Albatross around my wrist...

[automatico]

Today, most of my genuine Rlx watches would be considered 'vintage' but wearing them is no longer much of an option although I used to wear them many years ago. 

Not now.

Q...Why?

A1...Because they simply are too fragile and cost too much to repair compared to sensible options available today.  Besides that, RWC has cut parts off to almost everyone causing parts prices to jump to absurd levels.  NPFY

A2...The watches are selling for way more than they are worth imho so now might be a good time to get rid of them.

Q...What would I consider to be a 'sensible' option?

A...If I want the Vintage Rlx Look, maybe a pretty good replica with a swissETA.

Q...Why a swissETA?

A...Because they are cheap and reliable, especially when compared to a 50 year old Rlx movement.  'Cheap' swissETA = only if you bought them 15+ years ago when a new 2836 was around $65.

 

Q...So...after all the BS above, what are my favorite no date  vintage Rlx type watches?

A...I would have to say 1016, 5512, 5513.

Q...Watches with date?

A...Flat dial 36mm DJ and 1655.  'Pie Pans' are too much hassle imho.

 

What are yours?

 

 

[freddy333]

I understand your hesitancy, but I have never found most properly maintained Rolexes to be fragile. My experience has been quite the contrary.

 

However, the fact that virtually every kid & crook clocks wrists today, searching for Rolexes to envy or steal, makes the wearer a target. But, then, I think that our rulers have permitted the crooked classes so much latitude that being clocked by a crook is just another reason to remain situationally aware -- & (lawfully) armed.

 

I worry more about watches developing problems because they spend too much time sitting idle rather than suffering damage from being worn.

[automatico]

"I understand your hesitancy, but I have never found most properly maintained Rolexes to be fragile."

 

I get where you are coming from but back when I knew the head repair guy at a fairly large AD, he was ordering 15xx and 30xx balance staffs by the dozen every few months (3 for $18 back then) plus quite a few 'balances complete' ($160 at the time, still have a few for 15xx 19.8 chronometers plus one for 3035 and one for lady cal 2135).  The cal 3035 was a problem because the hairsprings came loose from the balance where they were laser welded and they had to be replaced.   If the owner was lucky, the 3035 HS was just tangled up (another common problem)...not counting dates flipping halfway in the window etc.

I've owned 33 cal 3000/3035 watches with 4 tangled HS and 3 balance staffs plus a few other ailments...all gone now.  About the same number of 3130/3135 watches with no problems other than a few needing c/o.  Had a few 3035 powered DJ with serious case corrosion, no 3135 powered DJ models with much corrosion but they were newer.  Saw a few rotten submariners used in salt water and not cared for. 

 

1-16-24...

caliber 3035 a white elephant? - Rolex Forums - Rolex Watch Forum

 

Owned about 50 models with cal 15xx and they had a few problems...MS barrel arbor hole in main plate worn out of round (no jewel or bushing), broken staffs from whams & bams, worn out reversers and rotor weight axles (usually because of too long between c/o), broken rotor axle jewels (W & B)...the winding weight axle and jewels are weak points under rough service imho.

RWC service centers have a device to bore and bush the MS arbor hole, or a mini milling machine can be used.  The bushings are hard to find, usually have to be cut out of a similar bushing on a lathe and milling machine.

Still have three 3130 AKs left, that's it for 'modern' Rlx.

Last Rlx purchased?

Steel ref 1500 timehead  12-14-21  $700 in gro.  Probably the last unless a cheapo shows up.

 

The AD repair guy had been at the bench 30+ years and was one of the best around.  He called the cal 3000/3035 '******* junk' and also hated the 1556 type Prez day of the week works, even I can tell they are flimsy (I have one btw).  The 3135 was the main movement back when I knew him, and they had very few problems.

I asked him what his favorite Rlx watch was.  He said:  "The 1016, just don't drop it."

What did he wear?

Gold case Accutron 214 prototype with different case back from production models, a gift from a Bulova sales rep.

