RobbieG Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 So I'm getting married soon and I'm kind of looking for a real dress watch to wear formally. I started thinking about what a dress watch really is and realized I definitely don't have one. Like a DJ or DD isn't really a dress watch because it is so well worn as a crossover now as an example. Obviously most of us focus on sports watches here and I thought it would be cool to ponder something else for a bit. There are many, many watches that sort of function as both. For me I kind of also think that a bracelet retracts from the dressieness of any watch believe it or not. So I tend to feel that strapped watches are more dressy than bracelets. But you may not see it that way. Hence the thread... So I was trying to ask what watch would I only really wear with a suit? And that is my question to you all. What are some of your favorite dress watches that you would only really wear formally. Not a tux per se but what you would reach for in a perfect world if you were full on dressed to the nines - Armani - tie - pocket square - shoes - you know the deal. I also would like to hear your thougts on what distinguishes a pure dress watch in your mind. So far I have only found two but my interest in one is waning. I started getting into the Lange 1's a while ago but I realized I just sort of like to look at most of them and I'm not sure if I really love them to wear per se. For that price, I damn well better! But still, it ceratinly qualifies and I'm sure many of you might mention others from Lange. My latest interest has been in Vacheron's Patrimony series. Particularly the latest small seconds model. Just elegant and simple and definitely not sporty in the least and I certainly wouldn't wear it with anything but a suit. Not the best pic though. It is stunning in person... As an example of a "crossover" watch, here is a Droz I had for a short time. Cool for sure but I never wore it so off it went. At 43MM it is a little big for a pure dress watch to me, which brings up the issue of size. How big is too big for this category? Also, I think this is a good crossover example being that the design is very cutting edge, but I guess I feel something more traditional might dress up better. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toadtorrent Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 I think any of the tourbillon watches are the ultimate in dress watch. A tourby to me is an interesting watch particularly in BOTH rep and gen varieties. Though there is a huge difference between a rep and gen Breguet tourby for example, the rep still is an outstanding mechanical marvel that one cannot just be in awe of gazing at. I've been in absolute awe of the full skeleton rose gold VC tourbys ever since I tried one on...beautiful...absolutely beautiful and something that would dress up any occasion...at about 10x the price tag of the above listed pieces mind you...but what an heirloom for you to pass on to your non-existent children (or me in a pinch). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b16a2 Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Since trying one of these on, I think the Omega Deville Prestige is one of the most beautiful dress watches out there. Ok the Brand isn't as highly regarded as A&L, GO VC or the like, but for the price it is a beautifully crafted watch with a great movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbieG Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Agreed. But of course realistically I'm never going to buy a world class tourby so I trying to evaluate some of the more basic varieties. You are right though, the VC openworked tourby is stone amazing. Nuclear. On fire. Smoke city... I think any of the tourbillon watches are the ultimate in dress watch. A tourby to me is an interesting watch particularly in BOTH rep and gen varieties. Though there is a huge difference between a rep and gen Breguet tourby for example, the rep still is an outstanding mechanical marvel that one cannot just be in awe of gazing at. I've been in absolute awe of the full skeleton rose gold VC tourbys ever since I tried one on...beautiful...absolutely beautiful and something that would dress up any occasion...at about 10x the price tag of the above listed pieces mind you...but what an heirloom for you to pass on to your non-existent children (or me in a pinch). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbieG Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Nice - and along the same lines of what is interesting me lately in this category. Very, very simple and elegant. How much are those? Retail? Street? Is it steel though? The only thing is I'm kind of picky about that. A strapped dress watch kind of needs to be gold or PT for me. In steel a small watch can feel really flimsy and cheap in the hand and on the wrist. Sports watches are the opposite. They are so substantial that you don't really want them in a heavy metal - steel is plenty heavy enough for those... Since trying one of these on, I think the Omega Deville Prestige is one of the most beautiful dress watches out there. Ok the Brand isn't as highly regarded as A&L, GO VC or the like, but for the price it is a beautifully crafted watch with a great movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeeJay Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 I'd say for a dress watch, minimalism is key. This is being worn solely as a time-piece, but usually only for limited periods of a few hours. Something like the SkyMoon Tourbillon, for example. Yes, encredibly lavish watch, but with complications which are utterly pointless in a watch worn for a few hours. Like Robbie, I am also getting married soon, so this is a subject which I have been giving consideration to as well. I had planned to get matching watches for my best men, but finances might prevent that. I had been considering wearing my 113, but, at the moment, I don't even want to wear my PAMs, I'm well and truly in the Omega Zone at the moment, so I figure best to go with that. As some of you may recall, last year I bought an Electric Blue SMP as a case for a project watch. The project got shelved, but, it's getting re-activated. I don't want to go into too much detail, as that could be subject to change, but, ultimately, I am going to be building some kind of hybrid SMP heavily influenced by Robbie's UN MMD (colors and form, rather than specific details) I would say that a dress watch should be on a leather strap rather than a