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Getting close to the real thing


jmt

Which are worth doing?  

37 members have voted

  1. 1. Which mods are worth it for a DSRD?

    • Gen crown
      30
    • CG mod
      32
    • gen insert
      30
    • gen hands @~800
      4
    • gen 1570 @ ~1200?
      5
    • gen bracelet
      12
    • lug holes drilled
      31
    • other
      12


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OK, so I have just ordered at 1665, and am thinking about how close I can get this thing. I think a gen movement with the right DW may make sense. But, obviously, no point (at least to me) to get a gen dial at that price. But, it got me thinking... what does the community think... how far is far enough?

For me, the movement is worth it because of the beat and more importantly the DW. Lug holes, sure. Bracelet, sure. But hands? Dunno? Insert, sure.

Your thoughts?

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I have a GWSD. I have heard all sorts of things about this watch but the one TTK sent me had the correct caseback and a great hollow center link braclet. In terms of mods it all depends on how obsessive you are with absolute perfection and if you are willing to pay for it. For me all I want is a correct insert and pearl, CG trimming and the lug holes drilled with correct spring bars attached. I already had installed a Clark crystal. I think that once you complete these mods this watch is so close to gen only the very best could tell it was a rep. YES I know the dial is a giveaway to an expert but your just not going to find anyone like that in your normal travels. AND even if you do they wont notice the difference with the watch on your wrist from 5 feet away.

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What I'd to to a 1665:

- gen crown

- gen tube

- gen or good aftermarket bezel insert

- gen or clarks tropic

- CG mod

- drill lugholes

- gen springbars

- gen 93150 bracelet or good aftermarket bracelet with gen 580 endlinks and gen 93150 clasp

- slow beat eta or asian

- HE valve fix

- give dial and hands new "lume": The tritium on a 1665 should not glow anymore after that amound of time.

- age everthing a bit - 1665 is an old watch, therefore it should have a slightly used look.

- eventually go for an NDT dial...

MBW 1665 is $400, mods could be done for another ca $700 plus the NDT dial - that means $1500 for the complete watch including the NDT dial... still far less than a genuine.

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Unless you have a money tree dont go crazy buying gen parts. The basic outside pieces make the biggest difference, so stick with them.

In my opinion,

Genuine

crystal, insert, crown

Aftermarket

Case tube, bracelet, Clark hands, a decent date wheel.

Mods

this is where you should spend your time. It makes a huge difference.

Crown guards, drill the lug holes, sink the He valve in the case a bit, remove the paint on the case back and polish the lugs to make them smaller and maybe a vintage relume.

Anything else is going to cost a fortune and you will still not be able to fool that 1-2% of the population that would pick out a stock MBW vs your modded one. All the mods in the world wont make it real and 99% of the population wont know any better, so save yourself some money and take short cuts where you can. Give up on trying to fool a WIS it's not going to happen and in your lifetime you may encounter only a handful of watch nerds in real life. Most people dont know and dont care.

IMO, the main thing is to work the case to make it look vintage. If I were to see someone wearing a NOS 1665 that would be a huge red flag to me.

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This DRSD (with working Hev) is all gen except for the dial (soon to be replaced), crystal (Clarks), pearl (Ofrei), case (modded MBW) & hands (Clarks).

The bracelet, from end link to end link, is all gen. The drive train is all gen.

genparts020bw1.jpg

motorcycleadventure0281.jpg

Freddy, why the gen hands?

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I think some people take it to far. To the point where they might was well buy a gen.

Do you have any idea what a nice gen 1665 is selling for these days? You could do every mod on that list and then some and still wouldn't be anywhere near the price of the gen 1665 :drinks:

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Yes I know. I had one and I sold it. But the whole purpose in buying reps for me is to spend as little money as possible. If you've ever read any of my reviews I have pointed out repeatedly how the little things we obsess about are only visible in a picture that you've blown up 1000 times. But I am totally behind anyone who wants to spend the time to mod something. I mod things for people all the time myself. But in 20+ years I've never been called out on any rep I've worn so for me doing mods would only serve to ease my knowing something is not right. But it doesn't bother me so I don't. Like I said to each his own. :p

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This is the thing I like about modding vintage Rolex (especially the 1665 or 1680 or 5513): the possibilities are almost endless.

First, I would start with obtaining the parts to improve the "look" of the watch. Changing the movement to genuine 1570 will be the last thing to be done (depending on budget and availability). So, this is my opinion:

obtain that genuine T39 crystal. It doesn't have to be a super dome, the flat top looks much nicer on your 1665. Next is to get the case reworked (CG shaving, lugholes working) , at the same time you can do installation of genuine crown + tube too. I can assure you... this mods will improve the look of stock 1665 rep drastically.

When that is done, find a good gen insert, possibly with Tritium pearl (this can get expensive). As for me, I prefer to stick to rep bracelet.

The rest, I leave it to your imagination.

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I'll follow ChefCook here (almost).

