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Davidsen's New 5218-201/a


ubiquitous

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I'm gonna have to order the dial from him. i have the older version 201a, but the bolder font is killer.

Do I have to have Ziggy like skills to exchange the dial. Any pointers would be great.

Eddy

Nah... Dial swap is pretty easy to do. I can walk you through it, if you're wanting to give it a try. Since it's a base, you only have to deal with 2 hands, and since they're pretty large, they're easy to work with. When the time comes, just shoot me a PM.

Is your old case also from David?

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It's technically not a sandwich dial as there is only a single plane on the dial, and the numerals/indicies are not cut all the way through. Rather, the indicies are slightly recessed and then filled with tritium and then coated with varnish on top (for the genuine that is).

David's may be similar, though the pictures may not accurately reflect it.

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Nah... Dial swap is pretty easy to do. I can walk you through it, if you're wanting to give it a try. Since it's a base, you only have to deal with 2 hands, and since they're pretty large, they're easy to work with. When the time comes, just shoot me a PM.

Is your old case also from David?

Thanx Randy for the offer.

Yeah its from Davidsen. Some pics. I'm also getting his new CG. Coming in the package with my fantasy 218a. Got the 218a in SS case. I think 2 PVD's are enough for me.

86338-29365.jpg

86338-29366.jpg

86338-29367.jpg

86338-29368.jpg

Eddy

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[censored] me - also got the old version few weeks ago -

and i adore it ! :)

can someone post an tutuorial how to put the new dial, cgs and palp-crown ? :D

Edited by kelster
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Thanx Randy for the offer.

Yeah its from Davidsen. Some pics. I'm also getting his new CG. Coming in the package with my fantasy 218a. Got the 218a in SS case. I think 2 PVD's are enough for me.

Eddy

Beautiful! Looks like the indices are recessed? Hard to tell from Davidesn's pics..

Edited by drop
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Okay guys, I'll put together a crash course in dial swapping. I will try to do it with some old pics that I have; unfortunately, I have no need to take one of my current PAMs apart, so I'd rather not tear into one if I don't have to.

I'll try to get this posted tonight...

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Okay guys, I'll put together a crash course in dial swapping. I will try to do it with some old pics that I have; unfortunately, I have no need to take one of my current PAMs apart, so I'd rather not tear into one if I don't have to.

I'll try to get this posted tonight...

You da man brutha. I and many others appreciate this.

Eddy

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What say ye PAM WIS's about the new guard? Accurate for a Pre-A, would it also be an improvement over existing rep H series guards on my 111H?

The brushing looks a little rough to me, intentionally to match pre A brushing, maybe--but that's an easy fix...

Davidsen is on a major roll! I knew someone would come along who gets that there is a demand for and profit in small runs of high quality aftermarket parts and interesting watches. Great work!

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What say ye PAM WIS's about the new guard? Accurate for a Pre-A, would it also be an improvement over existing rep H series guards on my 111H?

The brushing looks a little rough to me, intentionally to match pre A brushing, maybe--but that's an easy fix...

Davidsen is on a major roll! I knew someone would come along who gets that there is a demand for and profit in small runs of high quality aftermarket parts and interesting watches. Great work!

From my understanding through many conversations with David, the CG's for his cases do not fit the cases of other reps without some modification. The holes don't line up. But I don't remember if I had this conversation with him regarding hte first runs or the second runs, but I would definitely ask him before getting them.

Eddy

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What say ye PAM WIS's about the new guard? Accurate for a Pre-A, would it also be an improvement over existing rep H series guards on my 111H?

The brushing looks a little rough to me, intentionally to match pre A brushing, maybe--but that's an easy fix...

Davidsen is on a major roll! I knew someone would come along who gets that there is a demand for and profit in small runs of high quality aftermarket parts and interesting watches. Great work!

hi,

Thanks for your kind comments.

Since there is a demad to have a better look at the dial.here they are.

I am not sure if it is the the recessed index you are talking about.But i simply copied this dial

from pics that i got from net.

86471-29323.jpg

86471-29324.jpg

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From my understanding through many conversations with David, the CG's for his cases do not fit the cases of other reps without some modification. The holes don't line up. But I don't remember if I had this conversation with him regarding hte first runs or the second runs, but I would definitely ask him before getting them.

Eddy

Are these CGs "new & improved" cuz the cutout is square & not rounded.....anything else?

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Okay... Not wanting to re-invent the wheel, here is a good write up and overview on uncasing a 6497 from a Panerai case by Ziggy:

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=1416

So, to start this project, simply follow Ziggy's excellent step by step tutorial to remove the movement and dial assembly :) NOTE: Rob states to release the stem in the winding position; I personally release mine in the time setting position (and have done so with no problems thus far), but who am I to argue with the Robster? The man knows his movements!

Anyhow...

Once the assembly is removed from the case, secure the movement in a movement holder, and start by removing the hands.

86492-29319.jpg

You can use a specific tool made just for hand removal; I myself use two very small 1.0mm screwdrivers with a bit of tape wrapped around the tip to prevent scratching. Gently slide the blade under the hands and very, very gently work the hands off the pinions. Since this movement is hour and minute only, there's no need to preset the time to 12:00 or anything for a baseline on the date changeover; it simply aint there :lol:

86492-29320.jpg

Next, remove the dial. There are two very small lock screws right next to where the movement clamps secure to the movement.

86492-29321.jpg

If you look very closely, one edge of the screw head is flat; what you'll want to do is line the flat edge up with the dial feet. Once both screw heads are aligned as such, the dial is ready to come off, and should lift free. Once the dial is off, simply replace it with the new dial and lock the dial feet back in with the lock screws. Flip the movement back over and it's time to set the hands back on. Personally, I like to go the low buck route with hand pressing tools- I use an empty BIC pen tube, which has done the job well and without any scratches. You can opt for a specialized tool; whichever method you feel the most comfortable with is what I recommend :) For best results and ideal alignment, set the hands at 12:00. This provides a good basis for proper hand alignment around the dial and also allows you the chance to look at the hands from the side to make sure that the hands are not coming into contact with each other, or the dial. Once confirmed that all is clearing properly, the watch is ready to be re-cased. Rob has provided the procedure for this as well in the link above. Once the watch is re-cased, and the stem is reinstalled, I recommend pulling the crown out to the time setting position, and giving the hands a full revolution around the dial to make sure that there are no issues with the hands contacting each other.

And, there you have it. Sorry the pictures are all poor quality (and relatively old). Perhaps, if time allows this weekend, I will take one of my watches apart for some updated pics of the procedure.

Hope this helps!!

Best,

Randy

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