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Cats

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I'm wearing my 1665 DRSD today with a ETA 2836-2 movement in it.

When i want to wind the movement it slips and sometimes it clicks ( almost the same click as the date change )

I've worn the watch all day also during my fysiotherapy with a lot of arm movements.

Could it be the case that the spring is fully winded and the slipping is a security feature protecting the watch for over winding it ??

Maybe i win the price for the dummest question ever but at least i know the answer then.

Carpe Diem

Cats

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I'm wearing my 1665 DRSD today with a ETA 2836-2 movement in it.

When i want to wind the movement it slips and sometimes it clicks ( almost the same click as the date change )

I've worn the watch all day also during my fysiotherapy with a lot of arm movements.

Could it be the case that the spring is fully winded and the slipping is a security feature protecting the watch for over winding it ??

Maybe i win the price for the dummest question ever but at least i know the answer then.

Actually, that is a very good question.

It could be that the stem is too short, so the crown is unable to fully expand to its locked position. Or the spring inside the crown (that forces the crown to 'pop out' when it is unscrewed from the tube) is worn/gummed-up or the smaller, inner part of the crown's tube (the part that the stem screws into) is binding within the larger, outer part of the crown's tube. In either case, the crown is not popping out far enough to engage the hexagonal 'head' inside the crown that keeps the crown from spinning on its inner tube (Rolex crowns have a 2-part inner tube assembly that screws into the crown itself & it eventually either loses its spring tension or the crown just stops expanding into its locked position on the stem)

tubelesscrown021.jpg

I have fixed a couple of crowns with this problem by running them through a couple cycles of a warm, ammonia/water ultrasonic bath. In 1 case, I was able to unscrew the inner tube assembly from 2 crowns & swap the working 1 for the non-working 1 (note that most of the time, the inner assembly breaks or the threads strip when you try to unscrew the assembly from the crown). If you cannot do that, you need to replace the crown.

It could also be that the keyless works or mainspring are binding (misaligned, out of oil, gummed-up, etc.), which creates too much stress on the crown's inner locking assembly, so it intermittently spins free as you try to wind the crown.

Ziggy might have more to offer.

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Why are you winding an automatic watch? If you never leave it sit for more than a day or two at a time there is no need to manually wind it. Over winding (manually) will damage the keyless works! Just my two cents. I am pretty sure The Zigmeister and most others will confirm this.

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Thank you guys.

I let it run down and then see what happens. To be more specific i still can set the date and time.

Could be the case that the crown is worn out but i think i've worn this watch for only 20 times and there was a brand new gen crown and tube installed.

But OK let's wait and hope that everything is OK after the 40 hours power reserve time.

Carpe Diem

Cats

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Um, I highly doubt the keyless work will suffer from handwinding... the only thing that doesn't like hand winding that much is theclick wheels and the extreme high gear ratio. Anyhow, probperly oiled and with abit of care during winding - you won't damage those either on a Swiss movement.

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You have been here long enough to know you will eventually damage the click wheels by handwinding the watch. So that would be my first suggestion, don't hand wind except to get it started after it's fully unwound and then very slow and only a couple of turns.

On an automatic watch, the mainspring is not attached to the sides of the mainspring barrel - it is free to spin around. There are 2 types of mainspring barrels, those with smooth sides, and those with notches in the side. When you reach full wind, the tip of the mainspring that is sitting on the sides of the barrel will start to slip, if you have a smooth sided barrel, you will feel more resistance in the crown, if you have a notched barrel (like you do) you feel and hear "click, click, click" as the tip of the mainspring snaps into each notch.

Perfectly normal and no damage can be done.

This is how you tell if you have a full wind, and how you can test the power reserve of the watch, if you let it sit and see how long it runs from a full wind.

Now stop handwinding your auto before you break it :)

RG

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The Zigmeister thanks for reply.

I should have known better but the thought that i damaged my DRSD made me impulsive.

Just checked it and it's all OK and can be handwound again.

Most have been the 2 hours of pratice which winded the movement fully.

Everybody thanks for there help.

Carpe Diem

Cats

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I thought the complaint was that the crown slipped (not just made a clicking sound) when he tried to wind the watch manually. If the tension on the crown, as you wind it manually, remains the same but you just hear an intermittent clicking, then forget what I said previously about the crown or keyless works being the problem. Sorry, I misunderstood the original problem.

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I thought the complaint was that the crown slipped (not just made a clicking sound) when he tried to wind the watch manually. If the tension on the crown, as you wind it manually, remains the same but you just hear an intermittent clicking, then forget what I said previously about the crown or keyless works being the problem. Sorry, I misunderstood the original problem.

Or maybe I misunderstood...

I read it as if he was reaching full wind, I never considered the crown or keyless works, my fist thought was click from mainspring bridle.

RG

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