- gen crown

- gen tube

- gen bezel insert

- gen tropic (not as expensive as the super dome and wonderfull)

- CG mod

- drill lugholes

- gen springbars

- gen 93150 bracelet (because you can use it on various Subs anyway)

- slow beat eta

- HE valve fix

- give dial and hands new "lume": The tritium on a 1665 should not glow anymore after that amound of time. (Indeed!)

- age everthing a bit - 1665 is an old watch, therefore it should have a slightly used look.

And, buy the way, 20K is what you should spend to get a genuine ;)

Cheers

Stephane

RolexSeaDwellerGreatWhite_PS800_14.jpg

RolexSeaDwellerGreatWhite_800_13.jpg

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the cheap way = zero $$ :

bleach the insert carefully - remove the pearl

overwork the case with sandpaper - shave the CGs - polish it up

scratch the plexi and polish it with polywatch.

the result is a nice vintage look :)

cheers,

Frank

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yep i agree with takashi and stephane and pretty much also with others ...

1 thing to note is build the watch that u will be happy with ... we all have a bit different taste to what needs to be done to make it good for yourself ...

Mine 1665 MBW was build by tribal a year ago but i constantly been upgrading it ...

here is what he done i will start with the ones that are basic and needed imho:

- CGs Shawed

- lugholes drilled to take gen bars

- gen bars

- gen 585 end links

- casebook color engraving striped and vintagized

- gen insert and pearl

- gen crown and tube

- gen tropic 39 flat top

- dial and hands relumed with night rebel lume

- ubi flat 3 DW overlay installed

- general overwork of the case and polishing etc ...

- next on my list change of case back with GW one ATM i have a DRSD case back as my 1665 came with DRSD dial but i decided to instal GW dial there fore the DRSD case back

- HE valve mod

The sick thing is it never ends many members know and been there ;) but then again this is why it makes it so fun ... take ure time also and be patient ... my 1665 is a 1 year project and still ongoing one ...

NOW here is the out of the box state when i received it :

DSC01369.jpg

DSC01388.jpg

DSC01371.jpg

DSC01373.jpg

Here is how it looks after 1 year ...

gw1.jpg

DSC01776-1.jpg

DSC00663-1.jpg

Huuuuuge difference well for me at least ;)

I leave u with a double wristie with his modern contra part ... inspired by stephane ;)

DSC00640-1.jpg

Wish u a nice project whatever u end up with will be fine as long as ure happy with it mark my words!

Laz

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I'll tell you what i always wondered about. not on this model but since we're talking older stuff. When the black print on the back of the seadwellers fade off, what do you guys do to restore that?

you mean this sexy vintage caseback ?

PICT0426-1.jpg

a lot of people want to get rid of the black paint ;) - there is no paint left after 30 years of wear :)

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@ kelster ... i have that style as it came on the DRSD ... the one i purchased now is the circular one ...

@ lancelot ... i have striped mine course ;) actually tribal did and even aged it a bit

Laz

:)

RolexSeaDwellerGreatWhite_800_44.jpg

@stephane- why the pref for the gen tropic?

I love the word "genuine" ;)

Because it's affordable and the distortion is great.

But of course a Clark is perfect too at the end of the day.

I mean, only the owner of the watch actually knows it.

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Gen tropic or just tropic ;) has a certain shine that clark Christal don't achieve u need to have it side by side and have a closer look to see that ... also tropic is just a tad clearer in real life again really hard to see ... still in some eyes don't make difference ...

at stephane ... yes thats the case back i have on the way ... mmmm :)

Laz

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I'll tell you what i always wondered about. not on this model but since we're talking older stuff. When the black print on the back of the seadwellers fade off, what do you guys do to restore that?

Unless the watch has been stored in a safe, after 30+ years it is unlikely that any paint will remain on the caseback. But I have repainted metal bezels with engraved numbers using a procedure similar to the process you use to grout your bathroom tile. This procedure will also work on a caseback or just about any metal with indented painted areas.

  1. Clean the caseback with denatured alcohol to remove all dirt & oil
  2. Spray a good coat of high temperature gloss automotive engine paint to the back
  3. Using a lint-free cloth or VIVA paper towel dampened (not soaking) with paint thinner, gently & slowly slide the flat cloth across the caseback to remove a small amount of paint from the surface. The trick is to remove only the paint on the surface, but not the paint within the grooves of the text.
  4. Using a 2nd dampened cloth, repeat the process of sliding the cloth across the caseback, removing a small amount of paint from the surface.
  5. Using a 3rd dampened cloth, repeat the process.......
  6. Repeat with a new dampened cloth until all of the paint has been removed from the caseback's surface.
  7. Let the caseback dry overnight.

To remove the paint, buy a spray can of paint remover (available at most automotive or hardware stores) & spray the caseback with a good, thick layer of the paint remover. Let sit for 20 minutes (or follow the instructions on the can) & wash off.

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