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GMT IIC vers. Full Ceramic Bezel / IHS


kuiksilver

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Dear RWGers,

I am sorry in advance if this thread is going to find yourself in total exasperation of finding another thread on this popular GMT.

I have got my GMT IIC full ceramic incorrect hand stack from PT back in November last year and have been wearing almost every day.

To be honest, I am greatly satisfied with it an I think it is a beautiful product....

Until I have read the review from Youpmelone:

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=89823

(thanks Youpmelone for putting a face to face review)

You just got that Rep which seems just great. Sturdy, beautiful, different, functioning and functional... Until somebody just points out that it is not quite as perfect as it should be (i.e as 1:1 as it may have seen at first)

I thought it wouldbe a GREAT idea if we can gather some how-to's/tuts between GMT IIC on how to mod it to make the beauty even more... perfect.

So I have noted few points which definitely needs modding (thanks to Youpmelone):

- the bracelets, crown HURT: yes you've read right, without a good sanding of the edge of the bracelet, the GMT IIC feels like a razor on your skin.

- The AR is unpresent: never dealt with AR since Chief is not in EU... does somebody know?

- The bezel numbers are way too gray. I was thinking of repaint it but which colour is the gen? a colour correspondance with famous paint brand for model kits such as Humbrol would be appreciated. Anyone?

- The SEL: a bit off, but how can we mod it?

- The usual Crown Guard shaving

- The colouring on the clasp: matt black? Gloss black? which one?

- the brushed effect on the bracelet: The links (except the mid part) is supposed to be brushed like the other sport models from Rollie. However on this one, the brushed effect seems not pronounced enough. Right... on your scotch bright??!! What' the best way?

If some of you are interested in helping me out in this project, contact me :) Let's gather as much info as we can !

Cheers for your time.

K.

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Tribal did a Sub SEL mod HERE. I'm not sure if it would work with the IIc, as I don't think you can do anything about repositioning the first link to be INSIDE the lughorns like the gen. You can shave the angle down I think...but the first link position I don't think can be modded.

IMG_3877.jpg

Somebody might have a solution...possibly even gen SELs.

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I still think overall it's one of the better reps. The bracelet issue is true for basically ALL Rlx reps (including MBW etc.) and without some work (including overall cleaning, oiling of the links and careful sanding of the sides) they feel fake. The CG on this one are much better out of the box than most of the RReps and I've also yet to see a RRep with perfect insert out of the box.

All in all, I guess what you are experiencing is a reality check - even if we want it badly, a 300$ item will not look and feel exactly like a 6.000$ item.

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- the bracelets, crown HURT: yes you've read right, without a good sanding of the edge of the bracelet, the GMT IIC feels like a razor on your skin.

- The AR is unpresent: never dealt with AR since Chief is not in EU... does somebody know?

- The bezel numbers are way too gray. I was thinking of repaint it but which colour is the gen? a colour correspondance with famous paint brand for model kits such as Humbrol would be appreciated. Anyone?

- The SEL: a bit off, but how can we mod it?

- The usual Crown Guard shaving

- The colouring on the clasp: matt black? Gloss black? which one?

- the brushed effect on the bracelet: The links (except the mid part) is supposed to be brushed like the other sport models from Rollie. However on this one, the brushed effect seems not pronounced enough. Right... on your scotch bright??!! What' the best way?

Bracelet

  • the easy way out would be getting a gen bracelet.
    have not seen them floating around so that is not an option.
    (i can check if they fit)

  • the second option could be to contact WM9 for his yachtmaster bracelet (ex clasp) on the rep IIc bracelet, and gen endlinks
    (does anyone know if WM9 endlinks would fit?)

  • third option, the bracelet needs work, and a lot,
    sanding and tightening the midlinks. I think the endinks couls be sanded down a bit but this would not fix the first link issue.

Crownguards

seem fine to me.

Bezel numbers color

need a change, a lasting color..

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The bracelet needs sanding and oiling; this will markedly improve its feel.

Here:

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=86133

there is a tutorial about filiing the edges (just in case you didn't already know it).

