6265 Daytona - build help

[mountaineer]

I am considering building a 6265 Daytona in a case for a v72. 
 

Can you use a v23 in a v72 case? How hard is it to make a frozen subdial at 6?  I have done this with an st19 before. I not sure what extra parts are needed for v23. 
 

I appreciate the insight. 

[tomhorn]

Ubiquitous built one with a v72. I would search for his posts on the subject.

 

You can also start here, but there are also plenty of other posts on using a v23.

 

 

[freddy333]

The Valjoux 23 is a clone of the 72, but in bi- rather than tri-compax form (ie, 2 rather then 3 chrono subdials). So any case made for a V72 will also fit a V23.

The easiest way to 'freeze' a chrono hand is to permanently attach it to the dial with a tiny amount of cement or glue. The downside is that, if you look closely, you can see that the hand is sitting on the dial rather than sitting slightly above it. When viewed with the naked eye & depending on the dial color & lighting, it 'looks' like the hand was simply pressed onto the pinion too far by an amateur watchmaker. However, you run the risk of applying too much cement or smearing the dial paint. But if you are careful, this process can work well.

Another option is to slip the hand through the hole in the dial & cement a small, flat piece of metal to the bottom of the hand tube & cement the flat piece to the underside of the dial. If done well, it results in a normal looking chrono hand.

Another option is, working from the back of the dial, place & hold the loose hand in the proper position within the hole in the dial & cement the hand's tube (the vertical part that fits onto the pinion of the wheel that drives the hand) in place from the backside.
The best (most realistic-looking) option is also the most difficult. Solder or epoxy a small pinion directly to the plate that sits directly below the chrono hole in the dial. Make it the same height as the other 2 real/working chrono pinions & you can then fit the hand as you would the rest of the working chrono hands. Or, if you are a bit more skillful & have the tools, drill a hole through the plate below the chrono (flush with the bottom of the plate so the pinion does not interfere with any components below the plate) & press fit a pinion into the hole so that it sticks up through the dial at the same height as the rest of the working chrono pinions.

[mountaineer]

@freddy333 & @tomhorn thanks for the advice!

 

The description on epoxying a hand directly to the dial defiantly gives me options.  I looked at movement and there is room to epoxy a pinion to mount subdial hand.

 

According to the linked thread on building w/ V23, there could be a movement height difference (not sure if the issues is just with old DW mystery movement).  The message talked about different rehaut needed for V23 and potential stem height differences.  This could create issues. We have all been here before.  I really don't want to get in deep on parts and not be able to finish the build.

 

I will need to do more research on V23 vs V72 stem & total movement height.

[sputim]

Not an easy build for sure but if you endeavor I highly recommend to go the v726 route. The v726 has the correct beat rate and you will not need to glue any subdial hand onto the dial, which I would never recommend for high end builds. Afaik the v23 is not much cheaper than a v726 with a bit of luck. Best will be to search for a donor watch, as naked v72 usually sell for quite a premium over full watches.

 

Stem you will need one that fits the rolex crown, phong sells them and probably the easiest way to get them. 

 

Good luck!

[automatico]

"According to the linked thread on building w/ V23, there could be a movement height difference..." 

 

From the Ranfft website:

 
Valjoux 23

13''', Dm= 29.5mm, Do= 30.0mm
H= 5.82mm
F= 0.5mm
T= 1.6mm
17 jewels
f = 18000 A/h

1916-1974  

since 1938 with two pushers

 

Valjoux 72

13''', Dm= 29.5mm, Do= 30.0mm
H= 6.95mm
F= 1.62mm
T= 2.72mm
17 jewels
f = 18000 A/h 1938-1974
early samples: Breguet hairspring