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predfan2001

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Well since my other projects are on hold, my "spare parts" watch is on the bench. I'm hoping to get the case finished, crystal set and dial work done this weekend. I like to complete the case and bezel before the movement goes in so I'm trying to choose which look I like better.

It's either going to have the blue insert with a black NATO or black insert with an olive NATO. I'm leaning towards the first since I already have my 5517 on an olive strap. C what ya think:

Spare parts watch "Fantasy Tudor Hydro 5517"

5517 rep case with pointy cgs

Replacement T39 crystal

Gen Tudor Hydronaut dial in "so-so" condition

2836-2 movement

S6300643.jpg

S6300645.jpg

S6300599.jpg

Unfortunately I can't go any further till I get my hands in. My supplier keeps sending me the wrong ones. As I have said before, if I don't get them soon I'll use the 5517 sword hands.

Edited by predfan2001
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Ok, you guys talked me into it, black it is. I just wanted to see what the blue one looked like. I've seen a couple Tudor Subs over the years with blue inserts.

I received my Sub hands today. I was holding off on repainting the marker inserts till they arrived. I wasn't sure if they were sending me aged or white. They came in white so I'll match the white and repaint the markers.

I'm still kind of wondering how you MBW mod'ers attach your dial to the movement (my dial has no dial feet like a MBW Sub). I bought some dial dots and they were no help, to small and thin. What ever I use to adhere the dial needs to be strong enough to hold but still be able to remove the dial without bending it. There just isn't much room on the 2836-2 for bonding. I was thinking of making spacers the correct thickness and adhereing them to the movement where ever possible then bonding the dial to the spacers. Thin styrene plastic spacers cut to fit???

Any suggestions?

I assume the spots I've marked in red are safe?

(not a functioning movement, just for reference)

S6300652.jpg

Edited by predfan2001
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Ok, you guys talked me into it, black it is. I just wanted to see what the blue one looked like. I've seen a couple Tudor Subs over the years with blue inserts.

I received my Sub hands today. I was holding off on repainting the marker inserts till they arrived. I wasn't sure if they were sending me aged or white. They came in white so I'll match the white and repaint the markers.

I'm still kind of wondering how you MBW mod'ers attach your dial to the movement (my dial has no dial feet like a MBW Sub). I bought some dial dots and they were no help, to small and thin. What ever I use to adhere the dial needs to be strong enough to hold but still be able to remove the dial without bending it. There just isn't much room on the 2836-2 for bonding. I was thinking of making spacers the correct thickness and adhereing them to the movement where ever possible then bonding the dial to the spacers. Thin styrene plastic spacers cut to fit???

Any suggestions?

I assume the spots I've marked in red are safe?

(not a functioning movement, just for reference)

S6300652.jpg

That's interesting question Predfan2001.

I got the exactly the some problems now, replacing one Gen Dial on my 16610 MBW with 2836-2Eta

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please don't glue anything on the movement ;)

my watchmaker put new feet's under the gen-dial -

they come with some "holders" - so you can mount them under the dial +

you will have enough space for the date-wheel/overlay.

kind of hard to explain in English ;)

Frank

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I guess the answer all depends on when you ask it. The last time I brought this up the only answers I got were to use double sided tape and dial dots to adhere the dial to the movement. I bought dial dots and they were a total waste. I don't see a spot on the movement you could stick double sided tape onto.???

I did experiment on an old watch and I used a tiny bit of clear epoxy to adhere the date wheel spacer ring to the movement. I mocked it up on an old movement. Then when it dried, it dabed about 4 tiny spots of clear epoxy on the edges of the movement and set the dial on. It worked as far as I know (it was an old dead movement I use for fitment). It was secure and it came back apart ok with a little pry without damaging anything. Epoxy bonds just enough to hold but will not permanently bond on metal. And it is easy to remove.

I really don't see me having any luck with dial feet. They should be soldered on and you can't do that with a finished dial. I don't see anyway to properly install feet onto a finished (painted) dial. There is not enough contact surface for epoxy to hold. :mellow:

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