTLe]

Thanks Freddy, I'm using the pics from the web: there is a colleague that have a DRSD gen, and he wasn't aware of the value... When I told him he stopped to use it and so now only web

[freddy333]

Nanuq has a gen DRSD, which is 1 that I have used as a model before. I am sure if you ask nicely, he might provide an image or 2 (or you could just use the RWG search).

[Nanuq]

Like Freddy said, pick a target and focus on it. And pay attention to the side profile of the CGs, they have a very distinctive shape. Here's a reference if it's any help:

[GenTLe]

Thanks Nanuq! I surely went a bit too deep in the curve that link the CG and the lugs, 'cause I was looking at this one:

 

But It's ok, it's a rep in the end

[Nanuq]

Yeah that's a tricky curve to replicate. Here's some more:

[freddy333]

Keep in mind that these are old watches that have likely been serviced (& polished) multiple times over the years. So there is likely to be wide variations of wear & finish. I think it is more important that all of the parts appear to have the same patina rather than worrying about getting a curve or individual detail 'correct'.
Most long-term Rolex collectors will tell you that a gen 'just feels right', which is another way of saying that everything appears to be the same vintage & nothing sticks out as being wrong.

[Nanuq]

Exactly. Your eye sees things your brain doesn't register and your subconscious puts it all together as acceptably coherent or as a disjointed collection of pieces.

For example what is it about the Delgado picture that "feels" wrong? Look at the perfect brushed surface around the perimeter of the highly worn caseback. That doesn't add up. Then look at my brushed ring around my caseback. It's full of tiny scratches and marks from hard use. THAT adds up but your eye doesn't see it until it's had a comparison that isn't quite right.

[GenTLe]

Ok, here we go.
With the macro shot some of the tiny scratch (invisible at naked eye) emerge, but I'm fine with it: I'm bored to mess around with the grinding and polish paste, it's a DIRTY process 

I know it's nor perfect, but I'm not trying to sell it as gen, so "it's good enough"  I'm not satisfied by the "vintagization" of the bezel insert anyway... I bought another from CousinsUK, let's see. I'd like to move the pearl from this one to that one...

[GenTLe]

Since I've seen people breaking the crystal trying to keep the watch in position (i.e. for lugs redrilling), let me share my way:

It works perfectly and doesn't ruin the case.

[dbane883]

Why wouldn't you just remove the crystal and retaining ring? I remove the tube as well. You get a lot more freedom when the crystal is not there.
Plus there can be a tremendous amount of heat generated from polishing/grinding that could deform the plexi. Just curious.

[freddy333]

38 minutes ago, dbane883 said:

Why wouldn't you just remove the crystal and retaining ring? I remove the tube as well.

Ditto.

[Tribal]

By the Way, with the right Drills you can drill the Lugholes by hand easily.

Gesendet von meinem MI 4S mit Tapatalk

[Nanuq]

Yes.... but go slow. Ask me how I drilled a hole clear through my right thumb.

[freddy333]

1 hour ago, Tribal said:

By the Way, with the right Drills you can drill the Lugholes by hand easily.

Gesendet von meinem MI 4S mit Tapatalk
 

 

7 minutes ago, Nanuq said:

Yes.... but go slow. Ask me how I drilled a hole clear through my right thumb.

All of the lugs in my project cases were done with a hand drill & I still have all 10 fingers (w/o holes).

[GenTLe]

Why wouldn't you just remove the crystal and retaining ring? I remove the tube as well. You get a lot more freedom when the crystal is not there.
Plus there can be a tremendous amount of heat generated from polishing/grinding that could deform the plexi. Just curious.

Tube was removed (see pics at the beginning of the thread), what you see in the last pics is the Athaya one already installed. Plexy ring: not sure if possible without a bezel remover... But I have been careful with the heat during the process

All of the lugs in my project cases were done with a hand drill & I still have all 10 fingers (w/o holes).

Mine too: Brand new cobalt 1.25mm bit and battery drill/screwer (the Ikea one: I have 3 power drills and a column one but the Ikea one was the lightest to handle and the column was vibrating a bit too much for such small bit).

[hunvaakaren]

Nice, any updates on this project?

[emameme]

Mine too: Brand new cobalt 1.25mm bit and battery drill/screwer (the Ikea one: I have 3 power drills and a column one but the Ikea one was the lightest to handle and the column was vibrating a bit too much for such small bit).

I have drill mine with hands, but for push back the broken tip i have broken the crystal.(my fault, i didnt want to disassembly all watch). Your mod on the case is not bad, seem to be very symmetric.

Inviato dal mio A0001 utilizzando Tapatalk

[GenTLe]

3 hours ago, hunvaakaren said:

Nice, any updates on this project?

Yestarday eve I spent some time to cleanup well the lab and I tested the water resistance: with the new Athaya crown we are at least at 5.5ATM

[hunvaakaren]

Yestarday eve I spent some time to cleanup well the lab and I tested the water resistance: with the new Athaya crown we are at least at 5.5ATM

That's nice, I've read on the internet that it is hard to waterproof 1665, even genuine 1665?

What other parts will you use for this build? Genuine parts?

[GenTLe]

Just now, hunvaakaren said:

 

 

That's nice, I've read on the internet that it is hard to waterproof 1665, even genuine 1665?

What other parts will you use for this build? Genuine parts?
 

 

 

Naa, I don't want to spend hundreds of $ on a watch that, in the end, is still not original. I don't get the "frankens". So I'll put inside a 21600 swiss eta 2846 (bought for like 45$ and serviced) and re-assemble all. I also ordered a cousinUK spare bezel to check how it is in comparison with the one that came with the watch.

[GenTLe]

Removed and reglued the dwo:

[GenTLe]

So... it has been finished

The jobs done on it:
- case reshaped
- lug holes drilled to accept gen-like spring bars
- bezel spring replaced with a CousinUK Rolex aftermarket one, this solved the loose bezel problem
- DWO repositioned
- movement replaced with an ETA 2846 (21600BPH) taken from an old 1992 Automatic swatch, serviced and with mainspring, 4th wheel, cannon pinion and hour wheel from the original 2836 (in order to have good power and the right height of hands over the dial)
- Athaya 702 crown and tube

Pic following

 

The "dirt" on the hour hand is just a reflection. There're no spots on it.

Edited October 26, 2016 by GenTLe

[RickFlorida]

On 8/30/2016 at 10:02 AM, Nanuq said:

Yes.... but go slow. Ask me how I drilled a hole clear through my right thumb.

I make jewelry on the side and last year I drilled right through my thumb as well.   It didn't hurt much but freaked me out.  I probably have silver shavings inside me still.