Ajoe's Video tutorial - Installing a new movement in a Seadweller

ajoesmith · December 26, 2008

I have not been on this forum in a long time but i like to share info with all other watch enthusiasts so im posting this here for all to see.

This is a complete tutorial of how to install a DG4813 fast beat 28,800bph movement into a basic Asian 21J slow beat 21,600bph noob rolex Seadweller and thought it would be a good idea to do a video instead of pics. I know member 'Toadtorrent' has done a Redux of my pictorial but i have changed the way i do a few things as i have done this many times and have encountered a few problems by using my older method. This method is much easier and i have had zero problems/issues doing it this way. The video file has been converted to .flv so that its smaller file size and easy to upload. Due to this the pic quality is not great but ok.

I also apologize for the quality of the video as it was done using my Point and shot Casio digital camera using the movie mode. I did my best with what i had!

PLEASE NOTE: This is just my method and not necessarily the best method. I have no formal skills in watch making etc, its just my hobby and i have learned a lot along the way and am still learning!

Enjoy

Video Tutorial No.1 - How to remove a case back

Video Tutorial no.2 - How to remove the movement from a case

Video Tutorial no.3 - How to remove the Dial and Hands from a movement

Video Tutorial no.4 - How to change the datewheel from a slowbeat to fast beat DG4813. In three parts 1, 2 and 3

Part 1:

Part 2:

Part 3:

Video Tutorial no.5 - How to install hands. In three parts 1, 2 and 3

Part 1:

Part 2:

Part 3:

Video Tutorial no.6 - Reinstalling the movement back into case

Video Tutorial no.7 - How to cut the stem to size and install crown

Video Tutorial no.8 - Stem reinsertion and movement holder tabs

PhilipM · December 26, 2008

Video Tutorial No.1 - How to remove a case back

Video Tutorial no.2 - How to remove the movement from a case

Video Tutorial no.3 - How to remove the Dial and Hands from a movement

Video Tutorial no.4 - How to change the datewheel from a slowbeat to fast beat DG4813. In three parts 1, 2 and 3

Part 1:

Part 2:

Part 3:

Video Tutorial no.5 - How to install hands. In three parts 1, 2 and 3

Part 1:

Part 2:

Part 3:

Video Tutorial no.6 - Reinstalling the movement back into case

Video Tutorial no.7 - How to cut the stem to size and install crown

Video Tutorial no.8 - Stem reinsertion and movement holder tabs

now on YouTube.

Ajoe - if you get them up yourself, let me know and i'll remove the others.

trailboss · December 26, 2008

Well done phillM!

And well done to Ajoe of cause. Great stuff mate. Very usefull. This is gunna be a great help shortly. A hell of a lot of work but this will be appreciated for years to come. Post of the month for shure and possibly POTY.

Col.

alligoat · December 26, 2008

Great job guys! Very informative and I agree w/ trailboss, this will make a great tutorial, and POTY.

ajoesmith · December 26, 2008

Thanks guys

@Admin

I cannot EDIT my OWN thread!

Can admin please edit the thread for me so that the videos show up in the original first post.

Also is admin aware that we cannot embed other videos, only youtube?

DuDro · December 26, 2008

Thanks Joe for the great post!

And always...thanks for maintaining my favorite avatar!

gplracer · December 26, 2008

Thanks for posting this. I just read a similar thread you did where you replaced the movement but no video. I like the drink wine in between moments. This is a valuable tool to have on the forum. How about posting some information about the tools you have. Many of us do not have any of the needed tools. It would be nice to know what to get and where to get them.

Thanks guys

@Admin

I cannot EDIT my OWN thread!

Can admin please edit the thread for me so that the videos show up in the original first post.

Also is admin aware that we cannot embed other videos, only youtube?

trailboss · December 27, 2008

gplracer: as far as tools go Google will provide an almost unlimited supply of merchants. Otto Frei has a great range of top shelf stuff and a lot of bargain but good tools as well. At a guess a basic set would run something like this (those of you who know better please jump in):

Tools.

A set of 9 or 12 jeweller’s screwdrivers with replaceable blades: neither the cheapest nor the best. In between will do nicely.

Something to remove screw on case backs: Either a sticky ball or a three gang case back remover. Stay away from the two pronged ones. If you have Rolex either the ball or a set of Rolex case back tools will be necessary. Josh carries a set of these at a reasonable price tho I have seen similar cheaper.

A set of strap/bracelet tools: The stuff you need to remove straps and bracelets including a spring bar tool and a pin punch. A bracelet holder is worth it's weight in gold as well and costs a few dollars. If you but a set of bracelet tools it will include one.

A couple of really good pairs of tweezers: Don't skimp too much on these. You need to pick up really tiny bits and pieces here so they must be up to the job. A straight and an angled pair should do for starters.