 

 

"I worry more about watches developing problems because they spend too much time sitting idle rather than suffering damage from being worn."

 

Yeah, me too.  I have a safe full of 'em.  

Funny thing is the replicas always take off after a long snooze and the genuine watches don't want to get up and go.   

 

 

 

 

[freddy333]

2 hours ago, automatico said:

I've owned 33 cal 3000/3035 watches with 4 tangled HS and 3 balance staffs plus a few other ailments...all gone now.  About the same number of 3130/3135 watches with no problems other than a few needing c/o.  Had a few 3035 powered DJ with serious case corrosion, no 3135 powered DJ models with much corrosion but they were newer.  Saw a few rotten submariners used in salt water and not cared for. 

Owned about 50 models with cal 15xx and they had a few problems...MS barrel arbor hole in main plate worn out of round (no jewel or bushing), broken staffs from whams & bams, worn out reversers and rotor weight axles (usually because of too long between c/o), broken rotor axle jewels (W & B)...the winding weight axle and jewels are weak points under rough service imho.

That has definitely not been my experience with Rolexes, in particular, & quality mechanical watches (eg, ETA), in general. In the decades I have been collecting, I do not recall having come across any professional/full-time watchsmiths reporting these types of issues being more common with Rolex calibers than other brands.

Usually, it takes a pretty significant impact/shock (or monkey) to tangle a hairspring &, of those I have untangled, all were in watches that were either dropped, worn by owners involved in traffic accidents or mangled by third-world 'watchmakers' (who have been brought to 1st-world countries to do their damage). But I am just a part-timer, so I may be wrong.

[alligoat]

I must admit that my gen Rolexes are all in the safe- seeing very little wrist time these days.

My replicas with eta movements are running strong. I even have a few dg2813s that have stood the test of time.

I did have to have a couple of franken DJs serviced a year or two ago- a 16013 and a 16014, both with 2836-2s, I built them 16 years ago.

I have gotten into Seikos recently- building homage watches with the NH35 and NH36 movements- nice $200 beaters. They may look like a YM but they're not.

 

[JoeyB]

I've found the ETA 2846 to be as reliable as the ETA 2836, but has the slower beat for vintage builds. 

[automatico]

"I've found the ETA 2846 to be as reliable as the ETA 2836, but has the slower beat for vintage builds. "

 

Me too, I have used quite a few of them and some of my older models are 17 jewels instead of 21.  Can't tell any difference between 21J and 17J in day to day use though.  Might need to c/o the autowind assembly more often on the 17J models to keep the reverser bushings from wearing out. 

A 25J autowind assembly from an ETA 2824/36 etc. will fit a 2846.

 

I bought a few bargain priced 25J nos  ETA 2879 (21600 bph) about 10 years ago and they also work fine in projects, but it seems they do not have the same winding efficiency as later 2824/36/46 etc.   After c/o they keep good time and on the few I have, the day of the week spacer is made on the top plate instead of using a flimsy sheet metal spacer.  They are about the same thickness as an ETA 2836.

 

From The Ranfft website:

2846

11.5'', Dm= 25.6mm, Do= 26.0mm

H= 5.2mm

(calendar/dial spacer is made on the movement on mine)

F= 1.65mm

T= 2.25mm

17/21 jewels

f = 21600 A/h

power reserve 48h

 

2879

11.5'', Dm= 25.6mm, Do= 26.0mm

H= 5.35mm

(calendar/dial spacer +0.15mm)

F= 0.6mm

T= 2.3mm

17/21/25 jewels

f = 21600 A/h

power reserve 55h

 

I tried an Eta 2879 in a case made for an Eta 2836 and it fits Ok, everything lines up, stem is in the center of the case tube etc.

My 2879 movements are not hacks but the hack lever can be installed. They also need cleaning and oiling but I figure it's better to spend time c/o a nos movement than an old movement with unknown history.

[JoeyB]

I ground down the bump on the hack lever for my 6204 build with the ETA 2846.  I like my watches to be accurate to the second. So I have to wait and shake it when the seconds line up. What a pain!