Make A Photo Without Optic Zoom

[MAHLER]

Hi, hunters.

I have seen the exhaustive guide of Pugwash , already present on this forum, on as to get some decent photos.

But as holder of a digital car without optic zoom I have to admit that it is impossible to get a neighbor photo with a cheap objective.

That's why I have thought about recommending you this small suggestion.

With this I have succeeded in making a decent photo brought closer without having to change photographic car.

Here is thing serves you to be to the height :

1) your photographic car;

2) your target;

3) a lens of enlargement.

proceed :

- regulate the light to diurnal;

- put you in a well illuminated place (unfortunately for me it is a cloudy day);

- position your target;

- choose the optimal position;

- position the lens next to the objective;

- now look for the correct position that doesn't fall through the target and machine off (you retry until the result it doesn't satisfy you);

Here is example of the result.

Regards.

Mahler

Edited July 7, 2006 by MAHLER

[8o8]

simple and seem to work well

[dariusp]

I have no idea what he just said.

Digital Car?

[sssurfer]

I have no idea what he just said.

Digital Car?

Boys, just use a little imagination!

Are you from UK, by chance?

CAmeRa!

[MAHLER]

Boys, just use a little imagination!

Are you from UK, by chance?

CAmeRa!

You excuse, my English is worse of what can be imagined .

Thanks sssurfer...

[Pugwash]

Ok, this is such an excellent low-budget suggestion I feel I should help. I love anything that lets you get results without much expenditure.

So, to help people who are struggling with Mahler's English, I'd like to give a translation of the basics. Once you get this, the rest of the article needs no translation:

Here's what you need:

1) Your digital camera

2) the subject

3) A Magnifying Glass

Then, put the glass between the lit subject and the camera and move it about until it's in focus and stuff. Amazing idea, it fits right in with my philosophy. It goes along with using sunglasses as polarising filters to reduce reflection on watch crystals and using a mirror if you only have one lamp.

Mahler, I salute you.

[MAHLER]

So, to help people who are struggling with Mahler's English... Mahler, I salute you.

Thanks!!!

[dariusp]

This is such a helpful place.

All warm and fuzzy!

[sssurfer]

You excuse, my English is worse of what can be imagined .

Thanks sssurfer...

You are welcome, Mahler. Just a little comraderie between compatriots.

Btw, great tip!

[Pete]

Here's one I made earlier......................

Cross Aphex

Think I will set the camera to a lower res next time though.........

Pete

[MAHLER]

Great and good work Pete

Edited July 7, 2006 by MAHLER

[Pete]

Grazie Mahler ed il vostro inglese è migliore del mio italiano !

Pete

[MAHLER]

Grazie Mahler ed il vostro inglese è migliore del mio italiano !

Pete

Accidenti , ma il tuo italiano non è niente male Pete !!!!

[Chronus]

Seeing as it fits with Mahler's solution, I use a similar method to photograph (and not always well) close-ups of the dial etc.

I put a loupe (magnifying glass) in between the camera and watch (subject) and take a picture.

I've used that to send details of problems back to dealers and it seems to work ok.

[ubiquitous]

I've used old PAM crystals before (same philosophy)...

[By-Tor]

Your photography is stunning. Now you just need to give them a "finishing touch".

[ubiquitous]

I wish I could get rid of that grainy pixelation in the black/dark tones.

[ubiquitous]

And, thanks for the kind words BT!! The pics come out ok considering the camera that I use (old Canon Powershot A70)...

[Usil]

Excellent.

You might also check out the manual to see if there is a 'close focusing' mode for the camera. My old Olympus has this and it lets you focus at close distances.

Usil

[MAHLER]

Thanks for sharing your implementations.

I have adjourned the technique.

Taking a lens 3.50x from a glasses for reading and put above the lens of the camera (just to cover the original lens)I have succeeded in serving a photo 10 cm distance to the subject.

Here is an example without lens 3.50x (my model is economic Beng DC-30 without optic zoom)

Here is an example with lens 3.50x (my model is economic Beng DC-30 without optic zoom)

Edited July 10, 2006 by MAHLER

[Pugwash]

I wish I could get rid of that grainy pixelation in the black/dark tones.

This would be a perfect question for TTK's Photo Expert question section mission quest thing.

However, here's a hint: lowest ASA/ISO possible. You should be able to get to 80-100 ASA and this will reduce the noise. You'll need more light, therefore slower speed therefore more stability, but it's worth it.

If that doesn't help, use an anti-noise filter in software.

[Pugwash]

Your photography is stunning. Now you just need to give them a "finishing touch".

I'll see your "finishing touch" and raise you a "noise ninja".

[ubiquitous]

I'll see your "finishing touch" and raise you a "noise ninja".

So, what exactly did you do to achieve that result Pugs?

[By-Tor]

Just increase saturation if you want to keep the "reddish" tone of the original picture. I prefer more black and white approach. You can also tweak the tones from "color balance".

[Pugwash]

So, what exactly did you do to achieve that result Pugs?

Noise Ninja is a Photoshop plug-in designed to reduce noise, I presume in a ninja-like fashion. If I had an original of one of your photos, and not a reduced-size photobucket-mangled version, I could show you what's really possible.