bracelet, and small and discrete. I'm going to be breaking those rules, simply because I want to be wearing something that is 'me', rather than simply wearing a 'prop'. Also, if anyone ever then comments on wedding photos and asks what watch I'm wearing, rather than having to say that it's a rep *insert brand here*, I can instead say honestly that it was a watch I built myself for the occasion This should be an interesting topic, I'll be looking forward to other's contributions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limestone Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 First of I want to say, congrats to the wedding. Second,I have always been a sucker for the "rectangular" model to a nice suit. I personaly like Longines DolceVita collection. Almost every watch is circular, but when you wear a very strict taylored suite I think it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbieG Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Good point. I'll certainly have to take that under consideration. Although I have never really been taken by the tonneau shape before. I'll give them another look... Almost every watch is circular, but when you wear a very strict taylored suite I think it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobs1971 Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 For me the definition of a dress watch is easy: keep it simple and modest. So definitely no SS bracelets or chunky chronos. Seconds, date and perhaps a GMT or PR should be the only complications. I would set my mind on Lange, VC (Patrimony/Malte series), GO (Pano series), JLC (Master Control series), PP (Calatrava series) or the more afordable Longines (Master series) and B&M (Classima Executives series). My personal choice would be the JLC Master Hometime, GO Panomatic Reserve or the PP Calatrava. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_brian_ Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b16a2 Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Nice - and along the same lines of what is interesting me lately in this category. Very, very simple and elegant. How much are those? Retail? Street? Is it steel though? The only thing is I'm kind of picky about that. A strapped dress watch kind of needs to be gold or PT for me. In steel a small watch can feel really flimsy and cheap in the hand and on the wrist. Sports watches are the opposite. They are so substantial that you don't really want them in a heavy metal - steel is plenty heavy enough for those... They can be had from AuthenticWatches for US$2175 (Steel). There is also a Rose Gold version for US$4795. Pictures of it really don't do this watch justice, it is very very nice in the flesh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siesta181 Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 IWC FA Jones JLC's Reverso Grande Date in Rose Gold But that's just me..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 The rule for formal occasions is small, simple & understated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbieG Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Yeah, the enamel dialed homage would fit the bill - although a little large for my taste in a dress watch at 42MM. I just sold it actually. Amazing, but I never wore it so given the new credo off to the gallows it went... Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobbieG Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Patek designs never did much for me, but the Patrimony's are all really nice. I do prefer the small seconds date version though - but any would do. I have really come to love that whole series - and all the Malte's too. Even more than Lange. And I think VC is more in the running with them for fit and finish (including movement finishing) than the Lange snobs would have us believe... The rule for formal occasions is small, simple & understated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemaniac Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 So I'm getting married soon and I'm kind of looking for a real dress watch to wear formally. I started thinking about what a dress watch really is and realized I definitely don't have one. Like a DJ or DD isn't really a dress watch because it is so well worn as a crossover now as an example. Obviously most of us focus on sports watches here and I thought it would be cool to ponder something else for a bit. There are many, many watches that sort of function as both. For me I kind of also think that a bracelet retracts from the dressieness of any watch believe it or not. So I tend to feel that strapped watches are more dressy than bracelets. But you may not see it that way. Hence the thread... So I was trying to ask what watch would I only really wear with a suit? And that is my question to you all. What are some of your favorite dress watches that you would only really wear formally. Not a tux per se but what you would reach for in a perfect world if you were full on dressed to the nines - Armani - tie - pocket square - shoes - you know the deal. I also would like to hear your thougts on what distinguishes a pure dress watch in your mind. So far I have only found two but my interest in one is waning. I started getting into the Lange 1's a while ago but I realized I just sort of like to look at most of them and I'm not sure if I really love them to wear per se. For that price, I damn well better! But still, it ceratinly qualifies and I'm sure many of you might mention others from Lange. My latest interest has been in Vacheron's Patrimony series. Particularly the latest small seconds model. Just elegant and simple and definitely not sporty in the least and I certainly wouldn't wear it with anything but a suit. Not the best pic though. It is stunning in person... As an example of a "crossover" watch, here is a Droz I had for a short time. Cool for sure but I never wore it so off it went. At 43MM it is a little big for a pure dress watch to me, which brings up the issue of size. How big is too big for this category? Also, I think this is a good crossover example being that the design is very cutting edge, but I guess I feel something more traditional might dress up better. Thoughts? I think that the Cartier Roadster is one of the best looking watches to wear with a suit. I am not a big Cartier fan but whne it comes to a suit the Roadster or Santos are excellent choices. Just my opinion of course..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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