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Next RWG Project: Hand Sets for Angelus 240 & Cortebert 616


t

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Hi guys!

Many people ask me for a CG project but i must pass this... most of you guys know my opinions (to much risk for me). But i will tell you something is going on... but all TOP SECRET.

But i have one new RWG project in work

Many members own Angelus 240 or Cortebert 616 movements and looking for good hands set. I can

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great project indeed!

I would be in for at least one set for the Angie and one for the Cortie...if the price allows it, I'd be in for even more...

as for the Angelus hands...there are the "curved" ones as in your pic and the "flat" ones - that are very similar...

I could maybe take some measures of the hands once I come back home (this weekend...) but I cannot make promises...

I bet VDB will have a lot to tell us on this topic!

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i vote for the curved hands... the flat hands are to similar to the new fiddy models.

what you guys think?

I have this genuine angelus hands like on pictures.... so we would have a sample!

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YES!! Finally!!

Curved handset for the Angelus.... also longer subsecond pin.... matching subsecond hand will be good too.... I will take 4 sets definitely...

Cortebert hands... I will take 3 sets....

Great effort my friend... GREAT GREAT EFFORT HERE!!

Thank you!!

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The Angelus curved design would be useful to a lot of members here - the longer flat hands could work out cheaper to make (and the hands would be transferrable to a certain contemporary model or two!). I can buy a hand sizer from Cousins UK and get the tube / length dimensions if you need them - although if you've still got some original hands kicking around, it's probably as good to take them straight to the manufacturer. I've also got some of the original long hands if you would like me to dimension / create a CAD file of them for you.

As for the cortebert - no real preferences. The gold baton hands for a 6152 are fairly easy to get hold of for a Unitas (and are easy to resize), so would the cali style hands be a better option? Flame blued to an almost black colour would be awesome to see - beats any paint hands down!

C3 lume would be good for contemporaries, but for a vintage, you might find that a less intense glow is better. There are plenty of white / cream lumes (bergeon make one) that have less glow, and can be 'vintagised' to each individuals requirements. Alternatively, RC Tritec do an 'Old Radiomir' lume, which was supposedly colour matched to - you guessed it - an old Radiomir. The colour is suprisingly close to Pigeon s**t - the colour is horrible on most dials, but I've found that it is quite good on the hands.

Whatever you choose to do, this is a great project and thanks for bringing it to us.

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Thanks Tourby for this nice project :)

Like RMC say, the one like on unitas are easy to mod for cortebert so maybe not the bestest choice.

The curved one for angelus are the one i prefer, fat with short hour hand.

in what color ? gold or rose gold ? ; i will be in it for 3.

And a second hand with long pin will benice as it take a lot of time to do one by myself; i will be in it for 3.

For the lume color, maybe the bestest choice will be to sell it free of lume, as it can be easily to lume it for the one who will buy it , no? if tritec is too hard to use(but i think no) i know a french old horogical shop who sell vintage lume little yellowish, ready to use , and who need only 1 minute to relume hands.

But for me , the hands i realy want will the blued ones with long hour hand with middle bar for 3646 cortebert , for this one i will be ok to pay a big price, as theire are no good other alternative(even if the one on cali rep can be correctly blued by myself, the hour hand is definitely too short).

Maybe for this project, for you to be sure it will be ok after you will made it and you don't loose money like on the T60 crown, you will need to take only pre-order and paiement before starting the production ? it will be ok for me :)

Thanks again T for this wondefull project

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Nice project Tourby. Thanks.

I'm in in for a set of Cortebert hands.

Thanks Tourby for this nice project :)

Like RMC say, the one like on unitas are easy to mod for cortebert so maybe not the bestest choice.

The curved one for angelus are the one i prefer, fat with short hour hand.

in what color ? gold or rose gold ? ; i will be in it for 3.

And a second hand with long pin will benice as it take a lot of time to do one by myself; i will be in it for 3.

For the lume color, maybe the bestest choice will be to sell it free of lume, as it can be easily to lume it for the one who will buy it , no? if tritec is too hard to use(but i think no) i know a french old horogical shop who sell vintage lume little yellowish, ready to use , and who need only 1 minute to relume hands.

