jmb Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 Bright, I apply a super-thin film to the back of the overlay with a finger then press down the overlay with pretty good pressure and so far have had no clearance issues. I was going to use epoxy but didn't know if I liked it's "permanence"! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightight Posted January 7, 2010 Report Share Posted January 7, 2010 Thanks guys. I know what you are saying about how the overlay ends up over the cover, but I have found that an angled small screw driver can loosen the cover so you can get the wheel off without hosing the datewheel on a 2836 movement. I will try to find this stuff. I know that as long as it is thin when it dries, that is key so it isn't rubbing the back of the dial and such. P.S. I still want a plug and play datewheel with overlay. That is what I thought this thread was about. It appears to be a metal blank for the making of the overlay for the printing. Re-read it again and now it sunk into my thick noggin. Can't you get these overlays from bklm on RG for $30 already? Thanks again! Techlogik, it's not getting the Datewheel off that's the problem, as you say you can remove the cover. It's getting it back on that is very tricky, because of the detent spring (at about 10oclock on the movement) which fits in between the teeth on the datewheel to give positive register. The datewheel also fits over two (for want of a better word) brackets, the teeth fit through, then the datewheel is slid round under the brackets so the detent spring is holding the datewheel in position and the teeth no longer line up with the slots in the brackets I'm sure it must be possible but despite attempts, I have yet to succeed and actually get it working! These are the bits I am talking about - The metal blank is the thin base for the overlay, not a replacement for the datewheel, it still has to be stuck to the datewheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brightight Posted January 7, 2010 Report Share Posted January 7, 2010 Bright, I apply a super-thin film to the back of the overlay with a finger then press down the overlay with pretty good pressure and so far have had no clearance issues. I was going to use epoxy but didn't know if I liked it's "permanence"! Yes the 'permanence' was my worry, but I think (may be wrong, but I picked up the idea from somewhere on the forums) it's how Stilty does it, and I have since found, thanks to making a mistake with alignment, that the overlay will come off with a razor blade pushed in between overlay and datewheel. But there again, if you have something that works for you, stick with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest techlogik Posted January 7, 2010 Report Share Posted January 7, 2010 Brighttight, I just reverse the operation I described. The datewheel indent spring doesn't come into play. I put the datewwheel on so the indent spring is set left side first, hold the right side down with my finger (actually just hold the entire wheel down with 2 fingers), then put the cover on, use small screw driver at an angle to tighten it. Worked for me, have done that 10x probably. I know what you mean though, trying to get the spring tension on the 10 spot held in is impossible the way the raised wider wheel sits over top of it. You can't get anything under it without possibly hosing the wheel or something else to get the spring to release the wheel. That is why I just remove the cover on the right side and screw as described, reverse the operation to put it back. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjmj Posted January 8, 2010 Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 Hi I am in for 2 vintage flat top 3s overlays in silver if possible, if this project is still going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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