Fine pliers: If you don't want to shell out on a set of jewellers pliers Sidchrome make a range of good miniature pliers at quite a reasonable price point. Anywhere good automotive tools are sold I should think. You are going to be using these mainly for bending/folding/snapping tuff like MVT clamps or stems so it's important that a reasonable amount of torque can be applied to the jaws.

Hand removal tool: You must have this to successfully remove hands. Nothing else really works. A dial protector may be useful as well but a sheet of paper will do at a pinch.

Hand replacement tool: A chunk of thin SS flat with a hole in one end. Make one if you want.

Rodico: Jewellers blutac, invaluable for everything from reinstalling hands (better than tweezers IMO) to cleaning dials or even just keeping parts in place on the bench.

A jeweller’s loupe or two: You need some help seeing to do some of the finer work in changing a MVT. A 5x and a 10x should cover basic requirements. Cheap and cheerful will do for now. A loupe holder may be a good thing as well.

Case and MVT holders: Oke, ajoe proves you really don't need holders but believe me having the case or MVT securely held in a small vice makes things a lot easier. You will need a case holder and a MVT holder of the correct size. 10 to 12.5 lingue covers most of our MVTs. You will need one of those small hobby vices to hold them in. A vacuum attached one will do the job.

A hand press: A pen shaped device with nylon/urethane tips on the ends. Used for pressing small parts such as second hands into place. A piece of smalldiameter (5mm) hardwood or nylon dowel with a .8mm hole in the end makes a suitable substitute.

Pin punches: Three or four pin punches in at least 0.7 to 1.0mm if they didn't come with your band set. You will need the small one to release the stem.

Dust blower: Necessory for removing dust from inside cases and off dials and MVTs. A very soft brush is also handy.

With the exception of the Rolex case openers (use a sticky ball instead) you should pick up that lot for under 150USD and covers all you could need to open a watch and change the MVT or dial/hands plus change bands.

Consumables.

A basic set of consumables is next on the list if you are going to do a bit of work.

Spring bars: an assortment is 20-25 bucks and will last you for ever. You will need two sets. An end link/case set and a set of the short bracelet ones.

Case seals: as above. A case back set with both flat and round seals and a crown seal set.

Screw assortment: save the heartache of loosening that screw by having an assortment of common watchmaking sizes available.

Various other parts sets are available as you progress further into your hobby. Individual sizes of all sets are available in packs of ten or so for refilling kits or just buying the sizes you know you will need.

Lume: It's not particularly expensive neither are generic hands so buy some of both and practice.

UV glass glue: Want to be sure that crystal is water tight? UV glass glue is used in gens to bond the glass to the case. Once it's in there tho it may well not be coming out in one piece. The Seiko one is good.

Oils and greases: Resist the temptation to buy oil, oilers, oil pots etc until you have started to pull down MVTs to the stage necessary to oil them. When you do, buy separate oil pots rather than multi ones to prevent cross contamination and excess dust caused by having all oils exposed at once. Oilers are one time you can afford the best so buy Bergen. Don't skimp on oil quality either. Remember even the smallest amount will last you a hell of a long time so buy "the good oil". Anything Otto sells should be fine. As for oil pots, they’re a lump of plastic with a small depression in it and a lid so buy cheapies.

Movements: Apart from the A7750 the MVTs in our reps (the CN ones anyway) are under fifty bucks and a lot under 25 if you do you research so Keeping a couple on the shelf is not out of the question. Even the A7750 should be under 150.

Links, link pins and band parts: Keep 'em sorted and labelled. A good collection of these makes life a lot easier down the track and you may just be able to make someone’s day by supplying the link they need to wear their new pride and joy.

Other stuff.

A work bench: you need a good work area wether it be the kitchen table of something more permeant. You should have a chair that sits you at a hight that suits you and makes the job comfortable.

Light: Good lighting is very important. You need to be able to see what you are doing at all times. If you have a dedicated bench a single batten fluoro on the wall three feet or so above bench height is a good start. A LED clip on cap light is a cheap extra at 5 or 6 bucks. A big illuminated goose neck magnifier is nice if the budget stretches that far.

Storage: Most of the kits come with their own multi compartment storage boxes and you need to buy some more for stuff like you’re now growing collection of band parts, clasps etc. The little glass lidded alloy tins favoured by the beading fraternity are perfect as well. Don't forget a home for all those new tools. Alloy attach

Edited December 28, 2008 by offshore

offshore · December 27, 2008

@ Col,

The TZ course is available here-

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=60496&hl=

Offshore

trailboss · December 27, 2008

Well, there you go. My bad. Due to edit rule I can't fix that so if somone who can please would that would be nice.

Col.

PS: Yeah, Yeah, I'll pony up the funds sometime

clkcadet · December 28, 2008

Wow awesome work thanks

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Ajoe's Video tutorial - Installing a new movement in a Seadweller

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