But for me , the hands i realy want will the blued ones with long hour hand with middle bar for 3646 cortebert , for this one i will be ok to pay a big price, as theire are no good other alternative(even if the one on cali rep can be correctly blued by myself, the hour hand is definitely too short).

Maybe for this project, for you to be sure it will be ok after you will made it and you don't loose money like on the T60 crown, you will need to take only pre-order and paiement before starting the production ? it will be ok for me :)

Thanks again T for this wondefull project

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Here's a range of images for discussion. Some of these are the same, but it highlights the number of variants (particularly on the Angelus based watches).

hands.jpg

I'd agree with Stephan that the flat hands on an Angelus appear to be more common (perhaps they were standard, and the curved clock hands were replacements?). The pointed Angelus hands come with some clocks, as do the dagger hands - so whilst these are ok, I'd assume they are replacements that aren't worth copying (although I have all types if you are interested!). My personal preference is for the flat hands with the short hour hand (#9) from an aesthetic perspective. The curved hands are amazing though, but I suspect would be many times more expensive than the flat hands - however, I'm sure you can advise on this point, T! I think the flat hands were yellow gold, and the curved came in yellow or rose gold (or blued). From what I've seen, the flat hands were far more common than the curved hands - on 6152, GPF2/56 and on 3646 models.

The second hand comes with and without a tail - I'd suggest making the second hand with a tail would be better, as individuals can trim the tail off if they decide (allowing for more options!). We all know that the 4th wheel pinion is flush to the main plate on the Angelus, so the tube length should reflect this + dial thickness + standoff.

The Cortebert hands seem to be 3 main types: gold with short point, gold with long point, or blued steel with a cross piece on the hour hand. The gold long point *seems* to be more common (fitting a 6152, 6154 and 3646, rather than just the 3646). I believe this to be yellow gold rather than rose (more likely brass with radium paint).

The images above are not an exhaustive list, and some a duplicates - but hopefully will provoke discussion, and allow us to focus on the particular styles.

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I vote for curved hands #5 and #18

we should build a mix of 5 and 18: curved hands, rose gold like #5 but in the length of #18

second hand like #1 with or #2 in rose (i am for #2)

we need 1 design for both Angelus & Cortebert. It is to expensive to build 2 different designs. The German factorys want a minimum order of 500 pieces... i could drop it to total 300... we could build 150 sets for Angelus and 150 sets for Cortebert... but not 300 - 500 each

I know that the curved hands are 3 times more expensive as the flat hands... but we need something SPECIAL... this flat hands in new condition would look like the fiddy hands... but we need a special design... which you can spot from first view... the hommage of an vintage Angelus & Cortebert are going for $2.000 - $5.000... we shouldn

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ok we have:

- gold hands

- curved

- thick

- with green lume C3 (everyone can modify it)

- small second hand for angelus with long pin

i would like the rose gold color... not yellow gold

anyone disagree?

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All seems to be ok, but gold or rose gold ?

i have the two type in gen, the one i prefer is the rose ones, more nice with a not too dark yellow lume, more white .

ok we have:

- gold hands

- curved

- thick

- with green lume C3 (everyone can modify it)

- small second hand for angelus with long pin

i would like the rose gold color... not yellow gold

anyone disagree?

Edited by Clint Eastwood
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I know guys are ready to spend $550 for Angelus hands... so a price range of $50 - $80 - max $100 is within the tolerance.

$550 you say? :p

IMG_0786.jpg

I think your idea is great, Tourby - keep homages as just that, and go for style! The curved hands will be brilliant - rose gold looks much more refined. I think the second hand would be great with the tail - you can always remove it, but can't add it back on!

As for dial thickness - unless you machine the case / install the dial into the bezel or some other 'trick', you're stuck with a maximum of about 0.8mm anyway (for an Angelus in Fiddy case). I could buy a bergeon hand sizer if you need exact dimensions - unless anybody else has access to accurate measuring equipment and a set of curved hands?

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