Eta clone, if only I knew better

[Timelord]

In my opinion I would avoid eta clones resulting from my following experiences.

(1)  out of 5 that I have used, they all had problems with keyless works.  No matter how many times I have removed the stem in the time settling position, the setting lever always goes out of line where the parts easily stretch or do not mesh properly.  Try and replace a part and rest assured that it will not necessarily blend with the rest.

 

(2)  had the yoke snapping when pulling out the stem on one of them

(3)   the coverplate spring also snapped on two of them when trying to engage the bottom and top ,

(4)  had a screw split in half while trying to screw it onto the main plate of the balance bridge  Was definitely not using a jack hammer to screw it in!!!

(5)  roller jewel falling off the balance landing somewhere in the movement, therefore the balance wheel stopped regardless

(6) the screws on the automatic bridge would not hold the automatic bridge down properly as the internal main plate thread was threaded hence the automatic bridge dislodged slightly off and not transmitting the wind onto the ratchet wheel through to the mainspring

(7) reverser wheels. do not even know where to start from bad to worse or from worse to more worse!!

(7) upon dismantling the movement, most of the pivots were dry and unoiled which is to be expected as they are assembled i slave sweat workshops somewhere in the never never land.

It may be argued that I might not know what I am doing,?  You are entitled to your opinion too, but in the past whenever I have dismantled and assembled a genuine eta movement ( more than one occasion),  I have never experienced any of the above problems.  The worst I have experience is that the movement did not run, until I rectified the problem.  I am not saying that some have never had a better luck of the draw, but each to their own.  The above are my opinion which I wish I knew before and to share with members who think twice about if it is worth the extra $100 to buy a genuine or risk with the clone.

[automatico]

"In my opinion I would avoid eta clones resulting from my following experiences."

 

Imho Asian eta clones are hammer bait. 

 

Sucker..."How much is a crown for my Relax watch?"

Jackal..."Twenty one hundred dollars."

Sucker..."What?  For a crown!!"

Jackal..."That's just for the crown but we do not sell parts.  We also demand you get the Mandatory Factory Expert Repair Service (aka MFERS) at an additional seventeen thousand dollars...or one kidney.  Plus tax."

Sucker..."Guess I'll have to take the kidney deal."

Jackal…"Whizz in this cup while I watch closely." 

[NCRich]

3 hours ago, thegrail said:

I’ve had problems with keyless works in the past, but I was removing stems wrongly, now I know how to remove stems correctly I have not had any problems I used to pull stems out to adjustment level, before pushing button to get out, this is wrong, you need to push button when it’s in position 1, I’ve done several since including a genuine Rolex Datejust, genuine Breitling 7750, and several eta watches,  I’ve also rebuilt keyless works and most movement faults.

 

Trial and error has taught me that you are correct, regardless of what I've read.  Especially with asian clone etas.

[horologist]

I have never had a problem removing the stem in the time setting position!  

 

Makes sense if you see what happens in

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bIaS4tiG7q8

 

The only time I did have issues was when I removed them in different positions such as in the winding position for example and it was because I  was working on two different things at once having forgotten to pull stem out in winding position.  As for the clones it makes no difference as they might as well be made of kitchen foil as I steer away from them ( also my opinion!)!

[Timelord]

I also do as Horologist does!  Before I release the stem by pressing the pin, I pull the stem out to the time setting position ie. all the way out !   It is advisable in order to "reduce the risk" of getting the keyless works out of position.   I myself have never failed using this method!  I have only failed when removing in other positions, however, that isn't to say that you cannot be lucky and not run into problems when in other positions .  I guess it depends on how the individual parts are sitting at the time on pressing the release pin!

 

An important point which rarely gets mentioned is that when pressing on the release pin, never use a pointy object such as a pin or tooth pick as it is advisable to use the smallest screw driver to push it down to avoid the release pin going down too far.

 

as with eta clones I even had problems with the valanvron Swiss which I do not find it to be that much better than the Asian clones- my opinion!

[mymanmatt]

Interesting post. My luck with the clones has been good. However, over the past year I have noticed a repeat problem with several movements. For some reason the mainspring tub gets in a bind with the fourth wheel. The watch stops. I take my fingernail and rock the mainspring tub back and forth and it will begin to run. It continues to run without any problem. I've had a couple out for a year and they are still running. I've been searching for a reason for this problem, but to date I cannot figure out what causes this. As for the keyless works, if I don't remove the stem in the time set position, I cannot get it back in place. The set lever will not allow me to fully engage the stem. In my opinion the swiss are worth the extra money. Of course they have problems too, but not nearly as often as the clones. The quality of the parts and the fit is much better in the swiss than the clones. I've also noticed in the past few years a difference in the quality of clones. Some seem to be really cheaply made and others seem to be really good with better quality parts. I think the suppliers know which one of the clones is better. Those are the ones I request when buying from my supplier. Good luck to all!

[automatico]

"In my opinion the swiss are worth the extra money."

 

I agree if the watch is worth it. 

Otoh, many of my project watches are only worth the swiss ETA movement inside them.  Sad but true.

 

 (swiss ETA movements)  "Of course they have problems too, but not nearly as often as the clones.  The quality of the parts and the fit is much better in the swiss than the clones."

 

True.

Most of the trouble I have had with 28xx swiss ETA movements has been in the autowind assembly, the reversers are sensitive to lubrication. 

 

Read the whole thread:

https://forums.watchuseek.com/f6/lubricating-reversing-wheels-eta-2836-2-a-3600882.html

 

 

[Timelord]

On 23 September 2019 at 9:05 AM, automatico said:

"

Otoh, many of my project watches are only worth the swiss ETA movement inside them.  Sad but true.

 

 

I guess we can say the same for some genuine lines as well!! 

 

I have a plated tag heuer where the brass is showing through the worn plating!  It is almost to the point where there is a dip between the case back and the mid case!   

 

I also had some vintage plated Omegas and Breitlings with similar problems where the lugs have worn off that I needed to put epoxy to hold the spring bar.  I kept the movements for their value as the cases were throw aways!

 

I accept that most of our project watch cases are what they are, but I have been fairly satisfied with them.  To mention  a couple are; the old F series noobmariner which mine has been water resistant enough to swim with and some of Yuki and helenerou cases have been quite good also.  I wouldn't mind buying any of them watches for the value of just the genuine eta only!!

Edited September 28, 2019 by Timelord
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