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New Panerai 111H Modded


Romp

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Guys just to let you know...

Angus (Pure Time) will be offering a modded PAM 111H and I have volunteered to buy his first ultimate modded 111h and I will take photos and give it a review to let you know how it turns out.

We sat down together and put a list of what would make the "Ultimate" 111H and this is the list of mods that he will be making to mine and will most likely be selling as a standard package:

swiss unitas

dagger swan neck

canon pin fix

thick crown guard

sapphire with AR

waterproof 5atm

superlumed hands and dial

I have seen some photos of the lume and it is very nice and bright!

Anyhow - give it two weeks for putting it together and delivery and I will write a full review to share with you guys!

Cheers,

Rob

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One thing I have noticed with a lot of lume is that it is bright when charged, but 8 hours later you can't read it in a pitch black room. Great lume is super bright right away and readable after 8-12 hours!

Ill make sure I factor this into my review! Hope it turns out well - Ive had other watches from Angus and been great thus far.

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One thing I have noticed with a lot of lume is that it is bright when charged, but 8 hours later you can't read it in a pitch black room. Great lume is super bright right away and readable after 8-12 hours!

Actually, your eyes require about 30 to 45 minutes to get used to the dark. So lets say if in the middle of daylight you went into a closed room with the absolute minimum on light, (coming from the cracks of the door, underneath the door, keyhole, no window) you'd be able to see or navigate just fine after 30 to 45 minutes. So your eyes adjust and become more sensitive.

I think the human eye is an amazing thing, unfortunately I wear specs cause I was silly enough to mess with them by sitting in front of the TV all day long when I was young. (Luckily, I wear very weak glasses.) The lume's awesome, because when I wake up in the middle of the night to go to the toilet. I usually have both my watches on my nighttable and they 'may' not be as bright as when you put them under a strong source of light directly, but damn, I tell you, for my eyes, they are quite bright and I can clearly see the second hands ticking away on the Sub or PAM 183. Let someone walk into my room coming from a lighted area and s/he won't be able to notice the lume on your watch at all, or just barely and this is a couple hours after the initial light bombardment to your watch!

A few hours after having it charged, when I get under the bed covers and put the watch close to the cover, it even reflects off on to the covers, like a freaking flashlight! Torch would be a better word for it in my opinion! ;)

Anyways, just my addition to the comments already made!

Regards,

VW

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Also include making the white fonts yellowish offwhite :)

Then the only noticeable flaw will probably be the L Swiss L too close to the 6.

Actually the biggest flaw of the rep 112/176 dial are dial numbers, more specificaly shape of the cutouts.

Genuine Panerai sandwich dial numerals 12, 3 and 9 are shaped to closely mimic pre-V and pre-A dial numbers shape.

Rep dial manufacturers simply used a modern Vendome painted/sausage dial template to create sandwich dial cutouts, which was abviously wrong :-(

First rep H-series 111/177/112/176 dials came out with this flaw late '05, and have never been fixed since.

It's not hard and not rocket science, one only needs to take a look at perfectly replicated Radiomir (183, 210) sandwich rep dial.

***end of rant***

:)

babola

Edited by babola
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Actually the biggest flaw of the rep 112/176 dial are dial numbers, more specificaly shape of the cutouts.

But that's only for the real hardliners around here :) I've stopped dreaming about the perfect H-series dial a long time ago...

However, making the font offwhite should be an easy fix and a step foreward in accuracy.

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I'd love to see the "thick crown guard"...if we exclude DSN from the equation, he'd be the fist one to offer one, then.

What about crown ?

cheers,

babola

+1 Crown is an important part of the equation for most of us and it wasn't mentioned as being addressed. Each of us are different in preference for what's acceptable as a flaw but the crown is a big one for most.

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Guest watchbuff

Well

What is the target price\?

It has to be competitive. I could not see spending 100-150$ more for a mod that I could to myself on a crown guard for 1/6 that price. (That is if you are screwdriver savvy)

I got my mod 111H from a dealer here and has all that you are listing.

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Wow, this is definitly good news~~ I was very close from ordering an 111H from Angus a few days ago, but decided to do some additional research on what's available on the market and the difference between the 111H from different dealers.

I guess I'll be waiting to see this "new" modded version of the 111H from Angus~~~

Cheers~ :p

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Guys

Angus has posted photos of the watch me made for me as a demonstration of his offering.

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=55737

Tell me what you think and if you have any recommendations on improvements etc let me know and ill pass the feedback up.

I will write a full independent review when I receive it later this week.

cheers,

Rob

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I just asked him whether the pictures are of the Swiss movement or Asian movement. Reason being the dagger swan neck shock system used is the novadiac instead of incabloc. DSN uses the novadiac on all his "swiss" movements so would like to check on this.

Other than that, to nitpick, the pin in the CG doesn't look completely flush and appears a tad rounded. The lever looks a tad too small and the CDG engraving a tad too thick. :D

Edited by Sin22
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I just asked him whether the pictures are of the Swiss movement or Asian movement. Reason being the dagger swan neck shock system used is the novadiac instead of incabloc. DSN uses the novadiac on all his "swiss" movements so would like to check on this.

Other than that, to nitpick, the pin in the CG doesn't look completely flush and appears a tad rounded. The lever looks a tad too small and the CDG engraving a tad too thick. :D

Regarding if this Swiss or Asian, honestly I dont know how to distinguish from Swiss from Asian, you guys know better than I do, but the factory makes this movement (actually they makes the bridges and screws only) has only Swiss movement and Asian movement and they dont have the ETA Clone movement (although the Asian is an ETA-clone but they dont print "ETA" on their clone movement). The movement is from one of our biggest replica factory (makes the ultimate SD and most of our panerai) so I believe they can be trusted --> it is a Swiss movement.

And as I am not familiar with the gen so I will leave other judgements to you.

Edited by PureTime
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Too bad the Luminor Marina and Panerai font are still clear white........

I could have lived with the not 100% 3, 6 and 9 fonts and even the L Swiss Made L too close to the 6, but the clear white font for an H-series dial is the obvious giveaway.

Does anyone offer a PAM that has the correct "off white" font? I have yet to see one which surprises me because the fix is relatively simple...

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Some members asked me how to distinguish from Asian UNITAS from Swiss UNITAS movement, I have a simple method to do this by only look at the Swan Neck, here are 3 pics to illustrate it:

1. This is the famous China Made Swan Neck UNITAS-6497 movement at 17,800 vph with ETA Stamp on the movement. We usually call this the "ETA Clone UNITAS".

RIMG1283.jpg

2. This is the nice China Made Swan Neck UNITAS-6497 movement at 21,600 vph without the ETA Stamp on t he movement, we usually call this the Chinese UNITAS. This one has the same frequency as the genuine UNITAS-6497-2 movement on the gen Panerai watches.

RIMG1284.jpg

3. This is the genuine Swiss Made (decorated bridge made in China) Swan Neck UNITA-6497 movement at 17,800 vph with the ETA Stamp (of course it does) on the movement, we usually call it the Swiss UNITAS movement.

RIMG1285.jpg

I am just a newbie to this, please let me know if I am wrong.

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