I used a simple sheet of fine-grained (800 grit) sandpaper, then I re-polished the midlinks.

For oiling the bracelet, if you can bear the ironical smiles of the druggist, vaseline is IMHO the best solution, since it's colourless, odourless and viscous. The bracelet won't need an aggressive washing after the soak, and the effect will last longer.

Anyway, the bracelet cannot exactly feel as a gen because in the gen bracelet there are bushings interposed between the link housing and the pin. It seems that the WM9 YM bracelet is crafted in this way

As regards the AR treatment on the loupe, I think that there is no solution; read this:

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=88304

The engraving on the clasp can be coloured, but since the grooves aren't clean or deep, the result won't be satisfying; this:

clasp1lb0.jpg

clasp2at3.jpg

is the best result I have achieved.

The engraving on the clasp od the DSSD is by far better than this; I asked PT for a DSSD as spare part, and he replied that the size is different.

The colour of the numbers on the bezel is no concern of the "Ultimate" version, in my opinion; it can be an issue regarding the "sandiwich" bezel insert. On the PT website there is a comparative picture, and the bezels look quite similar.

Hope it helps

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Great !

That's some information. I think it would be useful if I can post some pictures of the Full Ceramic version. There is one thing which is sure, the ceramic version bezel number iis a LOT darker than the v1.0, non full ceramic version.

Keep you posted!

If anyone has any idea of how to swap the cyclops, let us know !

Cheers.

K.

{EDIT} BTW I have bought my GMT IIC from PT. Swiss ETA ICHS. Full Ceramic.

Edited by kuiksilver
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Great !

That's some information. I think it would be useful if I can post some pictures of the Full Ceramic version. There is one thing which is sure, the ceramic version bezel number iis a LOT darker than the v1.0, non full ceramic version.

Keep you posted!

If anyone has any idea of how to swap the cyclops, let us know !

Cheers.

K.

Bro, I can tell you how to remove a cyclops no problem. Reattaching one would be a different matter ;) (well, I know the principle, but not precisely which kind of glue is used)

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It's a weird watch. I like to wear it, but somehow it doesn't seem to "grab" me like the classic GMT.

Nice to have one in your collection though... very nice replication.

1.jpg

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It's a weird watch. I like to wear it, but somehow it doesn't seem to "grab" me like the classic GMT.

Nice to have one in your collection though... very nice replication.

1.jpg

Crazy suggestion, but try swapping the bracelet for a regular oyster bracelet (if it'll fit :lol: ) I think it'll make quite a difference for the better, and draw less attention away from the watch head :)

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Tribal did a Sub SEL mod HERE. I'm not sure if it would work with the IIc, as I don't think you can do anything about repositioning the first link to be INSIDE the lughorns like the gen. You can shave the angle down I think...but the first link position I don't think can be modded.

IMG_3877.jpg

Somebody might have a solution...possibly even gen SELs.

I am thinking that maybe, this can be fix with another bracelet maybe WM9 submariner take the endlinks and polish the middle link to a mirror finish them swap it.

Anyone have a bracelet laying around :p

Edited by cib0rgman
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Bro, I can tell you how to remove a cyclops no problem. Reattaching one would be a different matter ;) (well, I know the principle, but not precisely which kind of glue is used)

That is not a big problem - there is special clear glue for this (glas) purpose which hardens under UV light. You can get it from the ususal (Ofrei / Cousins) or at your local Home Depot. If you don't have a UV lamp, direkt sunlight and patience will do...

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That is not a big problem - there is special clear glue for this (glas) purpose which hardens under UV light. You can get it from the ususal (Ofrei / Cousins) or at your local Home Depot. If you don't have a UV lamp, direkt sunlight and patience will do...

Ah, I didn't realize it was that easy to get hold of :) I remember reading that it wasn't a good idea to use cyanoacrylate for a dial fix, and then re-case the watch almost immediately after, as the fumes from the glue would condense on the inside of the crystal :lol:

I've removed cyclopses before, but never wanted to re-install one, so I'd never needed to know 'Phase Two' of the procedure :D

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