Porterjrm Posted February 26, 2020 Report Share Posted February 26, 2020 I am going to be building a 1016 and need to decide on a serial number/year. I am curious how to create a serial number to reflect a certain year any advice? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted February 28, 2020 Report Share Posted February 28, 2020 "I am curious how to create a serial number to reflect a certain year any advice?" Decide exactly which version you want and find out when it was made, there are a few subtle differences over the years. Next, look at a serial number chart to find what numbers appeared each year. Free advice: Don't blow a lot of $$ on a project with a so-so case/bracelet and Asian or Eta movement with a replica dial. A '1016' project with genuine movement, dial, hands, crown, bracelet etc with other than a genuine 1016 case is not worth much more than the sum of the parts to an informed buyer. I stuck two together, one with 160xx case and one with 162xx case...parted them both out because they were basically worth more for parts because of rising rlx parts prices. Of the two genuine cases, the 160xx was probably closer to a 1016. Ended up with a JMB case, Eta, replica dial and bracelet for a small fraction of either Frankenstein. The JMB looks/runs the same and the bracelet hoods cover the serial/reference # if it had any. These projects can eat your lunch. https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-serial-numbers https://rwg.cc/topic/169685-rolex-1016-built-mod-a-jmb-case-to-gen-specs-lots-of-pics Just saw this...it's a good deal because this is as good as it gets unless you go 100% genuine: https://rwg.cc/topic/195512-rolex-1016-almost-full-gen/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porterjrm Posted February 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2020 "I am curious how to create a serial number to reflect a certain year any advice?" Decide exactly which version you want and find out when it was made, there are a few subtle differences over the years. Next, look at a serial number chart to find what numbers appeared each year. Free advice: Don't blow a lot of $$ on a project with a so-so case/bracelet and Asian or Eta movement with a replica dial. A '1016' project with genuine movement, dial, hands, crown, bracelet etc with other than a genuine 1016 case is not worth much more than the sum of the parts to an informed buyer. I stuck two together, one with 160xx case and one with 162xx case...parted them both out because they were basically worth more for parts because of rising rlx parts prices. Of the two genuine cases, the 160xx was probably closer to a 1016. Ended up with a JMB case, Eta, replica dial and bracelet for a small fraction of either Frankenstein. The JMB looks/runs the same and the bracelet hoods cover the serial/reference # if it had any. These projects can eat your lunch. https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-serial-numbers https://rwg.cc/topic/169685-rolex-1016-built-mod-a-jmb-case-to-gen-specs-lots-of-pics Just saw this...it's a good deal because this is as good as it gets unless you go 100% genuine: https://rwg.cc/topic/195512-rolex-1016-almost-full-gen/ Thank you for the input and the sources. I’m building it with a JMB case and eta. Possibly 2846, I just need to decide on which dial I want to go with. So far I haven’t found any that are lumed how I’d like so I will likely have to get the dial and hands relumed. Are Yuki dials worth the price? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serafino Posted February 28, 2020 Report Share Posted February 28, 2020 Yuki dials can be worth the price depending on the specific one, what else is available, how impatient you are, and how good your eye for 1016 dials is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porterjrm Posted February 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2020 I don’t know too many sources yet, still new to this part of the watch game. I’ll keep a look out in the sales areas but other than that idk where to find rep dials. Yuki, Ruby’s, Raffles... that’s about where I know to look. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackflash Posted March 1, 2020 Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 Here’s the recipe for mine. JMB Case, Yuki dial, Clark hands, ETA 2824 movement. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porterjrm Posted March 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2020 Here’s the recipe for mine. JMB Case, Yuki dial, Clark hands, ETA 2824 movement. Exactly what I’m looking for. Aged lume at all or white? Hard to tell. Also, where’d you get the bracelet? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackflash Posted March 2, 2020 Report Share Posted March 2, 2020 Exactly what I’m looking for. Aged lume at all or white? Hard to tell. Also, where’d you get the bracelet? I just aged the lume with a few drops of coffee applied with a cocktail stick. Bracelet was from Yuki too if I remember rightly, it was a while ago though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porterjrm Posted March 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 I just aged the lume with a few drops of coffee applied with a cocktail stick. Bracelet was from Yuki too if I remember rightly, it was a while ago though.Which clark hands did you use? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackflash Posted March 3, 2020 Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 Which clark hands did you use? These:https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hands-ETA-2824-2824-2-shiny-silver-color-For-Rolex-Tudor-Submariner-/233264015398?nav=SEARCH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porterjrm Posted March 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2020 These:https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hands-ETA-2824-2824-2-shiny-silver-color-For-Rolex-Tudor-Submariner-/233264015398?nav=SEARCHPerfect, I’ve used those before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porterjrm Posted March 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 Got the JMB case with R59 serial for 1988. I need to get some better fitting end links. I’ll be using a hollow end link converted 93250 bracelet so I’ll need a correct clasp as well. This will have to do until I can find a 78360 bracelet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomhorn Posted March 10, 2020 Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 2 hours ago, Porterjrm said: Got the JMB case with R59 serial for 1988. I need to get some better fitting end links. I’ll be using a hollow end link converted 93250 bracelet so I’ll need a correct clasp as well. This will have to do until I can find a 78360 bracelet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro I used Mary's 7836 and WSO's 580 endlinks. Good combination for not a lot of $$$. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porterjrm Posted March 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2020 I used Mary's 7836 and WSO's 580 endlinks. Good combination for not a lot of $$$.Thought about that combination but for a late 80’s it should be a solid link not folded. I still may try it. Do you have a photo of yours?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted March 20, 2020 Report Share Posted March 20, 2020 You will need to use a 2824 in my case. Stem position on a 2846 is wrong. Automatico made a low-beat 2824, I think, by swapping in a couple of 2846 parts into the 2824... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porterjrm Posted March 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2020 You will need to use a 2824 in my case. Stem position on a 2846 is wrong. Automatico made a low-beat 2824, I think, by swapping in a couple of 2846 parts into the 2824...Decided to gut the date components from a tissot 2836 which will give it 2824 stem height and h4 pinion height. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted March 20, 2020 Report Share Posted March 20, 2020 OK, but still not a low beat. Have fun with the build. Won't be checking in much because right now I'm off-grid up in the mountains hiding from COVID-19. Not sure when I will be back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porterjrm Posted March 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2020 You will need to use a 2824 in my case. Stem position on a 2846 is wrong. Automatico made a low-beat 2824, I think, by swapping in a couple of 2846 parts into the 2824... Decided to gut the date components from a tissot 2836 which will give it 2824 stem height and h4 pinion height. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro OK, but still not a low beat. Have fun with the build. Won't be checking in much because right now I'm off-grid up in the mountains hiding from COVID-19. Not sure when I will be back. Right, I just got a good deal on a few movements. I’ll end up low beat eventually. I have a 5512 in the works with a 2522 in it for proper beat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted March 20, 2020 Report Share Posted March 20, 2020 Some combo movement info... https://rwg.cc/topic/192105-jmb-1016-project-update/ From the link above... "Note on the 2824/2846 'combo' movement: Been wearing it since yesterday afternoon and after 3 or 4 'trial and error' regulations it is about 5 or 7 seconds fast in a day. For now. Something else...I did not change out the shock jewels and springs to a matching pair but used the original 'Incabloc' type jewel/shock parts in the 2824 main plate and the 'Etachron' jewel/shock parts on the other side along with the 2846 balance complete, escape wheel, and pallet fork. I did not want to r/r the balance assembly into the other balance bridge and take the chance of #@&%ing the hairspring. The 2846 escapement parts are not finished as carefully as the 2824 parts and the balance wheel/hs are different alloys. A 2824 usually keeps better time. 'Usually' being the key word." Today... Since May 2018 I have worn the watch probably 30 or 40 days total and it still keeps time within 5 or 6 seconds a day. Imho this is outstanding for a movement made up of mostly used parts from here and there. I have a regular (not combo) 2846 in an old Abay '5514' case and it runs about the same until it gets low on reserve and it slows quite a bit. I have seen this before on 2846 movements, probably because of the relatively low grade escapements used in them. The 2846 in the '5514' case is from a 'store return' Jaques Prevard dive style watch from 20+ years ago that was c/o 4 or 5 years ago but not worn very much since then. Here is what the JP donor watch looked like: It was 17 jewel DD with the day works removed. The crown/case tube threads were fragile and a lot of them were returned. Picture from JACK'S TREASURE CHEST OF TIME PIECES BTW there is a 2846 on eBay for $75 + $5 shp from India that looks very good: eBay item number 303274282216 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porterjrm Posted March 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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